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So, I have started my journey into the world of Saab! As a bit of background, I'm a commercial/instrument pilot that works in aviation engineering at Garmin, so I'm completely aircraft obsessed. Because of that, I quickly noticed aviation influences when I started looking into Saabs, and fell in love with the brand. I mean, what other car has (the equivalent of) a Master Caution/Master Warning system with a CAS stack! Anywho, here's my journey so far:
After looking at a couple of Saabs that would fit firmly into the category of "wow, this could have been a nice car if some idiots hadn't screwed it up by not knowing how to work on a car, but now it MIGHT be worth its scrap value", I happened upon a 2001 9-5 2.3t sedan with 173k miles and only 2 owners: a Saab dealer that used it for a demo/loaner car (all option/accessory boxes checked), and a Saab enthusiast who bought it with 95k miles on it. He obviously took care of it, as he had all of the service records and receipts that the car ever had. The body is in pretty great shape, and the interior is practically flawless. Here are some of the pictures from the Craigslist post:
He also listed this for the recent service history:
The only issue was that the oil light had come on recently. You already know where I'm going with this (and I had a pretty good idea, too, since I had been doing my research). I was hopeful that it was just a clogged strainer. He had the sump dropped in 2015, and was changing the oil every 3k miles, but he was using semi synthetic instead of fully synthetic, and, hey, you never know. I figured best case clogged strainer, not so good case bad oil pump, worse case worn main crank bearings, worst case spun bearings and all around destruction.
I gave it a good inspection and took it for a test drive. Everything seemed pretty good, and engine sounded smooth, so my worst fears were assuaged. The check oil light did come on after the engine had fully heated up and I had it at idle, though. I decided to take the gamble, and paid the owner $1500 for it. He gave me all of the paperwork, an extra intake manifold and DIC from one of his friends, a bunch of leftover silicone vacuum line, and some other assorted parts that he had bought for it.
I fixed a couple minor issues: a couple of vac leaks (the hard line for brake booster popped out of the intake and cracked near a check valve: popped the line back in and fixed the break with JB weld), replaced the BPV (Bosch unit came apart at the cap), replaced burned out lights in the SID.
Now, to the real beginning of the adventure: the engine. It seemed to be running great, but I still wanted to diagnose the check oil light. I gathered tools and supplies, and went at it. First step was to measure the oil pressure. I didn't have a ported banjo bolt to test at the turbo oil supply like recommended in the WIS, so I picked up an oil filter sandwich adapter plate. I plan to install an oil pressure gauge and possibly an oil temp gauge later, so the plate made sense to me. With the plate installed and my pressure gauge hooked up, I ran the numbers:
Cold
Idle: 38 psi
2000 rpm: ~67 psi
Warm
Idle: 19 psi
2000rpm: 40 psi
Hmm... those were surprisingly normal? At this point, I'm suspecting a bad pressure switch, so I order a replacement.
(continued in next post...)
After looking at a couple of Saabs that would fit firmly into the category of "wow, this could have been a nice car if some idiots hadn't screwed it up by not knowing how to work on a car, but now it MIGHT be worth its scrap value", I happened upon a 2001 9-5 2.3t sedan with 173k miles and only 2 owners: a Saab dealer that used it for a demo/loaner car (all option/accessory boxes checked), and a Saab enthusiast who bought it with 95k miles on it. He obviously took care of it, as he had all of the service records and receipts that the car ever had. The body is in pretty great shape, and the interior is practically flawless. Here are some of the pictures from the Craigslist post:
He also listed this for the recent service history:
- New Alternator - 2014
- Oil sump pan dropped and cleaned - 2014
- Oil trap PVC update - 2014
- New Turbo - 2015
- New Water Pump - 2013
- New Serpentine Belt Tensioner - 2013
- New Value Cover Gasket - 2015
- New Front Tires - 2015
- Rear Tires - 2012
- Oil Changes every 3000 miles
- Transmission Flushed, 2009/2011/2013/2016 (about every 24,000)
- spark plugs replaced yearly
The only issue was that the oil light had come on recently. You already know where I'm going with this (and I had a pretty good idea, too, since I had been doing my research). I was hopeful that it was just a clogged strainer. He had the sump dropped in 2015, and was changing the oil every 3k miles, but he was using semi synthetic instead of fully synthetic, and, hey, you never know. I figured best case clogged strainer, not so good case bad oil pump, worse case worn main crank bearings, worst case spun bearings and all around destruction.
I gave it a good inspection and took it for a test drive. Everything seemed pretty good, and engine sounded smooth, so my worst fears were assuaged. The check oil light did come on after the engine had fully heated up and I had it at idle, though. I decided to take the gamble, and paid the owner $1500 for it. He gave me all of the paperwork, an extra intake manifold and DIC from one of his friends, a bunch of leftover silicone vacuum line, and some other assorted parts that he had bought for it.
I fixed a couple minor issues: a couple of vac leaks (the hard line for brake booster popped out of the intake and cracked near a check valve: popped the line back in and fixed the break with JB weld), replaced the BPV (Bosch unit came apart at the cap), replaced burned out lights in the SID.
Now, to the real beginning of the adventure: the engine. It seemed to be running great, but I still wanted to diagnose the check oil light. I gathered tools and supplies, and went at it. First step was to measure the oil pressure. I didn't have a ported banjo bolt to test at the turbo oil supply like recommended in the WIS, so I picked up an oil filter sandwich adapter plate. I plan to install an oil pressure gauge and possibly an oil temp gauge later, so the plate made sense to me. With the plate installed and my pressure gauge hooked up, I ran the numbers:
Cold
Idle: 38 psi
2000 rpm: ~67 psi
Warm
Idle: 19 psi
2000rpm: 40 psi
Hmm... those were surprisingly normal? At this point, I'm suspecting a bad pressure switch, so I order a replacement.
(continued in next post...)