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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bad enough my pretty little Saab had to deal with the disgrace of a mid-intersection collision. Now it has to suffer the humilitaion of being trashy.

Hood won't align right. Turbo isn't boosting and now after driving it for a 10 mile trip I find I can't get into 5th gear. :cry: If I push into the shifter I can get it to grind 5th but it won't go in. Reverse works. My first thought was that everything got torqued a bit to the left in the collision but I don't know...the car tracks straight and stays straight if I stand on the brakes. How small a shift in alignment would it take to lose 5th?

I may just have to ghetto it up while keeping my eyes open for a new one :(
 

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Bad enough my pretty little Saab had to deal with the disgrace of a mid-intersection collision. Now it has to suffer the humilitaion of being trashy.

Hood won't align right. Turbo isn't boosting and now after driving it for a 10 mile trip I find I can't get into 5th gear. :cry: If I push into the shifter I can get it to grind 5th but it won't go in. Reverse works. My first thought was that everything got torqued a bit to the left in the collision but I don't know...the car tracks straight and stays straight if I stand on the brakes. How small a shift in alignment would it take to lose 5th?

I may just have to ghetto it up while keeping my eyes open for a new one :(
Have you checked your linkage? Maybe the coupling was broken during the collision.
 

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Does lifting the reverse lockout collar help?

Check right side motor mount

Agree linkage could have been damaged, do re adjustment procedure.

ps did you get waste gate arm moving>?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Does lifting the reverse lockout collar help?

Check right side motor mount

Agree linkage could have been damaged, do re adjustment procedure.

ps did you get waste gate arm moving>?
This is beyond frustrating. I did try lifting the reverse lock-collar but it doesn't change things. It wants to go into 5th but just won't and I don't want to keep trying to jam it in there in anger and ruin the transmission. I'll block out some time tomorrow pm and see if I can get underneath to look at the linkage.

On the boost issue, I mashed the skinny pedal a few times today to get it to move off the whit and it wanted so badly to get into yellow but woudn't. I'm thinking you were right and it's either a compromised boot (there's an audible high pitched whine at startup) or the APC solenoid is gone. The wastegate arm did move the same as the spare I have on the shelf.

And just to make a perfect ending for a perfect day, when I went out this evening the front tire was flat :evil:
 

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Whats the state of the front gearbox mount? Mine had trouble with 5th after filling the mount with silicone once it squished a bit the trouble seemed to go away. So shift allignment would seem to be pretty important.
 

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This is beyond frustrating. I did try lifting the reverse lock-collar but it doesn't change things. It wants to go into 5th but just won't and I don't want to keep trying to jam it in there in anger and ruin the transmission. I'll block out some time tomorrow pm and see if I can get underneath to look at the linkage.

On the boost issue, I mashed the skinny pedal a few times today to get it to move off the whit and it wanted so badly to get into yellow but woudn't. I'm thinking you were right and it's either a compromised boot (there's an audible high pitched whine at startup) or the APC solenoid is gone. The wastegate arm did move the same as the spare I have on the shelf.

And just to make a perfect ending for a perfect day, when I went out this evening the front tire was flat :evil:
If you'd tested the APC solenoid like I suggested you would know whether it's gone or not. Turn the ignition on and tap the knock sensor with a screwdriver gently, it should chatter. It's unlikely to be broken unless its physically damaged or the 3 rubber lines are damageed (did you check these carefully?). The wastegate sets base boost, the rest is APC.


If the waste gate arm moves (with spring tension) freely then nothing else can cause 0 boost EXCEPT
- damaged vacuum line to boost gauge
- damaged intake rubbers between turbo and intake manifold or major leak under boost between turbo and manifold.
 

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If the waste gate arm moves (with spring tension) freely then nothing else can cause 0 boost EXCEPT
- damaged vacuum line to boost gauge
- damaged intake rubbers between turbo and intake manifold or major leak under boost between turbo and manifold.
I concur. (for what that's worth...) ;)
 

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The 90 degree elbow that fits directly onto the turbo is split...bottom side ..
You cant get your hand under to feel it ... You cant see it ... but it will open the minute you have positive pressure ...

Re do gearbox alignment .. then if its still no good .. Can you get it thru the gate when car is off and stationery? ... If the answer is YES .. but still grinds on the road ... then look at front engine mount .
 

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The 90 degree elbow that fits directly onto the turbo is split...bottom side ..
You cant get your hand under to feel it ... You cant see it ... but it will open the minute you have positive pressure ...

Re do gearbox alignment .. then if its still no good .. Can you get it thru the gate when car is off and stationery? ... If the answer is YES .. but still grinds on the road ... then look at front engine mount .
I thought right, but front makes more sense as OP can't get it forward into 5th, they can move it right though - which would normally not be possible with a badly damaged right mount, so good pick up there!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Welp I think I'm going to have to start over...sucks but I can't think of another way that would be easier. This weekend I'll pull the radiator and check to see if the front mount is compromised in any way. Is there a visual way to tell or do I just lift the front (back) of the engine and see if it shifts into 5th?

I have a ******* fix in mind for the hood and I'll check the turbo boots as well...though I don't see a 90* elbow on the turbo.

Are you talking the one from the air filter tubing to the turbo or the boot that comes off of it and feeds the piping to the ic? Are these repairable with something or is it a replacement only?
 

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sucks but I can't think of another way that would be easier.


This weekend I'll pull the radiator and check to see if the front mount is compromised in any way. Is there a visual way to tell or do I just lift the front (back) of the engine and see if it shifts into 5th?

are you talking the one from the air filter tubing to the turbo or the boot that comes off of it and feeds the piping to the ic? Are these repairable with something or is it a replacement only?
I can .... Get under the car and check the alignment as suggested ...

I suspect that if your mount was damaged as a result of the impact ... then it would have fractured the rubber and you loose the fluid ... Meaning you would have had a very evident MESS around the mount ...You would have seen this ..

Check the alignment .. then try it ..try it dry the first time ( pretend your a 10 year old playing in dads car ... make the vroom vroom noises and change gears ... ) ... that is Don't have the car running .. if you get it that way .. but still have an issue in the road .. then it may well be your mount (front)

Then you can go to plan B .. Pull radiator whatever .

Boost issue ...
Sorry I did say 90 degree .. half asleep ... 45 degree Eeuroparts call it the Turbo inlet hose .. its the one the by pass valve comes off
http://eeuroparts.com/Parts/PartDetail.php?partCode=7528995&partName=Turbo+inlet+hose

You can try all sorts of bodge repairs on these ... Believe me .. I have ..
The repair that eliminated the split ? New
 

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that 45 degree hose can't open up under boost though can it ?
 

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that 45 degree hose can't open up under boost though can it ?
You are absolutely correct s900 , it an intake , it isnt exposed to boost ...

IT CANT OPEN UP ON BOOST ... IT simply cant

I will let a guru explain the physics ..or shoot me down .. But I do know that a split one of these on my aero gave very similar symptoms to what Scantar describes ... AND OPEN UP IT DID ... well if didn't open up and effect the turbos ability to boost ... replacing it sure was a placebo effect and I stopped looking ~

I am going to claim Scantars signature here ... as awarded by Peva :lol:
 

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As far as your shifter alignment, you have three areas of adjustment. Engine mounts, coupling, and the shifter body. Things affecting alignment will be bad or collapsed mounts, coupler misalignment, shift lever screws loose in body, and the worn rubber and teflon bushing in the front of the shifter body (if it is). Loosening the three nuts that hold the shifter body to the floor will allow the front of the body to move off center roughly 3/8-1/2 inch either left or right. This should be the last step if all other items are correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Bentley's is showing an "alignment tool" to make the adjustment...is this necessary? Surely these are made of unobtanium...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Don't take my name in vain. I haven't said a word on this. :cheesy:
That's right...no welfare state here. You have to earn it!

:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Bentley's is showing an "alignment tool" to make the adjustment...is this necessary? Surely these are made of unobtanium...

:confused: anyone??
 

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If by unobtanium you mean the factory tool, yes. But a piece of 3/16 (5mm?) rod stock bent to a shape similar to the Bentley illustration works great. I've also used a long allen wrench to perform the same task. The whole purpose on the 86 and later transmissions is to keep the transmission in 3rd for the alignment, and another piece of rod can be used for the alignment hole in the front of the shifter body. Old #2 phillips (pre 1985 it seems) are also the right diameter. All my later ones are too wide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If by unobtanium you mean the factory tool, yes. But a piece of 3/16 (5mm?) rod stock bent to a shape similar to the Bentley illustration works great. I've also used a long allen wrench to perform the same task. The whole purpose on the 86 and later transmissions is to keep the transmission in 3rd for the alignment, and another piece of rod can be used for the alignment hole in the front of the shifter body. Old #2 phillips (pre 1985 it seems) are also the right diameter. All my later ones are too wide.
Yep, that's exactly what I meant. Thanks...that helps a lot! Trying to do some CSI thinking on this to try and recreate the transmission events. On impact I think I was in 2nd gear and the impact threw me into neutral. Is it possible that the shift rod slipped backward on impact? When I check the alignment hole in 3rd gear it seems to be about 4mm or so off (hole 4mm toward the back of the car). Does it make sense that that small a variance would prevent shifting into 5th?
 
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