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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI all - It seems I've been bitten by the TWICE Unit problem.

During a bad rainstorm I noticed the "Fasten Seatbelt" light illuminated while driving for no reason. I decided to investigate and found that clogged drains had caused water in the driver side and rear driver side to dampen the carpet.

I didn't have any other problems with the car, but decided to remove the drivers seat and investigate the TWICE unit for water damage before things go worse. It did not appear to have gotten wet on the surface.

I decided to open the TWICE unit once removed and inspect for moisture; I found several drops of condensation inside the case and slight water residue in a few places on the circuit board. Using electronics contact cleaner, I sprayed down those areas and it seemed to do the trick.

Hoping the issue was solved, I reinstalled the TWICE Unit into the car. It cranked over, started for a few seconds, then died. I tried again but all it would do is crank over. I disconnected and reconnected the battery hoping this would work - it did crank over, start, then stalled out. I did a scan for trouble codes and came up with P1460 (immobilizer active).

Does this mean my TWICE Unit is fried? When disconnecting and reinstalling the same TWICE Unit after cleaning, do I need to have anything reprogrammed?

I appreciate any advice on this one!!
 

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It may be failing or it may still be wet.
Mine was underwater. I took it out, washed the mud out with distilled water, let dry, sprayed with WD40 then let it dry even more in front of fan, then I put it in a bag of rice for about 2 days. Works fine now.
No programming needed should just plug and play with the same car it came from.
Putting power to it while wet can damage it.
If you have time try WD40 (WD= water displacement) and rice.
 

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Since you disconnected the TWICE; you will need a Tech II for the TWICE to read the immobilizer code. If the TWICE can't read the immobilizer it will cut the fuel flow; this is why the car won't stay started. Disconnect the immobilizer maybe it might stay started, but to get the fuel flowing you will need a Tech II to reprogram the TWICE to the immobilizer.
 

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Since you disconnected the TWICE; you will need a Tech II for the TWICE to read the immobilizer code. If the TWICE can't read the immobilizer it will cut the fuel flow; this is why the car won't stay started. Disconnect the immobilizer maybe it might stay started, but to get the fuel flowing you will need a Tech II to reprogram the TWICE to the immobilizer.
After I flooded mine, I swapped it out with one from another 9-5 and it did not work but it did work when I put it back into original car. Same with the TWICE that was underwater. After it dried, it simply worked without TechII.
mine were 00 and 01 9-5s.
When a key is not accepted it should show up on the SID? shouldnt it?.
Also the TWICE plug is really hard to fully clamp while under seat.
Make sure its clamped fully.
Make sure battery is disconnected while hooking it up.
Worst case you lost the programming and would need techII if not new TWICE.
TWICE units are less expensive in UK on ebay than US ebay. (including shipping)
 

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The deal is; when you're working with the TWICE and if you were programming new keys; the trick is not to put the key in and turn the ignition before you re-connect the battery; if you do that you will need the TECH II. In this case the OP got the immobilizer so the alarm button may have been pressed and the TWICE can’t read the immobilizer, but since these cars have several immobilizes the Tech II might be the only option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I appreciate the information you guys have provided.

To give a little more detail -
I did not disconnect the battery before removing the TWICE Unit. The TWICE Unit didn't appear damp, but I opened it up to be sure. I used circuit board cleaner and compressed air to clean and dry it. The circuit board didn't have any visual signs of damage.

Saaber95er - If I didn't push any buttons or try to start the car without the TWICE module in, would it still require reprogramming with a Tech II since all the parts are original to the car (TWICE and keys)? I did use the key manually to open the trunk and unlock the driver door, but not the remote button. Does that make a difference or would that be enough to trigger the immobilizer and require reprogramming?

I imagine worse case would be that the TWICE is damaged and that is why it is not allowing the car to start. Is there any way to tell if the TWICE is good without a Tech II?

I called a couple places today and no luck finding someone with a Saab Tech II. I even posted on craigslist hoping I'd find someone with the equipment wanting to earn a few bucks to help troubleshoot.

Any advice on my options? Looks like towing it to the dealer to get it read with a Tech II might be the only path forward. I imagine they'll tell me the TWICE unit is bad and want to replace it for $1500. I have located a used unit, but I'm not sure if I could find someone to go through the process of reprogramming it - dealer won't do it.

Thanks again for your help! I'm in Virginia Beach - if you know anyone with a Saab Tech II near me I would appreciate the info! I certainly would pay them for their time and use of their Tech II.
 

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From what I know if you remove the TWICE from your car it's a tossup when you plug it back in, in mostly all cases you need the Tech II some have gotten lucky and the TWICE worked. When you removed the TWICE the battery should've been disconnected first. That $u(k$ that you don't have a tech II available nearby; here’s a list of shops in the VA area if one’s near you give them a call and see what they can do for you; some shops may come to you.


Service Listings: VA

Accurate Automotive
222 South King Street
Leesburg
(703) 443-0136

Ashburn European Service Center
45746 Woodland Rd
Dulles
(703) 406 4000
[email protected]

Atlantic Autowerks, Ltd.
5461 Virginia Beach Blvd. suite #101
Virginia Beach
757-466-SAAB(7222)
[email protected]
www.Atlanticautowerks.com

Auto Scandia
134 Spring Street
Herndon
(703) 318-7222

Barry's Performance Import
623 Cromwell Avenue
Norfolk
(757) 623-6568

Best Saab Mechanic in Hampton Roads area, and the ONLY mech who touches my
Saab! Completely knowledgeable about Saabs, and extremely price competitive.
Submitted by: Ed Dillingham

Barry (owner) and Dennis (Service Manager) went out of their
way to help us when we became stranded on our vacation, 1,100 miles from
home. They guided us right to their door and, within 1-1/2 hours had
sent us on our way again, having diagnosed and repaired our 9000 that
began hesitating, losing power and blowing black smoke. Even though we
were a "captive audience" they treated us as though we were customers of
long standing. I can not recommend them highly enough.
Submitted By: David Chittim

Classic Transit
4897 Valley Pike
Stephens City
(540) 869-1868

Courthouse Imports
2388 Princess Anne RD
VA Beach
(757) 563 0319

Eurasian Service Center
8501-2B Tyco Road
Tysons Corner
(703) 893-3045

European Motors Inc.
141 Harpersville Road
Newport News
(757) 599-3331

Franco Coleman has the best Saab / Volvo repair shop I have ever known. They
are quick, efficient, and know their vehicles inside and out. I guess this is
no surprise as Franco started working on these cars in Europe some fifty years
ago and started European Motors probably 35 years ago. My wife and I have been
married for 14 years and have always had a Volvo or Saab. Although I am a good
mechanic and do my own work most of the time, I rely on Franco to take care of
the big stuff. He just replaced the head gasket on our '88 900 turbo with a one
day turn around. He also changed the engine and gearbox oil, topped off the
other fluids, added a bit of charge to the AC, and repaired a minor glitch in
the fuel injection system; all for no additional charges! Plus he is just a flat
nice guy and very, very honest. If your car is not worth fixing, he is very up
front and will check out a used cars you are considering free of charge.
Submitted by G.G. Sprock

Hawthorne Imports
9001 W. Broad St
Richmond
(804) 217-6330

International Motors
20166 Ashgrove Ct
Dulles
(703) 406-4000

Motor Town Auto Sales
3750 Slate Creek Road
Grundy
(276) 935-5995

Saab Buddies
125 Main St
Brodnax,
(434) 426-1622
www.moneytrapwallet.com
[email protected]

We only service Saab's 40 years experience on Saabs. No voice mail, you must
talk to me. Very low over head. I rebuild all Saab transmissions.
Submitted by Buddy Bibb

Saab of Richmond
9177 W. Broad St.
Richmond
(804) 346-4000
www.amoorecadillac.com

Only Saab dealer in Richmond,VA Hawthorne Imports no longer in Business.
I'm The service writer at Saab Of Richmond. Been service Saabs soley
for 16 years. Been Known at Saabnet.com as BSD(Big Saab Dude). Thanks!!!
Submitted by Pete Millar(BSD)

Saabtech,llc
200 North 21st street
Richmond
804-643-3030
[email protected]
www.saabtechllc.com

S&S Auto
5009 Lee Hwy
Warrenton
(540) 349-2744

S&S redefines service in a time where good customer service is a hard thing
to find anywhere especially at a car repair shop. The staff goes out of its
way to provide fast courteous service. A free loaner is available and they
are very flexible in scheduling for those of us with busy lifestyles. They
specialize in just Saabs. They also sell used Saabs and provide excellent
after the sale support. I have purchased 4 vehicles from them and have all of
my Saabs serviced there. They also due restorations on classic and vintage
Saabs. Call and ask for Rick, Ken or Jack.
Submitted by Bill Cranor

Swedish Import Service
3160-A Spring Street
Fairfax
703 591 2264

Specializing in Saab and Volvo service. These people are very customer
oriented and the quality of work is second to none. Check their rating on
Checkbook.org if you don't believe me.

Swedish Motor Cars
551 N. Washington St. (Rt. 29 & I-66)
Falls Church
(703) 237-0988

Swedish Motor Cars will take good care of you and your Saab. Recently, my
driver's side window came off of the rollers and refused to be rolled up.
I had to drive around (in winter) with an open window. Anyway, I explained
what happened on the phone and the person on the phone (Nevin) said it was
one of two things, but was most likely the least expensive of the two. He
was right and the car was fixed same day. They also did a courtesy check of
the car and informed me of some work that would be needed in the future, but
that we can just keep an eye on it for now.

And they had a nice surprise for me when I picked up the car... a 10% discount
for new customers... and they fixed a broken driver's side door handle (inside)
for free. I hadn't told them about it.
Submitted by Ken Graham

Swedish Specialists
8249-C Backlick Rd
Lorton
(703) 550-7777

Twin Star Saab
1927 Westmoreland Street
Richmond
(804) 353-9125

Submitted by Sarah Caroon Mitchell

Valley Saab
2743 Franklin Road SW
Roanoke
540-344-9274
www.valley-saab.com

I appreciate the information you guys have provided.

To give a little more detail -
I did not disconnect the battery before removing the TWICE Unit. The TWICE Unit didn't appear damp, but I opened it up to be sure. I used circuit board cleaner and compressed air to clean and dry it. The circuit board didn't have any visual signs of damage.

Saaber95er - If I didn't push any buttons or try to start the car without the TWICE module in, would it still require reprogramming with a Tech II since all the parts are original to the car (TWICE and keys)? I did use the key manually to open the trunk and unlock the driver door, but not the remote button. Does that make a difference or would that be enough to trigger the immobilizer and require reprogramming?

I imagine worse case would be that the TWICE is damaged and that is why it is not allowing the car to start. Is there any way to tell if the TWICE is good without a Tech II?

I called a couple places today and no luck finding someone with a Saab Tech II. I even posted on craigslist hoping I'd find someone with the equipment wanting to earn a few bucks to help troubleshoot.

Any advice on my options? Looks like towing it to the dealer to get it read with a Tech II might be the only path forward. I imagine they'll tell me the TWICE unit is bad and want to replace it for $1500. I have located a used unit, but I'm not sure if I could find someone to go through the process of reprogramming it - dealer won't do it.

Thanks again for your help! I'm in Virginia Beach - if you know anyone with a Saab Tech II near me I would appreciate the info! I certainly would pay them for their time and use of their Tech II.

OR, the other alternative if its cost effective to paying towing and the cost of the dealer doing the job; you can go this route this way you will find out if the TWICE is still good. I know you didn’t lose the key but it’s an option.

http://www.lostsaabkeys.com
 

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Also, its a tech II that is needed. which is a GM product.
Any tech II should be able to do the programming, I think it is part of the basic software. There is additional software for Saabs and other specific cars of GM. But I think any tech II would do it. You can check Chevy and or GM mechanics in addition to the huge list from Saaber.
When I did mine battery was not connected, with power to the unit I can easily see how its programming can get lost.
 

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First off the car is driven by my 16 year old daughter, she just says it died. The remote didn't work, the key was key not accepted. The GM dealer said no problem just needs reprogramming, I had the car towed there 2 days later they call Bad News, the Tech ll will not read the system, they can't do anything, so I had it towed back home.
I found that it seemed like the car was in the run condition, the door mounted trunk release would not work ,but the windows and wipers were powered and the radio would shut off (this is with the key removed and the cylinder popped up) So hmm something spilled into the ignition switch?? I put a hair dryer over the key cylinder and left it heating for an hour or more. Now the wipers and windows are only powered with the key in the run position, but still getting Key Not Accepted, and no alarm led flashing when the key is removed. Pulled out the start relay and put in a push button switch on the relay contacts and the engine will now turn over and while turning over the fuel pump is on (+12v at fuse 19 both sides) had the kid turn the key while I checked the fuel line Schrader type valve, fuel shot out of it, so there is fuel going to the rail. But it will not start, tried with gas pedal depressed a bit and floored.
The seat belt lights come on, but the alarm leds don't come on and the door locks don't work. I just want to run the car using a push button to by pass the immobilizer and the alarm system, I don't care about the remotes . (I have lost faith in the immobilizer and alarm system) and who is going to steal it anyway
Any info is appreciated
 

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Not sure if you meant to post this here? Or you meant to start a new thread?

If something was spilled in the ignition you probably shorted out the immobilizer antenna; remove the antenna and check/clean the connections and see if it will work, or just replace the antenna with one from another car. The immobilization is fine but the antenna is not reading the key also check the fuses and relays to see if any blew; especially the MAXI fuses under the hood behind the fuse box.





First off the car is driven by my 16 year old daughter, she just says it died. The remote didn't work, the key was key not accepted. The GM dealer said no problem just needs reprogramming, I had the car towed there 2 days later they call Bad News, the Tech ll will not read the system, they can't do anything, so I had it towed back home.
I found that it seemed like the car was in the run condition, the door mounted trunk release would not work ,but the windows and wipers were powered and the radio would shut off (this is with the key removed and the cylinder popped up) So hmm something spilled into the ignition switch?? I put a hair dryer over the key cylinder and left it heating for an hour or more. Now the wipers and windows are only powered with the key in the run position, but still getting Key Not Accepted, and no alarm led flashing when the key is removed. Pulled out the start relay and put in a push button switch on the relay contacts and the engine will now turn over and while turning over the fuel pump is on (+12v at fuse 19 both sides) had the kid turn the key while I checked the fuel line Schrader type valve, fuel shot out of it, so there is fuel going to the rail. But it will not start, tried with gas pedal depressed a bit and floored.
The seat belt lights come on, but the alarm leds don't come on and the door locks don't work. I just want to run the car using a push button to by pass the immobilizer and the alarm system, I don't care about the remotes . (I have lost faith in the immobilizer and alarm system) and who is going to steal it anyway
Any info is appreciated
 

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Saab CD says to try;
Try turning the ignition to the on position and then pressing the unlock button on the key while in the ignition and then turning it to start.

I am not sure if you hold it in unlock or if you just press unlock and look at SID to see if message goes away or changes. I am replacing my alternator, (bottom bolt stripped so it is taking some time) and while listening to my iTunes somehow one of my Saab CDs must have been downloaded to my computer and then somehow onto iTunes and then into 30-90 second segments as commercials and just heard this one yesterday.

I cant see how spilling something into ignition could wreck TWICE, people leave their sunroofs open all the time in areas with acid rain.
Since the cup holders dont work my cup sits nicely between the shifter, the ignition and the E-brake.

I have not heard of anyone bypassing the TWICE as of yet, it would be great if someone has...
Check under drivers seat to see if it is wet which would make it fail...did dealer give any indication of why it failed or did they remove it or look at it?

Replacements are available used on ebay and other parts stores,
I found ebay UK had them real cheap including shipping to US, then you would need it programmed. Either dealer or someone with tech II (dealer higher cost)

Check immobilizer 1st.
and how good is dealer on Saabs?
Give an update, are you trying to bypass the TWICE?
Does anyone know if it can be done?
 

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This procedure will start the car; (turn key to start position, press and hold the unlock button while starting) the car should start; it won't reset anything; if the car does start then you will need a Tech 2 to reprogram the key and immobilizer; or you can continue to press the remote every time you start the car

Saab CD says to try;
Try turning the ignition to the on position and then pressing the unlock button on the key while in the ignition and then turning it to start.

I am not sure if you hold it in unlock or if you just press unlock and look at SID to see if message goes away or changes. I am replacing my alternator, (bottom bolt stripped so it is taking some time) and while listening to my iTunes somehow one of my Saab CDs must have been downloaded to my computer and then somehow onto iTunes and then into 30-90 second segments as commercials and just heard this one yesterday.

The Twice is not the problem; it's the signal to the immobilizer the Twice is not getting the signal from the key; so check the antenna first before you remove the seat to check the Twice. If you think the Twice got wet; just stick your hand under the seat to check if the carpet is wet.

I cant see how spilling something into ignition could wreck TWICE, people leave their sunroofs open all the time in areas with acid rain.
Since the cup holders dont work my cup sits nicely between the shifter, the ignition and the E-brake.

I have not heard of anyone bypassing the TWICE as of yet, it would be great if someone has...
Check under drivers seat to see if it is wet which would make it fail...did dealer give any indication of why it failed or did they remove it or look at it?

Replacements are available used on ebay and other parts stores,
I found ebay UK had them real cheap including shipping to US, then you would need it programmed. Either dealer or someone with tech II (dealer higher cost)

Check immobilizer 1st.
and how good is dealer on Saabs?
Give an update, are you trying to bypass the TWICE?
Does anyone know if it can be done?
 

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This procedure will start the car; (turn key to start position, press and hold the unlock button while starting) the car should start; it won't reset anything; if the car does start then you will need a Tech 2 to reprogram the key and immobilizer; or you can continue to press the remote every time you start the car
Maybe I should have put, check Immobilizer 1st, higher up in my post, but I think OP just wants to press a button to bypass everything. (I think?)
I do not know how well or how long this procedure using the unlock button would work or if it bypasses the immobilizer or what it is bypassing.
I do wonder why the dealer would not have told him...
 

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If you are looking for a replacement twice unit I have one for sale in the classifieds with 2 remote keys and ignition cylinder.
 

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The procedure will work as long as you want to use it; when you press the alarm unlock on the remote it bypasses the antenna and sends the signal directly to the immobilizer/twice/alarm system, allowing to bypass the key and antenna to start the car.

This is why when the your car is started you cannot operate the alarm by remote So if you want to bypass the immobilizer; build a better remote.

Maybe I should have put, check Immobilizer 1st, higher up in my post, but I think OP just wants to press a button to bypass everything. (I think?)
I do not know how well or how long this procedure using the unlock button would work or if it bypasses the immobilizer or what it is bypassing.
I do wonder why the dealer would not have told him...
Good point; since it's in the owners manual.
 

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It seems that we are answering a new question on an old thread; the OP never gave us an end result.

First off the car is driven by my 16 year old daughter, she just says it died. The remote didn't work, the key was key not accepted. The GM dealer said no problem just needs reprogramming, I had the car towed there 2 days later they call Bad News, the Tech ll will not read the system, they can't do anything, so I had it towed back home.
I found that it seemed like the car was in the run condition, the door mounted trunk release would not work ,but the windows and wipers were powered and the radio would shut off (this is with the key removed and the cylinder popped up) So hmm something spilled into the ignition switch?? I put a hair dryer over the key cylinder and left it heating for an hour or more. Now the wipers and windows are only powered with the key in the run position, but still getting Key Not Accepted, and no alarm led flashing when the key is removed. Pulled out the start relay and put in a push button switch on the relay contacts and the engine will now turn over and while turning over the fuel pump is on (+12v at fuse 19 both sides) had the kid turn the key while I checked the fuel line Schrader type valve, fuel shot out of it, so there is fuel going to the rail. But it will not start, tried with gas pedal depressed a bit and floored.
The seat belt lights come on, but the alarm leds don't come on and the door locks don't work. I just want to run the car using a push button to by pass the immobilizer and the alarm system, I don't care about the remotes . (I have lost faith in the immobilizer and alarm system) and who is going to steal it anyway
Any info is appreciated
 

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That is what I was thinking.....
But I would not mind bypassing the immobilization system someday.
 
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