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Discussion Starter #1
1999 9-3. 127K. Sec alarm goes off periodically. And in succession. The car is not driven very much. Might it be going off because the battery is being drawn down from sitting idle. Or… another thoughts?

And… is there a way to, sigh, disable it?
 

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Likely the batteries in the alarm module are failing. This is a common scenario - lots of instructions and whatnot on rebuild the module, or it can be disabled with Tech 2.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Likely the batteries in the alarm module are failing. This is a common scenario - lots of instructions and whatnot on rebuild the module, or it can be disabled with Tech 2.
Ah, thank you for the remarkably fast response. I will read up on replenishing the batteries, and/or a Tech-2 disabling...
 

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The alarm siren module usually needs more than batteries. Often times there are bad solder joints and/or bad capacitors. I had mine serviced by Module Repair Pro in California. $48 + shipping.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

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I think "often" might be an overstatement. I have repaired about ten of them. While I always replace the caps (because I bought them in bulk from Digikey) only one of them required that repair. Mostly it's the batteries.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think "often" might be an overstatement. I have repaired about ten of them. While I always replace the caps (because I bought them in bulk from Digikey) only one of them required that repair. Mostly it's the batteries.
Again, tx for the reply. Will follow the battery replacement idea first. If that is a no go, then will drill down into the next level of repair, sending off, etc.

Here's a question... can it just be removed without consequence? The car is very stationary and well protected otherwise... so just shutting it down, removing it, certainly would be doable if it doesn't cause a ripple effect. Thoughts on that?

tx
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you remove it without deprogramming it, you will get a SID error on startup which is annoying.
Right-o. But nothing beyond that? The car is used very periodically by an older person and am weighing the effort to get to a full repair (which may mean just batteries, or more) versus the annoying display and the perpetual re-re-re-re-reexplaining of why this was an easier solution, disabling. Will most certainly go for the full out make it work because the vehicle itself is in really good condition mechanically. And having had 9 Saabs to date, am all about keeping them up to snuff.
 

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Nope, it doesn't do anything other than make noise, so feel free to can it. Be aware the door lock/unlock chirp comes from the box, so if you remove it, the car will not chirp.
 

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What about just clipping the connections to the siren and leaving the module in place? Does that work?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nope, it doesn't do anything other than make noise, so feel free to can it. Be aware the door lock/unlock chirp comes from the box, so if you remove it, the car will not chirp.
Tx, that is what I was looking for. What else would be affected by disabling the device. Can do without a chirp. But if it affects the locking mechanism for instance, that would mean fix the whole thing. I am headed in that direction anyway.
 

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It won't affect the central locking. Keyless entry will still work, just minus the audible chirps. Mostly it will just annoy you with the "service theft alarm" message every time you start the car.
 

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Yeah... the "alarm" is literally just that... a noisemaker. All the other "alarm features" (locking, immobilizer, etc.) are handled elsewhere. It's a battery backed-up noisemaker!
 

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What about just clipping the connections to the siren and leaving the module in place? Does that work?
It does... but if you're going to go to the trouble of opening it up (PITA!) and resealing it (PITA!) then you might as well take the 15 minutes and $15 to actually fix it. :)
 

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It does... but if you're going to go to the trouble of opening it up (PITA!) and resealing it (PITA!) then you might as well take the 15 minutes and $15 to actually fix it. :)
I didn't realize it was that cheap and easy. Sounds like a better solution. Do you have references for where to buy batteries and capacitors?
 

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I found ebay a decent place to buy the ostensibly correct CR17335 3P (most are 2P) batteries. I say ostensibly because I'm dubious they are what they claim to be - they are probably Chinese approximations of the real thing. But they generally work - out of the ~25 batteries I've purchased I've had two or three that are defective. I've been buying 6-8 at a time so I have spares. IME you'll pay $6ea individually or as little as $3ea for bigger quantities.

If I ever do this again, I am not going to use CR17335 as they are an old, dead battery. There are plenty of 6V lithium batteries out there, and I would probably just buy a small weatherproof battery holder and a modern battery. Somewhere on Saabcentral I threw out some options but I cannot find it now.

The capacitors came from Newark … I like them as an organization and try to order from them whenever possible. I used:

ALUMINUM ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR 330UF 25V 20% RADIAL #70K9757
ALUMINUM ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR 10UF 16V 20% RADIAL #70K9740

and either

ALUMINUM ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR 220UF 10V 20% RADIAL #04M9005
or
ALUMINUM ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR 220UF 10V 20% RADIAL; #70K9722

I don't remember the quantities you need of each of these per module... it's one or two, the instructions are out there. I order 10 at a time as they're between $0.09 and $0.26 each.

Assuming you go Min Qty and Max Price you'll be in it like $12 on batteries, and maybe $5 in caps. ($1 + USPS shipping?). All you need beyond that is some way of opening the box, a soldering iron, and some screws & RTV to put it back together. I know most folks use a Dremel to open the box, but I've done the pain-staking utility knife approach to minimize plastic loss. I don't remember the spec on the screws - I can look when I get home this evening if anyone cares. They're thin and long and readily available. For the OP, you may not need cutting & screwing - I think '99 was the last year that the boxes were two pieces and screwed together (versus permanently sealed) so they are very easy to service.
 

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Hmmm.... sounds like it would be good to find a '99 in the junkyard, grab the box, and rebuild that one :) I assume the guts changed with the 9-3 update from NG900, but do you know if they used the same box? Could I use a 900 box if I found one?
 

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Yeah, I think 900 is different than 9-3/9-5. The first year or two ('99 and '00?) used screw-together cases, then went to sealed ones.

I've always leaned towards newer ones. Even though they're a PITA, I figure less wheelwell time on electronics is always better than more. There isn't that much going on inside, but nonetheless. OTOH, we're only talking about a year, or two at most. I suppose one major advantage of the screw-together type is that your utility knife won't accidentally slice through and cut the speaker wire. Like might happen to someone who DEFINITELY isn't me.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thank you all for the extensive ideas. The car is driven by a 91 year old and it is the perfect vehicle for them. As in beyond safe. The person ended up telling me they wanted a Saab mechanic to do this repair. So instead of my DIY ethic, will be spiriting the vehicle to a long, long time Saab mechanic for either repair or disabling. Personally I would repair it. The motor and trans are really quite good. So if the car ever come my way, will roll up sleeves and get to it with all this info.

Now, I have a 2008 9-3 that has two issues that I will leave a different post about and hopefully the saged group here will offer up some advice.

Thank you all...
 

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Hmmm.... sounds like it would be good to find a '99 in the junkyard, grab the box, and rebuild that one :) I assume the guts changed with the 9-3 update from NG900, but do you know if they used the same box? Could I use a 900 box if I found one?
No, you can not use any ng900 alarm parts, it is totally different.
You can use og 95 siren, it is same than og 9-3.
 
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