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Discussion Starter #1
Hi i can lock and unlock my car but the immobilizer is still active and as it's an auto the car is locked in park. Help
 

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You have bad IMMO chip in key.
Do you have another key? Try with it.

If no, you need TWICE with paired key and TECH2 to marriage it to your car.
 

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There's a way to bypass the TWICE on a T5 9-3, but Mimmi will have to comment on whether it will help you with the immobilizer issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You have bad IMMO chip in key.
Do you have another key? Try with it.

If no, you need TWICE with paired key and TECH2 to marriage it to your car.

Hi Mimmi BobSaabit posted
There's a way to bypass the TWICE on a T5 9-3, but Mimmi will have to comment on whether it will help you with the immobilizer issue.

Is this possible?
 

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I think we need clarification on what you mean by "immobilizer."

The factory immobilizer is an electronic device that requires a specific, programmed key before the system will allow the starter to engage.

The shifter interlock - the thing that keeps the shifter in park - is not related to the immobilizer... that's an electro-mechanical system tied to the brake pedal switch.

What is your actual problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think we need clarification on what you mean by "immobilizer."

The factory immobilizer is an electronic device that requires a specific, programmed key before the system will allow the starter to engage.

The shifter interlock - the thing that keeps the shifter in park - is not related to the immobilizer... that's an electro-mechanical system tied to the brake pedal switch.

What is your actual problem?
Hi
Thank you for your reply
The car is a 1998 model 93 convertible just bought it and it drove home great only paid £150.
The car is unlocked but is still immobilized. ( as per the LED flashing twice every 3 seconds on the dash) The ignition is in the locked position and the key will not turn for me to start,i drove it in the carport locked it next day unlocked it but the key won't let me start it. Would the ignition control module under the ignition switch be the problem with this?
Also is there anyway of getting the shifter out of park so i could at least move it. There are no slots or any thing where to do this, is it in the engine area?
 

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That's strange that the key won't turn the ignition. There isn't any sort of electronic ignition lockout. The key should always be able to turn it. There is a small rectangular button on the shifter trim that can be pressed down with a key, screwdriver, or something similar, and should let you move the shifter out of park. It's not the most obvious button because it's flush with the trim, but it is there. Someone else should be able to chime in on the LED's behavior. On my 1997 900, the LED only flashes when the alarm is armed, but on my 2000 9-5, I believe that it starts flashing when the key is out of the ignition. On that car, it can be flashing even when the alarm isn't armed.
 

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What Jeremy said! Don't conflate the LED with the other problems - the LED is flashing BECAUSE you can't turn the key. Once the key has unlocked the ignition, the LED will extinguish. Similarly, you cannot move the shifter until the key activates the interlock.

The problem you've got is a key that won't turn - not a shifter interlock or immobilizer problem.
 

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Was about to post what Jvan just said... the flashing three times is the ALARM being set, not the immobilizer. You've got a simpler issue.

Try spraying WD-40 down the lock cylinder hole. Lots of it. (Towel to catch overspray). Try the key again. Then the WD-40 again. The grease in these gets old and they can stuck. You can also have a mechanical problem, but 8/10 are just the grease and/or spills in the ignition.
 

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Forgot to add just for clarity so you know for future reference/terminology with Saabs: The "Immobilizer" actually stops the car from strart/running through the ECU & TWICE (Theft Warning Integrated Control Electronics, if I recall correctly). It doesn't do anything physical, but no one will be driving the car with it engaged.

The ignition key lock will prevent you from shifting out of park (or reverse with a manual), but it doesn't do anything specific to stop the engine from running... aside from the fact you can't start the car until you turn it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well guys took the bull by the horns and flooded it with WD40 and the key now comes out of lock and the shifter is out of park and as the battery is not connected so is all mechanical. Will let the WD40 drain away for a day before connecting the battery.
Will keep you all posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Forgot to add just for clarity so you know for future reference/terminology with Saabs: The "Immobilizer" actually stops the car from strart/running through the ECU & TWICE (Theft Warning Integrated Control Electronics, if I recall correctly). It doesn't do anything physical, but no one will be driving the car with it engaged.

The ignition key lock will prevent you from shifting out of park (or reverse with a manual), but it doesn't do anything specific to stop the engine from running... aside from the fact you can't start the car until you turn it.
Hi Bob see my post below/above the WD40 has got the key turning.
 

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Woo Hoo. You don't have to wait. Done it many times. WD-40 is non-conductive and was actually designed originally for electrical water displacement (WD). Fire it up. It is definitely advisable to remove the key cylinder at some point and clean it properly. But then again, before I knew that, I did the WD40 trick on several cars and they were fine for 50K miles.

FWIW, most of the WD-40 went through and is now under the shifter and oiling the top of what would be the transmission tunnel on a RWD car. If you end up in there for some other reason one day you can wipe up the excess, but it's not going to bother anything.
 

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Woo Hoo. You don't have to wait. Done it many times. WD-40 is non-conductive and was actually designed originally for electrical water displacement (WD). Fire it up. It is definitely advisable to remove the key cylinder at some point and clean it properly. But then again, before I knew that, I did the WD40 trick on several cars and they were fine for 50K miles.

FWIW, most of the WD-40 went through and is now under the shifter and oiling the top of what would be the transmission tunnel on a RWD car. If you end up in there for some other reason one day you can wipe up the excess, but it's not going to bother anything.
Thanks Bob as its night time here i will wait until the morning then try. My next problem will be getting it through an MOT test we have to abide by here in the UK.
Will keep you all posted.
 
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