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My sequence is a little different... but I don't know if the NA motor changes the exhaust part:
  • break middle subframe bolts loose with car on ground
  • unplug oxy sensors and push connectors though brackets
  • jack car and put on stands
  • remove three nuts holding downpipe to turbo
  • remove exhaust clamp post cat. Stock may also have bracket bolted to engine, remove bolt. Drop down pipe.
  • remove front subframe bolts
  • remove middle subframe bolts
  • remove oil pan bolts
  • lever a piece of wood, approx 3" between subframe and body
  • whack oil pan with rubber mallet and wiggle pan from above subframe and out
  • look up... and remove oil delivery tube that is running across engine, internally just above pan. Note location before removing.

With pan out
  • remove bolts holding pickup tube in pan.
  • clean pan, screen & pickup tube.
  • put new o-ring on pickup tube
  • put new o-rings on oil delivery tube
  • Optional: break your oxy sensors free in the pipe while you have the pipe out. Put a very small amount of anti-seize on the thread and reinstall. This is just PM for when you need to do them in 50K miles.

Installation

  • clean gasket surface of pan to "perfect" and wipe with alcohol or similar
  • clean bottom of block same as above
  • install oil delivery tube into original location
  • put a 1/16" bead of Loctite 518 on the bottom of block. Smear flat.
  • install pan and bolts; lightly snug; torque in pattern per WIS
  • reinstall everything else reverse of removal
 

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FWIW small, dense foam rollers work awesome for spreading out 518. If your bead is good down the middle you probably don't need to do that, but I have a caffeine problem and my bead is never that good. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #23
My sequence is a little different... but I don't know if the NA motor changes the exhaust part:
  • break middle subframe bolts loose with car on ground
  • unplug oxy sensors and push connectors though brackets
  • jack car and put on stands
  • remove three nuts holding downpipe to turbo
  • remove exhaust clamp post cat. Stock may also have bracket bolted to engine, remove bolt. Drop down pipe.
  • remove front subframe bolts
  • remove middle subframe bolts
  • remove oil pan bolts
  • lever a piece of wood, approx 3" between subframe and body
  • whack oil pan with rubber mallet and wiggle pan from above subframe and out
  • look up... and remove oil delivery tube that is running across engine, internally just above pan. Note location before removing.

With pan out
  • remove bolts holding pickup tube in pan.
  • clean pan, screen & pickup tube.
  • put new o-ring on pickup tube
  • put new o-rings on oil delivery tube
  • Optional: break your oxy sensors free in the pipe while you have the pipe out. Put a very small amount of anti-seize on the thread and reinstall. This is just PM for when you need to do them in 50K miles.

Installation

  • clean gasket surface of pan to "perfect" and wipe with alcohol or similar
  • clean bottom of block same as above
  • install oil delivery tube into original location
  • put a 1/16" bead of Loctite 518 on the bottom of block. Smear flat.
  • install pan and bolts; lightly snug; torque in pattern per WIS
  • reinstall everything else reverse of removal
Check, check and check. Taking my notes for me. Am settled on replacing pan, myself. And motor mounts at the same time. Applying thread oils now. Likely come at this in 8-10 days. All this is much appreciated. Much.

In the meantime, firing up the 1999 9-3 that was hibernating for a few months as my pop stopped driving. Nice to have 3rd vehicle in the mix. Saab, natch.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
FWIW small, dense foam rollers work awesome for spreading out 518. If your bead is good down the middle you probably don't need to do that, but I have a caffeine problem and my bead is never that good. :p
Roger. I don't have a caffeine issue, but my signature looks like a cardiogram, so will follow your direction on this too.

Again, all this is much appreciated from the group.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ok, have the '97 900S moved to a location where I will be able to work on it. Awaiting parts. Xmas and all.

Meantime, I inherited, acquired, a 1999 9-3. Overwrote on this vehicle earlier in this thread. Soooo, have a couple of questions about it. Typing this essentially useless post as by appearances, easy to look at my posts and go wtf, '97, '99' 2008... what gives. Well, I do have all these at present. Onward...
 

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In regards to the sub-frame bolts is it absolutely necessary to unbolt and drop sub-frame? Can the engine be lifted enough using an engine lifting beam to pull the pan?
 

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I don't actually drop the sub, front bolt yes rear 2 loosen then put in a couple threads. I unbolt the bottom 2 nuts on the rear mount, and remove the right engine mount and pull it up as far as possible, then take off the 3 bolts on the strut tower and its weight lowers the sub naturally, and that gives good access.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Ok, have the '97 900S moved to a location where I will be able to work on it. Awaiting parts. Xmas and all.

Meantime, I inherited, acquired, a 1999 9-3. Overwrote on this vehicle earlier in this thread. Soooo, have a couple of questions about it. Typing this essentially useless post as by appearances, easy to look at my posts and go wtf, '97, '99' 2008... what gives. Well, I do have all these at present. Onward...
Replying to myself. I did indeed move the '97 to a location where I can work on it. Parts arriving. In the meantime, have a '99 that am now driving. But... will leave a ? about a 2008 9-3 in another thread.

Is that confusing enough? In the meantime, did want to update, not that anyone was waiting by the computer to hear.. but things are getting staged so I can DIY (weather also a contributing factor), and now to a 2008---> And to say thank you to everyone who replies with advice, and entertainment. Thank you.
 
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