Sir, thank you. This is what I was hoping for. A parts list, needs list. I will still end up crawling under and exiting the vehicle 1000 times as I grind through this learning process. Have done a boatload of things on them throughout time.. this will be a first. Kick myself for a last second decision to what I thought was to avoid a road anomaly. Nawp. Just caught it.There's a long thread for it. I will post it later when I am at my computer and replace this.
Meanwhile, order an o-ring for the oil pickup tube and two for the oil delivery pipe. A tube of loctite 518. I don't know know about the exhaust on the NA motor, but you'll need to drop whatever pipe is under the pan, so check the pipes clamps and see if you want to order one or more. On the Turbo motor you have to drop the down pipe off so we get three new nuts for the pipe to manifold connection- you might want to do the same for whatever you need on the NA motor.
I'd start spraying any of those parts that are rusty with PB Blast now and repeat for a couple days to ease your pain.
Is why I come here. This repair will make me a BTDT as well. Until a couple years ago, also had a 1997 900T. Brother to this 1997 900s. Kinda wish I would have taken the time to do the work needed to get it back up to snuff. Too many medical things happening at the time tho.This is advice from someone who has BTDT!
Brilliant. About to order parts, supplies, and will in the meantime commit to study and restudy, and re-re-re-re-restudy of what I am up for...
Brilliant. Have become a very amateur expert in all things Saab. Unfortunately, Ii emphasize the word amateur, aka shade tree mechanic. And many of these repairs are one-offs. So far be it from me to gin up a How To.Here's the local thread. Dropped the oil pan (56k, forget it)
The only downside to this thread is that some moderator decided to merge the OG 9-3 pan drop thread with OG 9-5 pan drop thread a couple years ago in a frenzied operation where they created a new oil forum and then populated it. It's the same process for the engines but there's a difference in the chassis that makes it a bit confusing. When you read the posts, you need to ascertain which car they are posting about. Subframes are different!
FYI - You need to support the engine when you do this because you will be loosening the subframe. You can put a jack under the transmission but the pro way, and the easy way, is to head to Harbor Freight and buy the engine support bar for $63 with a 20% coupon. They have a 25% Xmas sale coming up (google coupon).
Get a used pan, not aftermarket. Has to be a T5 pan (assuming you don't have a V6). All T5 pans from '94 to '98 T5 will fit, turbo or not, according to the EPC. Classifieds here would be good for findig one so you can get a guarantee of quality/straight/good gasket flange.
One thought is that you can could check the local U-pull for a pan and then try it there first. Free learning on a car you don't care about. You'll need to bring your support bar and/or get creative to do it safely. I emphasize safely. Of course, since you don't have to reinstall it, there's some additional flexibility - no pun intended.
I just crawled under it for the first time and yessir, that thought crossed my mind. I don't mind the butt ugly temp repair until spring gets sprung. I have several medium to big ticket items that need tending and this patch idea is appealing, so I can gather all of my plans together for a spate of time to do this.Might be worth considering a patch over the
crack usingg 2 part epoxy putty depending on how much the car is worth and if you can live with the cancerous look. Depending on the size of the crack and location it can be done fairly easily.
I'm sorry to hear about your mom. It's funny who you find in your lives who liked these cars. One of my uncles always wanted one, but never bought one. A lady my mom taught elementary school with had a C900, but spent ungodly amounts of money maintaining it. She sold it for a Camry a while back. The sales manager at a computer store I used to work at in college leased a 9-3 for a while. I had completely forgotten he took me for a ride in that thing until years after I bought my first, a 1997 900 turbo. I remember him nailing the throttle between roundabouts on his street to show us what it could do.
If you do take out the rear subframe bolts, make sure you get a set of new sleeves for the stanchion arm bushings (two per side) and a pair of new bolts. Other than the head bolts, the rear subframe/stanchion arm bolts are the only torque-to-yield bolts on the car, and are supposed to be replaced every time. They do get pretty rusty and chewed up where they go through the sleeves. At least they're fairly cheap for large factory bolts, as are the sleeves.
I made an engine support beam out of a 4"x4" with two small pieces of 2"x4" that sit on the fenders a while back that works great, but it's incredibly bulky and I'd like to get it out of the garage one of these days. It was cheap, and I put it together in about 30 minutes one afternoon. My first attempt was out of a 2"x4", but it sagged an uncomfortable amount in the middle under the weight of the engine. It has the largest steel threaded eye I could find at Home Depot, and I use a large S-hook to connect it to the engine.
oh come on now you'll have 3 maybe 4 seconds when the light comes on for low oil pressure, , NOT. replace the pan !!!. The downside is huge, the investment relatively small. If it starts leaking on a drive, you won't know it until it's too late and the engine seizes.
I am gearing towards replace pan. Motor on this is strong still. Getting crazy good gas mileage, still. 130K. So it is prudent to do it right. My only thing will be, 'we do it nice because we do it twice." I WILL forget something along the way. Or overlook something. Besides, I use this for the pleasure it is to drive on the highway.. but I don't want to continually be looking in the rearview mirror, wondering.I temp patched an alloy oil pan that had a crack that was NOT leaking using JB Weld. It was a minor crack and was visible from the outside not the inside. Inside the pan looked original. If I'd known it was cracked, I would never had patched it - I would have found a new pan ahead of time. But, I was already into the job and needed it done.
I'd never patch a pan that was actually cracked through and leaking. First, I don't know how you'd get it clean/dry enough to patch properly without dropping the pan anyway. Second, I don't think it's worth the risk if it's actually leaking. The downside is huge, the investment relatively small. If it starts leaking on a drive, you won't know it until it's too late and the engine seizes.
Comeuppance heard loud and clear. And props for your Cliff Notes sequence. I will be studying this whole thing, as I do every time I crawl into one of these... and as said prior, since I will be in to this already, install new motor mounts, plural.oh come on now you'll have 3 maybe 4 seconds when the light comes on for low oil pressure, , NOT. replace the pan !!!
drop passenger side subframe bolts (leave middle bolt few threads in to hold frame)
drop down strut assembly (3 bolts)
unbolt rear motor mount
drop down pipe.
simple ( I'm hitting the easy button right now)