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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well this is the first time ive seen this site so ill start off by saying hi my name is dom, and as to my problem, i have a 1995 v6 24 valve 900 se, when i go to accelerate it looses power, but it doesnt do it if the engine is still cold, some told me it might be the throttle position sensor but no one can figure out the exact problem, its not the spark plugs, wires, or coil pack, ive cleaned out all the carbon, and icant really see how it would be a mechanical problem like a bent valve or anything. anyway thx for taking the time to read this and my aim sn is BIGDTFC if anyone would like to talk person to person about it.
 

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i have a simliar problem in first gear when i floor it, it lags really really bad sometimes.....i think it may be the clutch though, is yours a manual or auto?
 

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Welcome to SC, Dom.

So, with the engine cold she runs OK, but after the thermostat opens( 3 to 5 minutes), hesitation occurs when warm.

This problem seems to be temperature dependant...

The coil-pacs could be suffering from "heat exhaustion"..
There must be a way to test them..

Test the fuel pressure..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
:(

Well the coil pack was replaced and it still happened, ill have the fuel pressure checked, is it anything else that it could be, i was told the throttle position sensor could be causing it. and the lower the octane the worse it becomes. thx for your help guys, but if anyone else has any suggestions please make sure to let me know this is making me mad at a perfectly good car
 

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Hi, this sound a little like my problem on my 96 4cyl 2.3 l non turbo 900s. Except, I have no sing relating to temperature...it does it cold or hot at any speed. It feels like it is lacking fuel...not muisfirering.....still trying to figure it out and loosing patience rapidly.....have you had any luck?

Regards....

DJT. (see my thread-> look under FUEL STARVATION)
 

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My car does the same thing. When it is cold out and I first start it it runs like a dream but when the engine gets warm it starts to happen. If it is really warm out 80+ it is really bad. I have had the mechanic do some trouble shooting on it when it was in for another problem but he couldn't find the problem in the time that I had to wait for it. It did just have the coil replaced and it didn't fix the problem. I have swapped MAF sensor and air temp sensor with no change. I think there is a way to test the TPS with a volt meter but don't know how to do it ( I have the Diag and fault trace book but it only gives values not where to take them ).

bigdtfc if you have solved this problem please let me know. I am trying to work through it and will let you know if I solve mine.

Dan
 

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Did you test the crankshaft sensor? If your problem is heat related, I heard a lot of people mention defects with the crank sensor that only appear when the engine is hot (therefore the sensor). I was told the part is cheap and very easy to replace.

On my side, my problem is constant...any temp....I'm lossing it slowly....this has been going on all summer and no one can find the problem....

DJT.
 

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I'm really starting to wonder if mechanics still have a place in this world....Some have monster equipment (Full scale OBD2 readers...etc....5000 sensors per car...etc) and have no clue how to use it...they end up replacing every part on the car until they accidently hit the foldy connection and miraculously fix the problem...by that time, you have a new car in parts!

When you look at all the info displayed on their computer....not a single thing (including passenger **** size) is left out...how is it, therefore, impossible to solve a problem by other means than the gun shot approach????

Hell, I have a better solution: replace the whole car....there's a safe bet!

Anyhow, I just cut a hole in the floor under the rear bench to give access to the fuel pump; correcting the design mistake from hell. Still have no clue on if the pump is faulty or not.....no way to test fuel pressure in this damned model (96). I guess they forgot to put a test point!

So I will spend at least 400$ CDN to have the pump replaced and then...THEN, see if that corrected the problem....And the worst is I see this in every thread for avery type of car....this cannot be. (Sorry, I guess I have a more deductive approach beeing a physicist)....Too bad i have no more patience for playing in engines (did it for too long and getting too old..lol)

The irony of it all is that the cause of both our problems is probably a damn sensor (which should id itself if you ask me)....but hey...!

Regards,

DJT.
 

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The problem is the first 2 years of the 900 V6 had a crappy computer and will not tell you things like the later models will. My mechanic is great. If he replaces a part and it doesn't fix the problem I don't get charged. Most honest guy I have come across. The problem is with the electronics of the V6.

As for your problem, couldn't you put a T in the line and test the pressure and then cap it when you are done. The cost of fuel pumps on these cars if kind of high. That is why I picked up a spare for $10 when I had the chance even though I didn't and still don't need it, but if it does go I am ready :cool: .

Dan
 

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Lucky you for the 10$ pump.

By the way, your mechanic is of a very rare breed not to charge you if the problem persists...I don't have such luck these days. By the way, my model is the V4 2.3l. But I heard similar stories for this one computer-wise...etc.

I still don't know what to do...my access hole is ready, but since the problem is getting wors quite rapidly, I guess I'll wait til it gets really bad to make it easier to find.

Regards,

DJT.
 

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Hi , I worked at theV6 plant for a good few years testing engines for durability-from what you have said about the problem I would sugest you check the engine temperature sender, its located on the water bridge that links the two heads together (gearbox end) the one on the top with a lead coming off it is for the temp gauge the other with a blue 2 pin plug is for the ECU - its a NTC resistor (negative temperature coefficient), 5 volts is fed from ecu through the ressistor - if its cold - high ressistance if its warm low ressistance. the same type of resitor is used for the air intake temp, the ecu uses these two sensors plus other reference values to adapt the fuel injection and ignition point in various engine operating conditions

To check, test ressistance cold with a meter on ohms (high ressistance)- check again when at normal temp - (low ressistance)
If you are getting low or high voltages it should come up with a fault code - but I'm not sure what the set points are for it to come up with one.

If thats ok - the other thing it could well be is the lambda sensors - these do not operate in closed loop when the engine is cold - so do not control the emissions untill the engine is at operating temp - they should go to open loop though under full throttle conditions so you can overtake.

hope this helps


bigdtfc said:
Well this is the first time ive seen this site so ill start off by saying hi my name is dom, and as to my problem, i have a 1995 v6 24 valve 900 se, when i go to accelerate it looses power, but it doesnt do it if the engine is still cold, some told me it might be the throttle position sensor but no one can figure out the exact problem, its not the spark plugs, wires, or coil pack, ive cleaned out all the carbon, and icant really see how it would be a mechanical problem like a bent valve or anything. anyway thx for taking the time to read this and my aim sn is BIGDTFC if anyone would like to talk person to person about it.
 
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