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Does anyone have measurement specs for the A, AB and C pistons? I've dug around and can only find the part numbers. There are 3 ring sizes but 5 piston sizes.
Great project, posts, videos, and effort to save an old Saab, very inspiring. Wish I had a fraction of your skill and free time to progress my Saab projects. One comment, get a set of crow's foot wrenches, cheap, really help get fittings off like brake lines. In the UK we would never attempt much of what you are doing because we can find second hand parts instead of fixing, through prices are going up, had two spare sets of front fenders in perfect condition for example and had my hand ripped off when I offerred themout at what I thought was a fair price.

Pistons sizes in mm only for ease of typing:

Standard A 89.971-89.980
Standard AB 89.980-89.989
Standard B 89.989-89.997
Standard C 89.997-90.013
First oversize .5mm 90.472-90.488
Second oversize 1mm 90.972-90.988
Piston clearance (nominal) 0.007-0.037
 

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There is also a classification of the clearances for combinations of the A and B and AB pistons with the A or B sized cylinders, as stamped on the block next to each cylinder, can provide if useful if planning to mix pistons from different engines.
 

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It's back from Hauser Auto Machine looking like gold. 1 undersize on both and ready for bearings to get ordered. $125 to cut and polish. Ready for 200k more miles.

View attachment 279809
Do you know if your crank was polished by a belt or tape machine? Also did they give you the finished speficiation for the journals RA? Have been considering this for a project on my engine stand, but is a fair bit of cash, like so many other maybe steps.
 

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Discussion Starter #444
I have 8 to 22mm crows and they come in handy periodically. I wish I could find inexpensive parts but most of the tough ones come from Sweden, Netherlands, Latvia or Canada and do not exist in large quantities. I often do not find parts online in the UK that are not priced higher than other sources in other countries.

This is my current sanity project. I enjoy rebuilding and learning to destress from the day job as a senior software developer. My last project, the 1982 Yammy XJ550 bike ended up having to go before completion. I could not focus on both and the SAAB needed a lot more time/money and attention to detail.

THANK YOU for the missing piston sizes! The engine build will eventually happen. It is not an inexpensive task and it is going to take time to save up for the parts. It will be a very satisfying accomplishment to complete when it happens.

If the engine has been resleeved, will there still be a size group stamp? I see parting lines so I suspect this one has been sleeved.
 

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Discussion Starter #445
Do you know if your crank was polished by a belt or tape machine? Also did they give you the finished speficiation for the journals RA? Have been considering this for a project on my engine stand, but is a fair bit of cash, like so many other maybe steps.
Video posting today for crank returning to me. I will ask if they used a tape or belt setup. Hauser Auto Machine in Raleigh, NC did it for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #447
Hauser Auto Machine uses belts, no tape machines. They try to manage taper between .0002 and .0005 on regrinds. Mains bearings ordered. I have a huge list left to buy over the next 12 months. Mains bolts and rod shells will be next.
 

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I have 8 to 22mm crows and they come in handy periodically. I wish I could find inexpensive parts but most of the tough ones come from Sweden, Netherlands, Latvia or Canada and do not exist in large quantities. I often do not find parts online in the UK that are not priced higher than other sources in other countries.

This is my current sanity project. I enjoy rebuilding and learning to destress from the day job as a senior software developer. My last project, the 1982 Yammy XJ550 bike ended up having to go before completion. I could not focus on both and the SAAB needed a lot more time/money and attention to detail.

THANK YOU for the missing piston sizes! The engine build will eventually happen. It is not an inexpensive task and it is going to take time to save up for the parts. It will be a very satisfying accomplishment to complete when it happens.

If the engine has been resleeved, will there still be a size group stamp? I see parting lines so I suspect this one has been sleeved.
Like you I find working on something tangible, real, is good therapy after using a phone and a keyboard all day.

Do you think you need to use new bolts on the mains and rod caps? Your version is lightly stressed and, hopefully, your girls aren't going to thrash it. These and flywheel bolts hit with strong threadlock instead?

While it is possible, it is very unlikely your engine has been resleeved, it would be a lot of engineering needed if somehow the engine had a severe lack or coolant or oil. It is cast iron without a sleeve as standard, and the block you have is effectively the same as the turbo block, which is legendary strong. It is very common to take 150k 9k engines apart and find the cylinders still have hone marks on the side. Rings rarely are out of spec at that miles on a properly maintained engine, I have a spare ring set but am reusing the existing on a track enfine build of a B234 with 130k miles from a donor.
Block is this tough; was driving leaving from Venlo seeing relatives to Frankfurt as had to work there the next morning, so said to myself no crazy driving, couple BMWs came by at 155mph just over th border on unrestricked autobahn, go to full boost and run them down with maybe 10mph closing speed, continue for at least five minutes mostly pegged WOT, slow for a curve and look down to see a Christmas light dispay as my idler belt pulley had left the scene sometime back, grrr, coast to a stop in truck pull over. So I had run at 5500rpm in 5th for some time without a functional water pump...should do a spot here for Mobil 1 15W-50 oil. Get car towed to Koblenz Saab, taxi to Frankfurt, just enough time at hotel to change and go to work, certain engine was toast, oval cylinder bores, everything melted. Had spare head shipped over from UK, only damage was mine was warped and DI fried, new thermostat, oil, filter, good to go, even took my warped head to a engine wizard machine shop in Dagenham London and he straighened it hot on a plate and it has been back on my car for years.
 

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Hauser Auto Machine uses belts, no tape machines. They try to manage taper between .0002 and .0005 on regrinds. Mains bearings ordered. I have a huge list left to buy over the next 12 months. Mains bolts and rod shells will be next.
That sounds a good job, essential to use a competent shop, I have used one once in USA that couldn't put anything back the way they took it apart let alone machine straight. The machine shop world is moving to tapes for micropolishing as OEM uses now, apparently smoothness of RA 10 or ten micro inches is becoming the new norm, better for motorsprorts, pretty amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter #450
New mains bolts. I'm not trusting the old ones, never will. $100 worth of potential failure turns into a new engine if one goes. I will not use threadlocker on the mains bolts, torqued per the manual. The only time I'd consider threadlocker on the mains would be ARP studs and they would get red threadlocker only in the block. The rods are held in with cap studs so I'm just going to re-use the nuts with a little bit of orange threadlocker for peace of mind. I'm not going to mess with pressing them out of the rods. The threading does not look stressed at all. New head studs, since those are TTY fasteners.
 

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Discussion Starter #451
Firewall just needs a cleaning. The brake booster needs quite a bit of rust management, though. It works, but not for long if it keeps rusting like that.

280100

280101

20210330_215801.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #452
Fender lip rust repairs done. First base coat is on. 2 more to go with lots of wet sanding, then 2K clear to seal it. Video of repairs soon.

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280121
 

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Discussion Starter #454
Well the wire wheel did not do that much. I will have to rely on some high temp primer and paint I guess. Mid section buffed compared to outer pipe that was not. Those smog tubes were a pain to remove.

280288
 

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Discussion Starter #455
Valve lappy and new stem seals done. Cams are back on as well with new sprockets. Will get a pic. Video soon of lapping process. I am glad this was not a V8... My hands would be big blisters.

280289
 

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That exhaust came up pretty good, tough dirty job. Got to admire your determination!
Last couple I have cleaned up I have used electroysis, ten times easier and all the rust comes off, even did a Saab engine block this way after removing everything including frost pugs, couple Saab examples:



Also would your local regulations allow you to bin the smog pump and reinjection? It would run a lot nicer without any of that...
 

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Valve lappy and new stem seals done. Cams are back on as well with new sprockets. Will get a pic. Video soon of lapping process. I am glad this was not a V8... My hands would be big blisters.

View attachment 280289
Thanks for that, have always had a machine shop do this for anything bigger than a lawn mower, must try some day.

I think you did do as many valves as most V8's have at 2 per cylinder in many American V8s.
 

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Fender lip rust repairs done. First base coat is on. 2 more to go with lots of wet sanding, then 2K clear to seal it. Video of repairs soon.

View attachment 280120

View attachment 280121
That's a good save of a fender. How do you safely spray 2 pack clear, pretty deadly stuff that? Do you have an air fed mask with clean air feed available? Have only rattle canned small bits on super cheap cars so far.
 
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