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Discussion Starter #21
Found the fuel pump connector housing but could not find just the rubber wire seals. This site has replacement pigtails, instead, that fit the Volvo sealed housing setups like that on the fuel pump module. I'm going to splice in two new 2.5mm and two new 1.5mm pigtails into the harness. Once that's done the fuel pump repair will be complete. This repair will cost about $42 excluding hot-melt splices and shrink tubing I'll use.


268905

268906
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Got the parts in from Dave's Volvo Page. Exactly as I expected. Volvo OE connector housing and quality pre-sealed and terminate bullet connectors for the fuel module. Just push them in the housing and then snap the retainers over. A large red/black set for the pump connection and a small yellow/black set for the level sending unit.





 

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Discussion Starter #23
Almost.. The subframe bolts gave me a workout. The swaybar end link broke off so gotta replace it. Will do both probably, rubber is really dry rotted. Got 2 trans bolts out and the tropical storm hit. Figures.
 

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Ambitious certainly But most ANY quality connector can be retrofitted.
Wasted focus Mate ....your Goldberg style fuel line tubings and Hose Clamps (seriously!?) does give pause though.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Not without the housing and seals to keep the bullet terminals from spreading apart and coming loose from vibration. You need the housing and seals to keep it all tight. That's why I replaced it in the first place. If there's one thing I know well, it's electrical terminal design. I have an EE so I think that speaks some amount to my background.

Agreed on the fuel lines. That's what I have to work with. It appears that the factory line broke at some point and another owner "got it working". It's all temporary and does not leak for testing at this point. The old, brittle, plastic lines will be cut off and replaced once the car is ready to roll onto a lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Speaking of wiring. I have a brake circuit issue. Parking circuit and signals work. I have pulled the rear lamp housings and tested at the connector. I have 12V on both sides of the brake switch until the switch is released at pedal movement. Then it's interrupted. What could be causing no power to reach the rear housings? The fuse is fine under the glove box. Does the brake circuit run through any of the modules or is it an isolated lighting circuit?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
It is probably the bulb monitor box. I will take it out and check it out. Most likely I burned up a few diodes when I accidentally fed back through the brake source.

I know I've mentioned Jim Ellis online parts before and recommended them. After my most recent order with Jim Ellis Saab in GA, I have to retract that. The sales team argued with me that the throttle body on my car does NOT have a coolant passage and I do NOT need the coolant seal, please verify which seals I need for the TB from an unrelated diagram. I proceeded to duplicate what I f'in ORDERED on the web site, per the diagram that physically matches the TB in my hand. FFS man, it's a $30 order of rubber just send the damn seals!! I requested order cancellation of both the TB and slave cylinder part orders yesterday. No follow-up yet on the refund (paypal). :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #31
New clutch kit, master cylinder, pilot bearing, release bearing and slave cylinder parts on order. Found two of the TB seals but the shaft seals will have to come in from Sweden so that will be a long wait for rebuild. Better to do it now and avoid air leaks than have to deal with it later once it's running.
 

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Serious work bringing this car back to life. But for what it is worth, I reckon the non turbo CDs ride the nicest of all of them. I had a 93 CD, and a 97 CD.

Now I have a 93 CSI, manual and a 93 Griffin auto, both have harder/noisier rides than the two CDs I mentioned above.
But I love the shape of the CSI, and like the idea of driving a good looking old car with 370,000km on it.
My 93 9000 griffin is a "nice to have project car".

Interested to see you have the trans out without taking the engine out.
Wondering if I might have to do that on my CSI.

I will keep lurking here.

Nice rims.

Rbn
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I know nothing about these cars except what I'm learning as I rebuild. Part quality is very high to have so much original stuff still on it. I need to verify but I believe the engine may have been swapped in this car at some point. The VIN points to a turbo configuration according to a dealer so I have some checking to do. Regardless, I'm not putting a turbo engine in it. I bought this specific car because it was NT 5-speed. The steering rack bolts where the most annoying part of the entire removal. I might consider the full drop next time. Well that and the fact that most of them had been attacked by salt for years making them a nightmare to loosen in the first place. If the bolts aren't too tough to remove then dropping the subframe half is much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
The transmission is installed and the clutch is working. I did not get any video of the struggles. It got to the point of threatening the crusher before it gave in. The intermediate shaft tube fell out of the LH bushing after I bumped it putting in the last subframe bolt. :mad: It'll stay that way until I can get it on a lift and get both hands on it. I will be getting video of the throttle body rebuild, install and restart as soon as the shaft seals come in from Sweden(if they ever do). I'm waiting one more week for a ship date from eSaabparts.com and then I'm going to measure the thing and source a set of V seals myself. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Throttle body is done. Ended up putting some viton o-rings into the packing space. Still no response from the vendor on when the V seals will ship from Sweden. I don't expect them to ever arrive and hope to get a refund soon. One 11x7x2 and 5 12x11x2 filled the packing space and sealed up nice. Hope to get the car running this weekend, with the new clutch and transmission done.



 

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I wonder if that is my "surging" issue. Only happens on "float" throttle opening, say at 80kph in 5th, or 50kph in 4th.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
It is very possible it could be the packing or the seal around the TPS on the other end. That said it's probably the MAF hitting a dead zone. Is yours boosted or NA?
 
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