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Discussion Starter #1
Just acquired a 1994 9000 non-turbo 5-speed and will be refreshing it after sitting for over 4 years. It sat near salt marsh for several years so it has surface corrosion on various places and it needs some major cleaning and cosmetic touches. The clutch needs work, no fluid pressure. Got it to cough and run briefly on ether. 3/4 tank of unknown fluid. Likely E10 so water in the bottom most likely. Next step will be tank drain and pump testing.

I tried to post pics but was denied as "spam".
 

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Hmmm You've got serious work ahead of you. Saabs can be seductive as they often look good even when fit for the crusher . I hope it was Free.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I get a good deal on any project I take on. If it wasn't going to run it would have been scrapped. The cosmetic work is not a concern, this is a long term refresh for my kids to learn to drive with and I will be doing all of the work. Apart from the light surface corrosion it looks to be in really good shape for sitting 4 years. Once the clutch is fixed and the fuel pump is working it'll be going on a lift for a chassis inspection. I suspect bushings and bearings will need replacing here and there. The rocker cover is leaking but I don't see signs anywhere of any other leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rear seat bottom is coming along. The coconut oil treatment is working, but really slow. It's all going to need re-dying.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Picking up a battery today at the pick and pull. I will be doing some work and shooting more video tomorrow. 85F and partly cloudy supposedly. I'm ready for the 50F weather. Have to look in the workshop and see if I have any 4" PVC parts laying around to make a retaining ring tool with for the fuel module. The tap method did not work last time.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This 47 size will fit in the car just fine. 40R, 41(OEM), 42 and 47 will all fit the tray and hood clearance. This one has the positive terminal on the correct side and the cleats on all sides. Made in January 2019 and was less than $60. 30-day warranty so I can't complain. I'd have to wait a few days to have a 41 size come in at the auto store and pay $140 for a battery not much newer with a slightly better warranty.


 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fuel feed pump circuit has no power. Checked relay and fuse under glove box. Power is going to fuel pump relay under the hood though. I'm hoping it's not the ECU/PCM. Appears there is a water leak possibly in the windshield sealant since both floor boards were wet. Carpet is coming out next weekend. The fuel module came out and the basket looks good but the pump has started to erode in the basket. Fuel sender works fine. The grommets and seals are used bubble gum now and the inlet filter is clogged.












 

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Narsty!
Easiest way to check a fuel pump is to jumper the brake light circuit to the fuel pump circuit at the fuse panel.
If the ECU doesn't sense the engine is turning, power is cut to the fuel pump relay -- safety feature.
The fuel pump will energize for a few seconds on startup sequence to pressurize the fuel rail, then shut back off.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks! I'll try that. I tried it while cranking and nothing happened so it could be both the ECU and the anti-theft playing tricks on me.
 

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Thanks! I'll try that. I tried it while cranking and nothing happened so it could be both the ECU and the anti-theft playing tricks on me.
Hmm? my "anti-theft" kills the starter -- so there's no cranking if it goes off -- but mines a '97 and such things may be different...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Is there a decent wiring diagram for the non-turbo 9000 around somewhere? The only one I could find is for a 97 turbo. I have alldatadiy but the wiring diagrams are so fuzzy they are illegible. #scanfail
 

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Discussion Starter #16
A couple small details left for the rear seat bottom panels and it'll be ready for new muslin wire channels. Found a large remnant at Jo'Ann's for $2. Score. I may have to stitch a few pieces for the bolster run but it was cheap. :p




I had to shift the panel a little to accommodate for shrinkage. I had to remove the entire center panel from the bolsters due to the amount of drying on that one panel. Something liquid sat on it at some point and really dried it up. The leather is still really strong after softening. The upholstery shop told me it'd never hold. Eh, this will do just fine. I'm using Coats upholstery thread, really tough thread. My fingers took a beating after I broke 3 jeans needles in the old Kenmore 10-stitch from bobbin loops. It has the power to do it, but I couldn't feed it evenly enough to make it stitch properly.




 

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Discussion Starter #17
Smuggling a beach are you?



Rust control time on the rear seat springs. Two more wire channels to finish and the cover will be ready to go on. Foam has been thoroughly washed and is drying. A few splits here and there during compression but overall it's good for another 20 years.







A new, better spot for the upcoming trans and clutch work. Thanks Randy! Carolina Dyno
I may also replace any bushings that are worn which are accessible. It will need a bath next visit. The old gasoline is like skunk perfume and the whole tank and engine bay area need degreasing. I'll also pressure wash the body panels and see if any of the dead mildew will come off.

 

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Discussion Starter #18
During the wiring tracing last weekend I managed to direct short, what I thought was the fuel pump relay, the load terminals across where the ignition buzzer plugs in. Now, no body lights except door lights and reverse. I'm trying to trace this in the alldata wiring diagrams and I can not find it anywhere. Any idea where the 30 and 87a "load" terminals run on the harness? I heated things up pretty good so I suspect I fried a control module but hoping it's just a fuse or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Seat foam is clean and the base is ready to go. Need to sew the mid bolster wires back on with new muslin channel before the cover can go back on.




This is another other project I've been working on when not working on the Saab.
1982 Yamaha XJ550 Maxim frame-up rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Studying the hundred pages of diagram snips it looks like the possible victim in the short may be on the +15 power tap and the main fuse for it. I'm praying it's just a fuse and nothing else branching off of it. Will try to trace it on Saturday if time allows. I really want to get that slave cylinder off so I may not have time. The camcorder battery disappeared last trip so I may not have a decent camera to shoot video. The GoPro 4 sucks for audio, we'll see.
 
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