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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
cdl is not working from drivers door lock or door pin. my firsth problem is where is the fuse for the cdl. between the car manual the haynes and the bently im totally confused. if its the 20amp under the rear seat its ok? is there a relay for the cdl some where? ive seach through other simailar post but cant seem to find any solutions in them.

any help appreciated

nathan
 

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Nathan, Control relay for cenral locking is located behind the knee roll. If you look up from under you will find the bracket that holds it just visable. it can be removed with the lower dash still in position (just!)


 

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Check out the switch inside the driver's door that's supposed to activate the motors on the other doors. It's a black box about 10cm in legth and it's bolted to the interior of the door jamb on the driver's door. There is a rod on the end of the "black box" that needs to be hooked up to the lock, make sure that hasn't fallen off.

Good luck,

-Rob

PS: the Bentley is a much more accurate manual, you can basically throw the Haynes away in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for reply guys, ive checked the rod from the solenoid and its connected. ive checked for a 12v feed at pin 4 on the control unit shown above and that is good. but i dont have a feed to the solenoid in the drivers door? i have a good ground/earth on the black wire, but no power on either the green/white and the yellow. i have checked continuety to control module on these wires and its good and not going to ground. am i correct in saying its looking like a fault with cdl control module? and can they be repaired?


nathan
 

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They can be repaired. Dismantle the box and resolder every solder joint on the board. If that sorts it, you're done, otherwise you have to start diagnosing the connections both within the door and in front of the door hinge. Do the locks work with the alarm fob?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
this is the intersting bit, the car did not come with any fobs and there is no wiring for a reciever, however the is a hole in the middle of the centre console which has clearly had a led in at some point for a alarm.

nathan
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ive taken the circuit board out of the control unit housing to try resoldering, and have noticed one of resistors is grey and the other six are white, could this be my problem or am i just being a idiot:confused:
 

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Probably unlikely. Get a magnifier (or a pair of off-the-shelf reading glasses (I got a set with +4 magnification)) and inspect the board closely. You'll likely spot a dry joint or two. You can probably ignore the joints that are lacquered over and just solder those that are exposed. After doing this, reconnect the board (still out of its case), being careful to connect it the right way around!! Now try the lock and see do you get any reaction. If you do, things are good, if not, you now need to start diagnosing the wiring. Looking in the driver's door, you will either have a 5-wire motor connected to the lock or just a 3-wire switch. In each case, the 3-wire bit has a common wire and one lock and one unlock wire. Shorting the common to one or other of these wires should trigger the controller. Identify these wires at the door end, at the connector block in the wing just in front of the door hinge and at the controller. Short the appropriate locking two at the controller and see does it work. Try the unlocking pair. If it works there, you have to diagnose the wiring. Try shorting the same pairs at the door connector and then at the switch connector. Report back...
 

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the saab man said:
this is the intersting bit, the car did not come with any fobs and there is no wiring for a reciever, however the is a hole in the middle of the centre console which has clearly had a led in at some point for a alarm.
If you think back to when these cars were new, aftermarket alarms were _the_ thing to have, especially in what was a really rather flash motor like a 900t.

But those alarms are almost certain to have had "issues" over the intervening decade and a half, with no parts or information available... Pass the bin, bloody thing's getting ripped out...

Mine's got evidence of an ex-alarm, too - marks at the top of the A-pillar trims where ultrasonics were once installed, together with a couple of bits of wire chopped off where they exit the knee-roll. I do wonder if this has contributed to the dead c/l...

Then you can add in the old CD-changer cabling under the rear seat... And the remains of some bracketry in the boot well...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
right i have resoldered all the joints except those with the protective layer on and my findings are. central locking is still not working from drivers door, how ever, the two large blocks on the circuit board with the windings of wire in, are active when appling pressure to these one unlocks and the other locks all doors and boot with exception of drivers door. could the drivers door solenoid with the door pin going into it be faulty? or is the problem the wiring between drivers door and the contol unit (maybe something ive overloked in above tests some how :confused: ). anyway im going to do what you said above and i will let you know what i find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i done as said on the drivers door locking module and nothing. when earthing the black and powering either white or blue nothing happened. if anything it tripped out my power probe a couple of times. am now 99% sure this is the fault so will replace an let you know how i get on. thanks

nathan
 

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The module in the drivers door...........

in a standard SAAB is NOT a driver/solenoid ( models with alarms may be different). It is a switch assembly that rides or slaves with the lock-unlock actuator only to trigger the central locking to act on the remaining doors and the boot.

My central locking went funny and at the time I added a remote system which meant changing the drivers unit to a motor/switch assembly. When I pulled the door switch out, it fell apart at the bottom where the wires are sealed in.
The connector inside the door was a bit dicey with some evidence of waer corrosion as well. After the new actuator went in and I cleaned the connector, the central locking was functional straight away.

That's one case study.
 
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