[czarmarciales]

Got a 1992 900s for the perfect price of free. It was running, although not great. Lots of white smoke from exhaust. Suspected fluid in combustion chamber, and confirmed when we removed the head and saw a break in the head gasket at cylinder #1 and deterioration in gasket at cylinder #4, both had fluid in them. Pitting and surface damage to head. Milled the head to like new, new gasket, installed everything back. Turned it on and purred like a kitten.
Later that week, getting groceries in the car down the street and the car died at a stop light and would NOT start again. Checked spark it was good. Sprayed starter fluid in combustion chamber and it started and sputtered then died. Cranks strong (good battery and starter) but will NOT fire or run. I just did the bypass at the fuse block as per repair manual (#27 - #30 fuse location to run the fuel pump without turning the car on) and nothing. No clicks or humming from fuel pump. Next step is to check the relay, but it is behind the kick panel on passenger side, and I am taking a break.
- How to remove the stuff I need to remove to get to the pump relay?
- How likely is it wiring vs just a dead or bad pump?
- The car sat without driving for a WHILE before I was able to repair, could this contribute to issues with pump, relays, wiring, some, or all of the above?
- Most of my experience is with old (pre-73) American cars and VWs. Fuel injection is new to me.
I have been searching for threads to help, but it is taking time to navigate.

THanks in advance.

 

[Jim Mesthene]

When you jump it at the fuse, you eliminate relays & such.
All that's left is the pump and wiring. You can check for power and ground with a test light.

 

[czarmarciales]

When you jump it at the fuse, you eliminate relays & such.
All that's left is the pump and wiring. You can check for power and ground with a test light.

Where do I check for power and ground? Are you talking about disconnecting wires at the pump, and then connecting to a 12v bulb? I have a non-contact voltmeter, but it took a dump. Would a tool like that be adequate enough to test?

Trying to pour through the manual and threads as well. My father says fuel pump, but I am trying to start with the simplest and least expensive fixes first.

So, jumping the fuses bypasses all the relays, then testing the relays is moot since bypassing them nothing worked anyway, right? The problem seems to point to wiring and/or pump.

 

[czarmarciales]

Update:

Got the car running, kind of. As I was testing FI for a signal with noid light, I had already disconnected the wiring from CPS to the rest of the wiring harness in order to begin testing. When I cranked the car, it fired right up. I shut it off and reattached the FI connector and made sure everything was connected. Turned it on and it fired up and purred like a kitten. I let it run for a minute and then started making sure the CPS wiring was not making contact with the pulley and when I jiggled the wires it IMMEDIATELY DIED!. So, it seems apparent that I have found the issue: bad CPS wiring (with maybe failing CPS). So I ordered a new one with wires included today and now I wait for the "3-5 business day shipping" (in Alaska 3-5 business day shipping doesn't mean much as far as accuracy). Thanks to everyone for all your help. I have a much better understanding of the Electronic Ignition and Fuel Injection systems now. I am not an expert at all, but I definitely know more than I did when I started.

Thanks again.