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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up a 1991 900S and I can't believe the condition it is in. Purchased from the same owner for the past 18 years, garage kept, lovingly maintained. The top is in perfect condition, the paint is nearly flawless and there isn't a spot of rust anywhere on the car and the taillights don't have any typical crazing or cracks.

There are a few issues from not being driven as regularly that I will need to address like a tune up, base line all the fluids, a new exhaust is needed as are new tires. The motor needs a new valve cover gasket and the driver's window doesn't go down. The interior needs attention and I will eventually replace all the leather like I did in my turbo vert. Of course the carpets will come out and be re-dyed.

Oh, and the brake lights don't work. The third brake light does, but not the main ones. And I have done the added ground mod. Not sure what is next.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the heads up on the oil cap. I did notice the difference in color between my turbo and the S. And just to confirm, the 900S didn't get a different oil filler cap than the more common turbos?

Seems like the "S" cars don't get as much "love" as the turbos and even worse, though not for me, is this car is an automatic. The real selling point for me was the overall condition of the car. Hell, even the glove box door isn't blistering.

I worked on the taillights all day yesterday, cleaning the contacts, adding the extra ground to the driver's circuit board, is it also worth it to add and extra ground on the passenger's circuit board, and I still can't get anything other than the third brake light to work. I read the third brake light and "regular" brake lights are on the same circuit, so it shouldn't be a fuse, or the brake light switch. And I confirmed all the bulbs were good. I need to do some more diagnosing with my multi meter and continuity light. If there is power at the connector that is not getting through the circuit board can I bypass the connector and run a jumper wire?
 

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Thanks for the heads up on the oil cap. I did notice the difference in color between my turbo and the S. And just to confirm, the 900S didn't get a different oil filler cap than the more common turbos?

Seems like the "S" cars don't get as much "love" as the turbos and even worse, though not for me, is this car is an automatic. The real selling point for me was the overall condition of the car. Hell, even the glove box door isn't blistering.

I worked on the taillights all day yesterday, cleaning the contacts, adding the extra ground to the driver's circuit board, is it also worth it to add and extra ground on the passenger's circuit board, and I still can't get anything other than the third brake light to work. I read the third brake light and "regular" brake lights are on the same circuit, so it shouldn't be a fuse, or the brake light switch. And I confirmed all the bulbs were good. I need to do some more diagnosing with my multi meter and continuity light. If there is power at the connector that is not getting through the circuit board can I bypass the connector and run a jumper wire?
Its not unusual for that connector to be damaged as a result of arcing , for sure , identify the track for Positive, Self tap into it and bridge back to the positive upstream of the connector , Before you do , check for 12 v at the lamp holder , the globe may be not seating correctly , or the contact tab that hits the bottom of the globe needs to bent forward or cleaned , they fatigue in there spring and may noy be making good contact .
 

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Thanks for the heads up on the oil cap. I did notice the difference in color between my turbo and the S. And just to confirm, the 900S didn't get a different oil filler cap than the more common turbos?

Seems like the "S" cars don't get as much "love" as the turbos and even worse, though not for me, is this car is an automatic. The real selling point for me was the overall condition of the car. Hell, even the glove box door isn't blistering.

I worked on the taillights all day yesterday, cleaning the contacts, adding the extra ground to the driver's circuit board, is it also worth it to add and extra ground on the passenger's circuit board, and I still can't get anything other than the third brake light to work. I read the third brake light and "regular" brake lights are on the same circuit, so it shouldn't be a fuse, or the brake light switch. And I confirmed all the bulbs were good. I need to do some more diagnosing with my multi meter and continuity light. If there is power at the connector that is not getting through the circuit board can I bypass the connector and run a jumper wire?
I have an "S" with a manual and love it. Having a manual definitely makes it fun to drive and the sound of the engine going up through the gears is incredible. You can always convert it over if you wanted to in the future.

Gorgeous car. Black was my second option if I didn't find the Ruby Red.

Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
It seems the circuit/plastic connector to the brake light is no good. I jumped from the red brake wire across to the corresponding "trace" and the brake lights worked fine. I now just need to splice in a permanent jumper wire.

I also confirmed there is just a slight difference between the older red dipstick low and max lines when compared to my newer black dip stick. I now know where it should be, but will eventually source the correct dipstick.

Agreed that the manual would be more sporty, but I am happy with the auto given how nice the rest of the car is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Swapped out the original wheels and just picked the car up from the detailers who buffed and waxed the paint. The previous owner painted something in his garage without covering the car and there was light overspray all over the car. Thankfully the detailer was able to buff it out.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Prior to being put away before Winter arrives I did a drain, fill, repeat on the auto transmission. The fluid that came out was very brownish red in color and with 128,000 miles on the odometer who knows when it was replaced last. There was evidence that the drain plug had been removed before, so hopefully this wasn't the first service. Each drain and refill took 3 quarts and I did it twice before refilling for good. The fluid from the second drain was much cleaner. When the car comes out of storage in the spring I'll flush again and replace the filter. The car also got a fresh oil change.

Dipstick after putting around 30 miles on the car after the fluid drain and fill. It feels like the car shifts much smoother now, but maybe that is just psychological. And yes I know, a paper towel isn't the best to wipe the trans dipstick with, but that was what was handy.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I had to replace the valve cover. I would guess that the gasket was leaking and instead of replacing the gasket someone just cranked down on the bolts which resulted in two of the bosses to crack. These cracks allowed oil to seep into the spark plug area. The replacement cover was thoroughly cleaned and then given a wrinkle coat finish. I let the coating dry for a few weeks and then scraped off the top "wrinkle" layer with a razor blade in a gasket scraper followed by some sanding with a vibrating sander. The bare aluminum was given a coat of ACF-50 to prevent oxidation.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
And simple enough to replace. The old gasket was well past its pliable days.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good eye Mimmi and thank you. And of course I didn't coat the other side with the wrinkle finish, so guess what my first project is this morning at 7:30 while enjoying my Saturday morning coffee?
 
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Very nice. I'm at the very end of restoring my 88 Saab Spg. I have Ceramic Brake pads front and rear to put on. I am stopped until Sat, when the upper and lower ball joints are due to come in. The drivers side upper ball joint rubber was cracked and the age of the item, with the amount of miles,(200,000 +), I deemed it prudent to change all 4 and the bolts that hold them in place. Enclosed is a picture Automotive side marker light Wheel Automotive parking light Car Vehicle
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That car is mint, but a word of caution... It looks like it has an 8v oil dipstick in there .. they had a red cap. If so, it will read incorrectly and that could make you very unhappy.
Hum, I just read this. My 1985 16 V has a red cap and has been that way for the 10 years I have owned it. Is there a part number to compare or other indicator of a problem? When I do an oil change it takes right around 4 qts to fill to the full line after a start, so I don't think it is reading high or low.
I don't use a qt between oil changes, so what ever damage is supposed to happen doesn't seam to have happened.
 
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