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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello

My saab at times loses power(deosnt stall) and goes really sluggish and it doesnt seam to matter how hard I step on the pedal.
It takes it 3-5 seconds then it seems like it registers the gas pedal or gas being shot into the car and kicks back into action.

And the car is not reving so it's not my clutch plate.

I need [email protected]

Please.

This is the main problem my car is having, otherwise it rruns liek a champ.

-Glen
 

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throttle position sensor nackered?? check lead connection is good, you will still open butterly but will not get any instruction to add fuel as well, hence delay and struggle, or the ecu is on way out
check all vac lines thoguh for air leak but it must be a big one=pipe off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mass Air Flow or Blw/Wastegate as well?

Do you think mass air flow as well or blow off/wastegate?

Thanks for your quick rresponse. I love this car. It runs great just hit 200
can't wait to get it to 300.

Sincerely,

-Glen
 

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It could be to a MAF sensor, however the TPS sounds more likely. The Throttle Position Sensor is directly related to the opening of the throttle butterfly.
 

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busted connector on distributor / hall-sensor
 

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I'm having the exact same issue on my '87T. Most obvious in 3rd & 4th. If I absolutely floor it after shifting up from 2nd to 3rd and subsequently 3rd to 4th it's not as noticeable. But something is def. wrong.

Thanks board gurus. Will start with the TPS.

Could the TPS have anything to do with my dying rev's (stalling) on cold mornings? I have to stab the gas before I hit the brakes or the thing dies. Then stab gas, brake some more (repeat) - then it's a turd off the line...
 

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I'm having the exact same issue on my '87T. Most obvious in 3rd & 4th. If I absolutely floor it after shifting up from 2nd to 3rd and subsequently 3rd to 4th it's not as noticeable. But something is def. wrong.

Thanks board gurus. Will start with the TPS.
I doubt it... TPS on that car is just a switch, one switch for idle to tell the car to maintain idle with AIC valve and then another switch at the end to turn off the A/C at WOT and tell ECU it is at WOT. I don't think any "middle" output is given by it.

LH 2.4.2 on the 2.1 litre engine 1991-94 this has a "potentiometer" TPS that gives a true % reading to ECU.

Could the TPS have anything to do with my dying rev's (stalling) on cold mornings? I have to stab the gas before I hit the brakes or the thing dies. Then stab gas, brake some more (repeat) - then it's a turd off the line...
Maybe if it isn't working right to tell the car "ok, now idle". To check adjustment just turn the throttle wheel slightly and listen for the click of the switch. If you hear it right away then it is properly adjusted, and you can check if the contact is good with a DVOM on the pins inside, I don't know which pins you want, but it is safe you'd want at least two of the three to have 0 ohms (or reasonably low) resistance at closed throttle and infinity at open throttle. I'd suspect the AMM first though for that one, try unplugging it and see how car runs. Could also be the NTC sensor (blue thing between the injectors), check resistance with the car cold and compare against the tables posted here elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A Little More Help

It could be to a MAF sensor, however the TPS sounds more likely. The Throttle Position Sensor is directly related to the opening of the throttle butterfly.
Any ideas where to start from this problem

I had more problem to list.

1)There are times where if I revved it up to 4 or 5 it would drop down and die on me.

2)Also for somereason everytime I use the turbo at high RPM
it blow my brake light fuse.

I know the two are interconncected and it may potentionally disable my turbo.

Is this true and what could be the problem with the reason the brake light fuse keeps getting blown?

I find myself continually replacing the fuse.

Sincerely,

Glen
 
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