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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi Guys.

I have a 89 turbo that needs some love and I was preparing to start doing some work on it and I decided to started so that I can move out the garage so that I can clean up the space to start working on the top replacement and the interior but the car starts but is to weak to actually run.

I swapped from the parts car :

ICM
AIC
AAM
Battery
Coil
spark plugs
and I got another ECU from a working car.

After changing those components the car still runs pretty rough and it doesn't accelerate at all like if there wasn't enough gas or pressure.

Then I tried to fill up the tank to see if it was the pre pump but nothing ( I have like 40 L of gas on it now).

The car starts after some cranking and then keeps running rough but when I try to accelerate the car you can feel that is trying but it does'n accelerate and normally dies after few second when trying to accelerate it.

I don't have the instruments panel on it because I was doing a complete restoration and the car was running fine few month ago but while running one day start running rough and it never got better.

There is some instances where you can feel that the car will come back to full power but it only last few second and then returns to bad.

I got a fuel filter and a fuel pressure gage so I will try to change the filter but I don't know how and where to test with the fuel pressure gage ?

I just uploaded a video to youtube : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVymiM_VJ3M&feature=youtu.be

Thanks.
 

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if the dash is off, are any of the heater direction vac pipes off, as this will causes permanent leak chack all other pipes and oil cap
 

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Did you block boost gage line on the dash? Also do you have criuse control? Vacuum switches under the dash by the brake pedal on LHD vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did you block boost gage line on the dash? Also do you have criuse control? Vacuum switches under the dash by the brake pedal on LHD vehicles.
No I didn't block any line on the dash.

I have cruise control.( there is anyway to disable it ?)

Vacuum switch ? can you elaborate a bit more ?
 

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Do you have a Bentley manual? If so, look up cruise control and boost control switches that are vacuum operated. Several are attached to the brake pedal, dash, and certain cruise functions are vacuum operated. If you do not have a Bentley, I would plug the line that came off of your turbo gage and see if that makes a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I actually have the Bentley.

Now , do you really think that a vacuum leak will make it idle so poorly ?

I'm asking this because I try to replicate the problem with vacuum lines in my SPG and I never got it to run that bad.
 

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You need to plug the line running to the boost gauge.

You also need to block the center line that fits over the vacuum controlled air diffuser switch if you have the air diffuser part of the dash disassembled.

The 2 of those are massive enough vacuum leaks to cause running problems. Well sorry they do in my car.

You can isolate all the vacuum lines in the engine bay by plugging them with bolts. The vacuum line for the cruise runs down the left wheel arch. The right side is where the vacuum lines run into the dash you can plug them there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I will try that.

Now one thing to add is that the car was running perfectly 7 month ago and the day that I was moving I decided to drive to the new house and it was running fine for like 2 min and then start doing this from one second to the other and I didn't have the instrument panel in, just like it is right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
can someone change the subject from Convertuble to convertible ?
freaking spanglish!!!!

One day I will get it right.
 

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I will try that.

Now one thing to add is that the car was running perfectly 7 month ago and the day that I was moving I decided to drive to the new house and it was running fine for like 2 min and then start doing this from one second to the other and I didn't have the instrument panel in, just like it is right now.
Erm I just realised if you don't have the instrument panel in at all then you won't have energised the alt/charging system, and so you may be getting battery drain. A dead/failing battery can cause rough running, loss of power etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Are you saying that without the panel the car will not get energized ?

so then in the panel is there a connection responsible for the whole charging system ?

I'm running the car with a battery booster of 100A, I think that it should be enough, or not ?
 

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Are you saying that without the panel the car will not get energized ?

so then in the panel is there a connection responsible for the whole charging system ?

I'm running the car with a battery booster of 100A, I think that it should be enough, or not ?
As far as I know, yes it will not charge the battery, maybe it will at higher RPM with full load (lights on) I don't know, but technically the charge light energises the alternator and tells it to charge the battery, if my understanding is correct.

I'd put the instrument panel in, it's only 2 plugs, see if your problem goes away after 20mins of driving. Or alternatively you could just put a battery tester on the battery at idle (without the instrument panel ) to see the charging voltage/amps

What do you mean a battery booster? If you're talking about what I think you are then you're doing it wrong. A battery booster is designed to deliver high current for like .5 of a second or so, It's a fast discharge system to get the car started, it is not designed to act like a battery providing continual sustained voltage/current into the battery/car system.

If I'm not mistaken you could damage the unit by using it to 'run' the car not to mention possibly voltage spiking the electrics. Plus they are not meant to be left on once the car is started as the alt can damage the batteries inside the booster by trying to charge them (meant to be trickle charged by DC or 12v cig lighter (low amp), whether this would lead to failure or something serious like an explosion I don't know, I just wouldn't ever do it.

Unless your instruction manual says it's ok (which I doubt) to use it in this way I wouldn't do it any more.

I could be wrong about this, but my experiences with those packs and what they're designed for in Australia is as stated above.
 

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As far as I know, yes it will not charge the battery, maybe it will at higher RPM with full load (lights on) I don't know, but technically the charge light energises the alternator and tells it to charge the battery, if my understanding is correct.
x2 It will energize the field above 2krpm or so but below that you need the "idiot light" to complete the charge circuit. And yes, a low battery will have the car running rough if it's running off bat power.
 

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Normally without the warning light it will not charge until you get to about 2k as you say. Occasionally there's enough residual magnetism to kick-start it at idle without a light. But once it's charging, it will remain charging, even at idle.

There is no other connection for the charging circuit in the dash apart from the light, and as you can see, that's not essential.

If you wish to simulate the warning light you can connect a small low wattage 12v bulb from the alt. field windings (small push-on connector) to ground. This should get it charging at idle if the alt. is working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I understand now, I will connect the instrument panel and test again.

When I used the name "Battery booster" I was referring to this things that have a real battery inside and in fact mine is 350A and is not connected to the power outlet when running and it only has a connection for a power supply so the you can recharge it and as far as I know you could leave them connected and run them as a battery.
 

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The car should run fine with the boost line open, I mean there is a leak but it isn't a lot.

Go look at all those rubber couplers on the turbo piping, it sounds like a BIG leak not a little thing.
 

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Do you have ethanol in your gas? How old is the gas? How close to the ocean do you live?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I don't have idea if I have ethanol in the gas, I bought 87 to fill it up to test and maybe it has some percentage of ethanol I guess.

I leave about 20 min from and inlet and 35 min to the beach and open sea in in a hilly area.

Why ?
 
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