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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
  1. I have a 1988 900s non turbo manual trans 222k miles. I’ve had the car for half a year and I’ve been fixing it for some time now. It has a salvaged title which I think is due to flood damage so of course the electrical is now messed up. Runs solid besides a air fuel ratio learning fault but that’s not too bad. Bought the car for $380 did some clutch work and now I’m about $1000 deep into it. The last issues I have are all electrical. I’ll list everything out.
  2. When I put the car in reverse it blows fuse 13. “Back up light, cigarette lighter 20A” the cigarette lighter works until I put the car in reverse and bam fuse gone. The reverse lights have been replaced and they don’t even pop on for a second when I do this.
  3. The automatic seat belts don’t work I’ve lifted up the back seat and it looks like maybe a relay is missing and the PO just disabled them. Not sure what to be looking for but will most likely convert to regular seat belts like everyone else. So this problem isn’t a big deal
  4. This is my most important concern. The tachometer and the fuel gauge flicker occasionally and sometimes both work perfect after a while of driving. I can hit a bump and one stops working ect. I’ve checked the cluster and even repaired the illumination lights on it but no luck with the tach and fuel gauge. I’ve ran a 12v battery to every little connection on the ribbon and every light comes in and gauges jump so that must mean the cluster itself is ok. What I’ve seen to narrow it down to is either some kind of sensor that reads for the two like the float for the fuel is bad or what reads rpm in the engine. I’d like to know what sensor is the rpm sensor in the saab I have tried to research but I couldn’t find anything. Also if I hit the top of the dash the gauge barely jumps for the rpm and when I turn the left turn blinker on the gauge jumps a little too.

  5. Any help is greatly appreciated I currently am a student on spring break and any kind of information or things to check I will do and update once done. Thank you
  6. 272132
    272133
    272134
 

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On my phone, but a quick answer is that the EZK module provides the signal for the tach. It also provides a pulse for the fuel injection computer, on the same wire, so if the car runs that wire is 99.9% ok. Most likely the plastic flexi circuit is a little janky, but it could also just be dead gauges. The tach in my 1985 SPG pops back to life occasionally, and it's definitely the gauge itself. The instrument cluster is pretty modular, so you might try replacing the tach itself.

The gas gauge is probably the sender in the tank. Does the low fuel light work?

Dead mouse belts are pretty much a given. I agree - jettisoning them is the best approach.
 

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Replace the reverse light switch, ensuring the small washer-like spacer is in place.
Try tightening the little nuts that hold the temp/fuel gauge to the foil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
On my phone, but a quick answer is that the EZK module provides the signal for the tach. It also provides a pulse for the fuel injection computer, on the same wire, so if the car runs that wire is 99.9% ok. Most likely the plastic flexi circuit is a little janky, but it could also just be dead gauges. The tach in my 1985 SPG pops back to life occasionally, and it's definitely the gauge itself. The instrument cluster is pretty modular, so you might try replacing the tach itself.

The gas gauge is probably the sender in the tank. Does the low fuel light work?

Dead mouse belts are pretty much a given. I agree - jettisoning them is the best approach.
The low fuel light has never came on. It could just be the blue plastic ribbon. I’m going to look into getting a replacement for that now. Could it also just be the pins that touch the end of the ribbon? I did put dielectric grease on the ribbon already but that didn’t change anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Replace the reverse light switch, ensuring the small washer-like spacer is in place.
Try tightening the little nuts that hold the temp/fuel gauge to the foil.
I tried that one before, loosened them off and cleaned under where they touch too. I also took off the reverse key lock so that could be why the fuse blows. I don’t care for the reverse lights but the cigarette lighter would be nice for accessories, I might just wire that up to the radio or to the battery.
 

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The low fuel light has never came on. It could just be the blue plastic ribbon. I’m going to look into getting a replacement for that now. Could it also just be the pins that touch the end of the ribbon? I did put dielectric grease on the ribbon already but that didn’t change anything.
Dielectric grease is the opposite of what you want.. that's an insulator and will REDUCE contact. The purpose of that grease is to keep moisture out of electrical connections, not to improve them.

Definitely inspect the ribbon for breakage, and you can test for correct power at the tips or the screw terminals. The actual tach signal is difficult to test for without an oscilloscope.
 
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