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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am back from college, i finally awoke the beast, let it warm up, took it for a drive down my street and back. car ran perfectly then coming back up the hill driving in first at 5mph, punched it (didnt drop the clutch did it from a rolling start) it just revved up and made some terrible noise, i drove halfway back in reverse then drove back in 2nd and 3rd gear. did i break shifting linkage or did i blow first gear in the tranny?
 

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i am back from college, i finally awoke the beast, let it warm up, took it for a drive down my street and back. car ran perfectly then coming back up the hill driving in first at 5mph, punched it (didnt drop the clutch did it from a rolling start) it just revved up and made some terrible noise, i drove halfway back in reverse then drove back in 2nd and 3rd gear. did i break shifting linkage or did i blow first gear in the tranny?
It's not as common as other gears, but you may have a bad syncro. Can you get into first when the engine is off or from a stop? Does it pop out of first afterwards? If the linkage was bad, you'd not be able to get into other gears, so I'd say your problem probably lies inside the transmission itself. Are you in Seattle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i can put the clutch in, put it in first and let the clutch out with some gas, and it just does not move and makes a clanky kind of noise. is is possible just to blow the first gear in my tranny or is the syncro busted so no power is applied. i can start off in 2nd gear though which i find kind of funny if there was a problem with the tranny.
 

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It sounds like your 1st gear has gone. Starting from second isn't really a big deal. I do it every once in a while and find these gearboxes forgiving when it comes to starting in lower rpms in any gear. 5th gear at 1200 rpms and it doesn't yell at me like my 9-3 did. :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i understand starting in second isnt a big deal, i had a stick before this, i just figured if my tranny was shot, i wouldnt be able to shift at all. well now comes the interesting part.... are spg tranny's and normal 5 speed trannys the same? would you recommend rebuilding the one i have now or buying a junkyard one. is there a way to regear my transmission for more moderen speed limits?
 

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Your first gear synchros are shot. If the others aren't grinding are giving you trouble, just start saving for a new box/rebuild and it'll make your life a whole lot easier.

SPG gearboxes are exactly the same as all the other ones. I believe they figured it out and started to beef them up a bit in 1989(?), maybe '90, but you can bolt any c900 gearbox to any c900 engine, so in that sense they're all the same. A rebuild might be the way to go, that way you know the condition it is in, rather than having to guess when the yard one will go out.

As far as gearing, I think if you find a set of Euro primaries and put them in while you're doing your rebuild your ratios will be more similar to modern cars, but having the odd ratios is what makes the c900 cool in my opinion. :cool:
 

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i understand starting in second isnt a big deal, i had a stick before this, i just figured if my tranny was shot, i wouldnt be able to shift at all. well now comes the interesting part.... are spg tranny's and normal 5 speed trannys the same? would you recommend rebuilding the one i have now or buying a junkyard one. is there a way to regear my transmission for more moderen speed limits?
There are many variances between transmission, but for a given year the SPG transmission was the same as the hydrolic transmission used on the standard turbos (some were not hydrolic mounts, but solid instead). The internal workings varied with the specific box number, but you'd be able to use pretty much any that you'd like.

If you are mechanically inclined, rebuilding the transmission yourself is not that expensive and would be a more known quantity than a junkyard transmission. That said, I've encountered a couple decent junkyard transmissions so they are out there. The problem is that you need to be knowledgable enough to identify a good one from a bad one without the car running. Gaining this knowledge would take the same steps as just learning to rebuild your own transmission and the cost and effort of getting a used transmission is approximately equal to that of removing and rebuilding one IMHO. Plus, getting a good working used transmission requires timing while rebuilding your own does not. There is nothing wrong with a solid used transmission, but getting your hands on one is an entirely different matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
how much do you think it would run for me to rebuild the tranny myself? minus well do the clutch too? what all can i acheive at the same time as doing the transmission. trying to kill 2+ birds with one stone
 

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how much do you think it would run for me to rebuild the tranny myself? minus well do the clutch too? what all can i acheive at the same time as doing the transmission. trying to kill 2+ birds with one stone
It really depends on how all out you want to go. For all the bearings, you'd probably be looking at somewhere around $250. There are some bearings that may still be in serviceable condition, so you may be able to reduce that a bit, but you'd still need to figure maybe $200 to make it reliable for the long term. You'd also want to replace the syncro springs and retainers with new and replace any syncros that are worn. That is difficult to determine without opening the transmission up. There may be other damage to the 1st gear itself, which would also have to be determined by examining it. For those parts other than the springs and the retainers, I'd suggest some really good used components since new ones are VERY expensive.

There are a lot of thing you COULD do while you're there, but usually budget issues prevail and none of them get done. On the extreme end, you can rebuilt the engine and add some performance items such as a 2.1L head. The basic things that you might consider which don't cost an arm and a leg would be seals that are normally hard to get to such as the front main seal and the front oil pump gasket. The waterpump is also inexpensive (around $40) and could be easily replaced along with flushing out the coolant system since you've drained it anyways. It would also be a good opportunity to have a close look at your steering rack hoses or replace the rack itself. Around the clutch area you would replace the rear main seal, the pilot bearing (in the flywheel), the clutch slave, the release bearing (this is a bit expensive at around $100), and the clutch shaft seal.

All in all, I'd say you can probably do the job for anywhere between $400 for just what's needed to get back on the road and $2000 (or more) depending on how much you want to do while you're there, so budget is the real issue.
 
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