Attach a 3-5 foot long clear plastic tube tightly on the bleed screw and put the other end in a jar. You can find the hose at hardware stores for about 15 cents a foot. I use clear hose with an inner diameter of 3/16 inch. It fits tightly on the slave bleed screw, and it's not difficult to attach with needle nose pliers. I use a pickle jar with a hole in the metal lid for the plastic line. The idea is to prevent air from going back into the bleed screw and to be able to see air being forced out of the clutch hydraulic system. The bleed screw should be loosened with a deep socket before attaching the plastic line. Keep the bleed screw finger tight.
Make sure the brake fluid reservoir is completely filled with brake fluid.
Cut a bicycle inner tube, tie a knot on one end, and put the other end over the brake fluid reservoir (with the reservoir cap removed). Use a hose clamp secure the inner tube on the reservoir. Inflate the inner tube with a bicycle pump. (Alternatively, you can blow into the inner tube while holding the valve open with a screw driver. Wrap the inner tube around your hand to add pressure for the next step.)
Loosen the bleed screw about 1/4 to 1/2 turns. It should have the clear tube attached. You will see air and brake fluid escape from the clear tube, which will collect in the jar or container. Go inside the car and pump the clutch pedal several times. Check that the brake fluid reservoir has enough fluid, otherwise you'll get more air in the system and have to start over. Inflate the tube some more, pump the pedal more. After a few minutes of this, tighten the bleed screw ( a little more than hand tight) and press the clutch pedal a few times. It should feel normal. If not, keep bleeding the clutch by repeating the above steps. When the pedal feels normal, retighten the bleed screw with a deep socket, but don't over tighten! Put everything else back together and test drive the car.