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My 2006 Saab 9-3 2.8l ss manual won't start. I pulled in my inclined driveway two weeks ago and came out the next morning and got nothing but "steering wheel locked pull key..." I've replaced battery (750 cca) 12v and removed and cleaned ignition switch w/ battery disconnected. Ignition switch does not click but TWICE red ring blinks and central locking and lighting work. Lights work, accessories work. When I turn ism to "on" I hear a relay under or in front of glove box energize. Not starter relay. The night I parked I came in at a weird angle to avoid an obstacle so my steering wheel was not straight ahead when it locked. I've also rolled the car back about three feet and was able to turn the steering wheel about 90° ccw and then rolled her back again to get it straight ahead. So now I'm stumped. Could it be uec, cim, scl, ism still, bcm, or ecu? Or could it be a twice problem considering I locked at a weird angle. Any help is appreciated before I swallow my pride and have to see it flat bedded to the Chevy dealer for Tech 2 testing.
 

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My only theory will be that the Fiber Optic loop is damaged, for me it happens when u pull the Radio\Stereo Unit, there is those wires there, they pass light, fiber optics, if u dont connect them to the unit the car will not start, that will be my only idea, but cant really help with how to check it, maybe pull it out and see if everything ok with the Fiber Optic connection, maybe it snaped out of the unit or something

BTW also this is why u cant replace the Radio unit with a aftermarket stereo, u only can replace the cd changer

Good luck M8 ^^
 

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Thanks for the quick response. Funny you should suggest the o-bus because commuting the 30mins home -bored- I was adjusting audio settings and pushed all 6 cd buttons on the CD player (which I haven't touched in the 18months I've owned it). Coincidence or SAAB? Thanks again.
 

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haha, the cd changer has no effect, u can unplug it, it will still start, but i also tough, have u checked ur fuses? can be a burn fuse or a rely that dosent work...give it a quick look...
 

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I checked fuse continuity the day it wouldn't start. I checked again today and found maxi fuse #35 blown in uec. Wis says it's for brake vacuum booster and radiator fan. ??? Wis also says it's 30A and I pulled out a 40. Amp. I also got my wife and kids (they feel my pain) to push it forward to check for tension on the steering column and get it closer to my garage. Don't want the neighbors saying anything about it being a SAAB. I'm going to replace the fuse and go from there. The new Wal-Mart battery was being drained to 10v everyday so the fuse is either going to fix it or I'm back to square 1. I might have a couple things going on. I blame it on EMP.
 

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Fixed

Problem solved. After checking every relay, fuse, and switch I swapped out the ISM-nothing. Solenoid click. Bridged the battery disconnect switch and heard the starter engage. Battery disconnect switch was the problem. With the heat from the exhaust and turbo and battery corrosion caused by poor venting, the switch was gone. Not only was the switch dead but after 100k miles the positive battery terminal was so heavily corroded that it had scary high resistance. Bought a new battery terminal with 0/1 and 4 gauge side by side and with a little spit, duct tape, and bubblegum there's 1 BA SAAB back on the road!
 

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Problem solved. After checking every relay, fuse, and switch I swapped out the ISM-nothing. Solenoid click. Bridged the battery disconnect switch and heard the starter engage. Battery disconnect switch was the problem. With the heat from the exhaust and turbo and battery corrosion caused by poor venting, the switch was gone. Not only was the switch dead but after 100k miles the positive battery terminal was so heavily corroded that it had scary high resistance. Bought a new battery terminal with 0/1 and 4 gauge side by side and with a little spit, duct tape, and bubblegum there's 1 BA SAAB back on the road!
I Juust noticed your last post before this one was in October. Did it take u this long to get the problem fixed, or did uu just decide 2 months later to post about it being fixed? Lol. Either way, glad u got her going again.
 

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patience

It took me two months. Lmfao. Sigh. Driving my wife's Odyssey. Which is a pretty powerful beast in its own right with the right, right foot. I wasn't in a rush and was determined not to have her towed or mis-diagnosed by a "mechanic". Hope my troubleshooting helps somebody out there that's scratching their head combing every website and over thinking the problem like I did. I did learn some fancy new acronyms. Ism, cim, scl, bcm, uec, wis, twice. My other cars had things like key, turn, start, drive. But where's the fun in that?
 

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Well that is good to know. During hot summer days, it happened twice to my wife that the switch tripped. Im thinking that maybe in the long term it will one day fail for real. Since it is a 2006 too.

But what is it anyway? Like a main breaker?
 

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Well that is good to know. During hot summer days, it happened twice to my wife that the switch tripped. Im thinking that maybe in the long term it will one day fail for real. Since it is a 2006 too.

But what is it anyway? Like a main breaker?
It is supposed to be a crash disconnect device to minimize electrical fire potential IIRC.
 
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