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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi all--

i recently had a leak from my valve cover gasket, the dealer replaced the gasket and i was leak free for about a month. recentely i have started to leak and it appears worse than before. i am about to do an oil change and was reading about some options here, and i am thinking about re-torquing my head bolts. i have about 80k miles on my car, but was unsure of the sequence to use when re-torquing these bolts. any help would be appreciated......
 

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Do not touch your head bolts as they don't affect your valve cover problem. There is no sequence for tightening valve cover bolts.

Are you sure the leak is from the valve cover?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i am fairly sure as i can see the oil leak out the back of the engine on top. i need to know the recommended torque for these bolts so as to not overtighten.
 

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This is from the WIS. If you put a good sealant on the gasket, it should take care of your problem. Good luck.

 

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Tightening the bolts a bit (valve cover bolts, not the head bolts which you won't be able to see, anyhow) isn't a bad idea. But remember, 8 foot pounds isn't very much . As noted, there's no particular order, but try to start in the middle and alternate sides as you work your way out.

But...if you paid the dealer to do it, I would just take it back. If it really is the valve cover gasket, they probably did something wrong - it's easy to mess these up. The gaskets are actually big, floppy O rings that are wicked hard to get lined up right.

I'd suggest not using any gasket sealers, by the way. Sometimes these can plug tiny passages. They do make a gasket dressing that can hold stuff in place. But just go back to the dealer :D
 

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Check the valve cover vent line which feeds into the turbo. This is part number 12791599 on my car (2003 2.0T). This line clamps onto the left rear upper corner of the valve cover as you face engine. It is "S" shaped and bends around the large intake pipe which feeds the turbo compressor. You can see it in Dex4's picture from the WIS, although it is small.

This vent line directs crankcase gases to the turbo in high load conditions. When the car is "on boost" the PCV valve is closed and intake manifold pressure is high. Crankcase pressure is also high. The crankcase gases get routed out the valve cover vent line to the inlet side of the turbo, which is at negative pressure. If the valve cover vent is blocked or twisted in such a way that it collapses, high crankcase pressure will look for the easiest exit, typically blowing a hole in the valve cover gasket.

Under "no boost" conditions crankcase gases get drawn through the PCV valve into the intake manifold. The PCV valve is an internal part on our intake manifolds, and is not serviceable.

Here, I found a picture with the valve cover vent line shown. Middle left in the photo, made of EACM.
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=777860&postcount=8
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i want to make sure i'm tightening the right bolts, but i believe the valve cover bolts in the back (there are 4 i believe), not sure about the front. i will give it a try and post results here. problem with the dealer re-doing the work is the dealer has since gone bankrupt (was a gm dealer) and now we have no saab service center in town. i will try these options and see where i am at, thanks for all the suggestions......
 
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