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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi friends. I've been searching around for a tierod end replacement walkthrough, as i've never done one before. I understand this is novice DIY work, but was hoping someone might point me toward a step-by-step to make the process go more smoothly.

Thanks!
 

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Just did it on my 03 simple

Jack car
Remove tire
Loosen nut that retains to the inner( only back it ust of, you can use it to "eye" up where the new rod shoudl go)
Remove nut on the tie rod pin in the axel
Use a screw driver ( or tie rod fork- its worth the $15 investment) to pry the joint off the hub
Take it off.
Put the new on on, back it up to the same position as the old one.
Tghten the nut on to fix the tie rod
Tighten the nut on the rod in the hub, you may ned to press down hard so it does nto turn while you do this.
TIghten to 75 ft bls.

Align car - it wil be out ad depending on the new end it coudl be way out.

www.fixmysaab.com has pics

I got my ends at rock auto, check my thread they were 8 bucks each plus 8 to ship a bargain ( get 2, your other is probably bad too and since you will pay to get it aligned and buy/borrow the fork, do them both and be done with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Corrosion...

Great, thanks for that info.

Ended up cutting the lock nut off, as it was totally seized.

Now, the tie rod end is seized to the inner tie rod (i think this is actually common in VT with the state trucks turning the highways into salty rivers during winter).

For you northerners out there, can I remove the seized TRE, or should I replace the WHOLE tierod assembly?

And... is it difficult to replace the inner tie rod?

Thanks!
 

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Great, thanks for that info.

Ended up cutting the lock nut off, as it was totally seized.

Now, the tie rod end is seized to the inner tie rod (i think this is actually common in VT with the state trucks turning the highways into salty rivers during winter).

For you northerners out there, can I remove the seized TRE, or should I replace the WHOLE tierod assembly?

And... is it difficult to replace the inner tie rod?

Thanks!
Did you soak it in PB blaster and then try?

I did one inner too, not so bad its a bit of a bear to get to. I would buy a 10 adjsutable with a 1 1/4 open end to get it up in there. You need to run the rack in, but you can't go all the way you need to be able to get a bite on it so you have to have it out an inch or so, but nicely, the OEM had flats all over it ( my Febi repalcement I used did not so it may be a bear to get to in the future hopefully I wonlt have to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, so just to follow up...

PB blaster did nothing for this one. The tierod end was so seized that it took a mapp-gas torch at full flame for 5 minutes (heating the pi$$ out of it!) to get it to where a cheater ball could work it free.

Then, in order to get the new nut on, the entire threadpitch had to be dressed with a triangular file. Whew... glad that's over with.

Thanks for your help.

One note for getting the new end on; the nut on the outer end will pinch the thread once it's fully on; i used a c-clamp to hold the ball joint down whilst turning the nut on.
 
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