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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, my Cassidy II, a 6 cyl autobox developed a leak in the metal portion of the rear power steering hose, high pressure line (w/banjo bolt). I've got a ProParts Swed replacement en-route.
Anyone done this? As is true for numerous parts on this, it's in a damnable place.
WIS describes dropping the Sub-Frame from the Body! ... by .."remove the rear engine mounting nut"..."detach rear muffler from catalytic converter... and rear exhaust manifold and swing and strap to the side"... "Mark the position of the sub-frame relative to the body"... "remove the reinforcement plates" ... "slowly (no sh#t) lower the sub-frame. Use a pillar jack"... Well I like an adventure as much as the next guy, buttttt...I've got jack stands positioned at the forward jack points on the body, do I place my lift jack under the sub-frame cross member or the oil pan? What do I mark? Is there a lot of play in replacing the reinforcement plates? I'm a bit nervous and flummoxed here.
Any experienced fellow traveler thoughts are MOST Welcomed. Thanx! Rick
 

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Where is the leak?

I have had luck patching the power steering hose by cutting out the leaking section and replacing with hydraulic hose connections rather then removing/replacing the hoses.
.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Bob, It's the rear high pressure line. The one you can see the accordion=like heat shield over when you look under the hood, down behind the passenger side motor, between the alternator and the firewall.It rides on top of the sub-frame cross member forward of the oil pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Oh, and the leak was in the metal line, result of 160K miles of rubbing against the axil brase
 

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If the rest of the hose is still intact (not rusty) then I would cut out the bad piece, take a section of it to a hydraulics store (so you have the proper size with you) and mock up a patch with compression fittings.

A lot easier then removing and replacing the whole thing.

Saab 052.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanx, I didn't know compression fittings were strong enough for high pressure hydraulic lines. As you see, my hole was at the apex of a bend. I now have the whole line so I'm committed to replacement. I'm just lowering, not removing, the subframe for access and not exactly clear where WIS places the 'pillar jack' for lowering.
pwr strng line.jpg
 

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On a 2.3 model it is do-able in the car without dropping the subframe but what a pain. Lower the subframe, unbolt the steering rack, replace the entire line to the pump, tighten the nuts on the line, re-install the steering rack bolts to the subframe, re-install the subframe .
The line is two piece, replace the entire line as the coupling usually won't come apart if you are located in the rust belt. It is a pain to get the line in place also because of the bends.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
V, ur right it is a PITA, on further inspection the subframe bushings ore torn and a couple control arm bushings are torn, soooo..In For a Penny, In For a Pound....I've ordered the poly subframe bushings, control arm bushings and an alternator while I'm in the neighborhood...a WAY bigger fix than I had started, but as long as I'm in there on Cassidy II with 160K miles on her!
 
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