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Discussion Starter #1
On a late night in July I ran over something on the interstate that knocked a huge hole in my oil pan. I pulled over as quickly as I could but it damaged the engine. I pulled my damaged engine out from the top which was surprisingly easy. I bought a replacement engine and I am just about ready to put the new engine in the car. My old engine and transmission had 250000 miles on it. I replaced the slave clutch and friction disk. Should I bleed the slave before I attach the transmission to the engine? What is the best method to bleed the clutch for these cars? I’ve done several c900 clutch jobs and they are easy. I made a pressure bleeder with a bicycle air pump for my 900’s. Never done a 9-5 any advice would be welcomed.
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Ouch! (on the hole in the pan)

you must bleed the slave before you put the transmission on the engine. What you have to do is get it full of fluid so that you can finish the bleed when you have the engine in

Connect a long piece of clear tubing to the slave. push the release bearing in by hand and then fill the tubing with fluid. Then use a bicycle pump (or very low pressure compressed air) to force that fluid into the slave, which will the release bearing back out. Then push it back in, which will force air into the tube. Once you have no air coming out you're done and it's full. have the air pres it back out and then you're good to go.

BTW, I'm shocked that you were able to get that thing out of there with that much space between the hoist and the engine. you can't get it up high enough to clear the front of the car.
 

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Oh, and one other thing. When you put it back, take the throttle body off. That plastic solenoid on the back of the TB is really fragile and if you get it caught on the firewall it will break!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok thanks for the information. To remove the engine from the top you have to detach the hood struts so that the hood can extend to its highest point. Then tie it back with straps. I had Saab repair guys tell me that it couldn’t be pulled from the top, not enough clearance etc. once everything was unhooked it lifted right out.
 

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yea, I knew about the hood struts. without doing that there is no chance. But I'm surprised they got it up and out with those long straps. I had mine about 3" above the valve cover and still had issues dragging the engine forward a couple of inches, then up, then forward and up, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It was really tight coming over the front end. I will take your advice and shorten the straps when I put the engine back. I am a little concerned over this clutch bleeding. I don’t want to have to take things apart once I get the engine back in. I am going to try and follow what you said in your earlier post.
 

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yea, it was kind of a stressful part when I did my first one. Like I said you need a piece of clear tubing to fill up and get the bubbles out. take your time and you'll get it done.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I finally attached the transmission and placed the engine back into the car. Attaching the transmission was a real challenge. I had to go and get a transmission lift, slid right in ! Not to difficult reinstalling the engine. Now I just have to reattach all the connections. It has take much longer than I thought, 7 months but now that we have spring weather hopefully i will rap this up in the next few weeks. Really miss driving this car.
 

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'04 9-5 Aero Wgn, '01 9-5 Aero, '90 C900
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Glad you posted up these pics! I have an 04 Aero wagon (auto) that needs the engine pulled; I was debating as well about taking it out from the top.
Im wondering about the size of auto vs the manual trans. Unclemiltie or others with experience pulling these - is it possible to get the engine out the top with trans attached?
 

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Glad you posted up these pics! I have an 04 Aero wagon (auto) that needs the engine pulled; I was debating as well about taking it out from the top.
Im wondering about the size of auto vs the manual trans. Unclemiltie or others with experience pulling these - is it possible to get the engine out the top with trans attached?
you can pull the engine from an auto transmission without the transmission coming out. there is JUST enough room to do it. It's actually a good bit easier since you don't have to unbolt suspension to remove the axles.

The trick is unbolting the lower alternator bracket from the engine and leaving it in the car with the axle and intermediate shaft. One of the bolts is a pain to get out since it's blocked by the inner driver. So you have to take the other ones out and then loosen that bolt, pry the brakes away from the block, loosen more, pry, loosen, etc.


you have to unbolt the transmission mount and shove the transmission over a couple of inches to make it come out, the pull is much more straight-up. sit the transmission on a piece of 2x4 on the subframe to make pushing easier.

I've written about this topic in the past so search for all of what you have to do.
 

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'04 9-5 Aero Wgn, '01 9-5 Aero, '90 C900
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Great, thank you for the quick response! I had considered moving the trans over, but leaving the alt bracket in the car definitely makes sense. I'll definitely do some searching on SC, just found this great resource.
 

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yea the alt bracket holds the bearing and intermediate shaft for the right side drive so either the drive has to come out or the bracket has to be disconnected.

What stays on the engine: turbo, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, upper alt bracket and even the frame for the motor mount can stay on.
What has to come off: alternator, starter, AC compressor (hang on a strap so you don't have to re-charge) and the PS pump.

you need to use something wedged through the bottom hole of the transmission to keep the torque converter in place after you've unbolted it from the flex plate. There's a nub on the end of the torque converter that is about an inch long that has to come out of the crankshaft so a slight up tilt with the crank pulley end will help with this. The flex plate sticks into the transmission about 3/4 inch so that's why you have to move the transmission. Then pretty much straight up from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Xlr99 there is a great step by step write up on serious Saab that has pictures and a easy to follow format that will help you as well as unclemiltie’s advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I’ve got clutch! I was really worried about bleeding and pressurizing the clutch. Thanks unclemiltie I followed your advice and it worked well. All of the gears engage but the shifter is a little off so I will have to adjust it. I’m getting close to starting it, hopefully in the next few days.
 

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The manual is nice, I love manual cars in general so I am super happy and refuse to own an auto. If you're looking for a sporty tight shifter feel, it's far from it. It's a bit more vague but has a lot of character. But I do like the manual in it a lot, makes that motor feel more alive! Cool you have a 9-5 too! Autos are still good on these cars. I believe I do have the overboost function, something I'll have to look into.
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If you're looking for a sporty tight shifter feel, it's far from it.
Welcome aboard!

You might want to consider investing in a short shifter, it takes four or five hours to install but it's a super cheap awesome upgrade for the 9-5.

I've done it twice and about to move it to my third 9-5..

Most excellent free bonus is you can delete the goofy reverse lock out while you do the swap.

Crisp clean shifts with the new geometry.

 

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Discussion Starter #19
It lives !!! Finally started the wagon today. Started on the second turn of the key. Engine ran smoothly, had a coolant leak at the water pump that I hopefully corrected and a oil leak at the oil cooling lines. Checked the old engine and saw that I hadn’t put the two o rings on the oil cooling lines. I will hopefully correct that tomorrow. Just need to install the axles and see how it drives.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I pulled the oil cooling lines and put on the O rings so no oil leaks or coolant leaks. Let the engine run today to get up to temperature no issues. All that is left to do is put the axles back in. I have the old style axles that have the tripod into the cup. I am having a hard time getting them back in, does anyone have a trick or idea on the process?
 
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