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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have vibration issues that get worse with speed but after every change I've made to correct the issue the vibrations have only gotten slightly better. The vibrations make the whole car shake but not too bad but bad enough to where you know something is wrong. Ive heard convertibles have cowl shake commonly, but I've only begun looking into that as those fixes are actually improvements to OEM design in the vehicle, I am correcting a problem that shouldn't be happening but hey thats why I'm here lol.

So for starters heres whats been done:

Passenger axle was completely replaced (ENTIRE shaft inner to outer completely new, SKF OEM)
Carrier bearing was replaced during pass axle install as well as oil seal
stabilizer end links were replaced
Both left and right motor/trans mounts were replaced

Heres whats been successfully inspected:

1. LCA bushings (TBD, but from initial look id say they are shot)
2. Stanchion bushings (TBD)
3. steering rack bushings I have played with it using a pry bar not sure how much movement is acceptable need input please. I don't suspect much wrong with steering components but they are tied to suspension so I'm eyes and ears
4. Subframe (TBD, not sure what to look for here in the verts the frame is different than the sedans and coups)
5. engine is in perfect working order, no rough idle, revs in park and motor does not move hardly at all no check engine light yet (fingers crossed haven't done a complete drive cycle for all IM indicators)
6. Rear motor mount (TBD, do not know how to test this?)

So, first thing replaced was the left and right motor/trans mounts, that got rid of slop and thunks.

Next was the stabilizer links, no change here as the reasoning for replacement was because i broke one so easily i figured they'd had enough so i got new ones.

Inner CV boot was compromised on passenger axle so I don't F#$% with that S%^&, I bought a brand new OEM (SKF) axle for the passenger side and while in there I replaced the oil seal on the trans and the intermediate carrier bearing, that bearing was grinding when i took it out and spun it by hand. This repair made the most noticeable difference, the vibrations were lessened. I also cleaned the best I could all the grease that shot everywhere from damaged axle.

The drivers side axle when I took it out to replace the oil seal (Driver side) looked like it hadn't been in service very long, boots were good and sealed no signs of axle explosion or grease on that side, this one is a reman because it was stamped "REMAN" on the shaft. I have my doubts on this axle but i put it back in and moved forward with repairs.

Alignment and wheel balance was done just before replacing the passenger axle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just bought the reinforced control arms Pro Parts brand, ill post when they come in the mail on how the car rides after.

My thought process was:

If these bushings fail later on (Pro Parts is not very popular I hear...) at least i will have an easier time pushing in and out the new bushings from powerflex.
 

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Have you checked the wheels for roundness? Just because they are "balanced" doesn't mean they're round (and they may not even be balanced all that well, either). Easiest way is to jack up the back and spin up each rim by hand, and just watch the inside and outside lip.

Obviously old or flat-spotted tires can cause shaking as well.

The condition of the brake rotors can make a difference. If they have deposits or rough parts, they can catch the pads, and you get shaking (can get worse when you apply the brakes at speed).

Certainly it can't hurt to replace suspension bushings, but bushings by themselves don't cause shake. They just damp down shaking (or not, if they're worn).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you checked the wheels for roundness? Just because they are "balanced" doesn't mean they're round (and they may not even be balanced all that well, either). Easiest way is to jack up the back and spin up each rim by hand, and just watch the inside and outside lip.

Obviously old or flat-spotted tires can cause shaking as well.

The condition of the brake rotors can make a difference. If they have deposits or rough parts, they can catch the pads, and you get shaking (can get worse when you apply the brakes at speed).

Certainly it can't hurt to replace suspension bushings, but bushings by themselves don't cause shake. They just damp down shaking (or not, if they're worn).
Ive a suspicion that its the driver side axle, i just grabbed both axles and cave em a good shake, no play...not sure its the inner driver bushing inside the trans the vibrations do not pull the car left or right so im not sure its steering related either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Have you checked the wheels for roundness? Just because they are "balanced" doesn't mean they're round (and they may not even be balanced all that well, either). Easiest way is to jack up the back and spin up each rim by hand, and just watch the inside and outside lip.

Obviously old or flat-spotted tires can cause shaking as well.

The condition of the brake rotors can make a difference. If they have deposits or rough parts, they can catch the pads, and you get shaking (can get worse when you apply the brakes at speed).

Certainly it can't hurt to replace suspension bushings, but bushings by themselves don't cause shake. They just damp down shaking (or not, if they're worn).
There are new pads and rotor braking is smooth no pedal vibes when i step on the brakes
 

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your looking for vibrations thru mechanical items ,your first needs to be your tires and rims/balance, that will give you vibrations up the ying yang. if your not sure on the current rims you have find a Saab friend to swap for a test would be the way to go, If all else swap the backs to the fronts and note any change and or get a roadforce balance to first check
the condition of your current rims and just how outawack they are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
your looking for vibrations thru mechanical items ,your first needs to be your tires and rims/balance, that will give you vibrations up the ying yang. if your not sure on the current rims you have find a Saab friend to swap for a test would be the way to go, If all else swap the backs to the fronts and note any change and or get a roadforce balance to first check
the condition of your current rims and just how outawack they are.
I have swapped the fronts and rears, tires were rotated, balanced and an alignment was performed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Im pretty sure my control arm bushings are empty the bottom you can see straight into the fluid cavity all the way around, plastic protection cover is missing too...rubber is all sorts of gone and have movement with a prybar.

ill post results on Sunday when i have time to install them.
 

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03 vert se-sports pkg, 01 viggen vert
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Find a tire shop that will let you view your wheels spinning on the balancer. Most tire techs dont watch the rims spin. Ive found several bent wheels that multiple shops have said "were fine" by watching it myself. I finally found a place that lets me view the balancing process 1st hand
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Find a tire shop that will let you view your wheels spinning on the balancer. Most tire techs dont watch the rims spin. Ive found several bent wheels that multiple shops have said "were fine" by watching it myself. I finally found a place that lets me view the balancing process 1st hand
I still think i should repair the obvious first, i havent replaced anything that wasnt broke or not needed, there was always a cause for replacement if the control arms dont resolve then i completely agree to look into this as a cause
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Bicycle part Automotive tire Gear Wood Rim

Light Blue Automotive tire Bicycle part Gear

Wood Bicycle part Gear Gas Auto part

Gear Wood Bicycle part Circle Auto part

These are the old control arms, the bottoms were missing the covers...the photos are with them off. Im extremely uoset in the false misleading eeuroparts.com listing for them, pro parts with blue poly or reinforced as it stated and showed in the photo. Instead i recieved OEM style control arms...i installed anyway.

Results after installation were road vibration dampening is better but the damn vibrations are still there, ill get a diagnosis from Firestone for the suspension.

Is there any possibility it could be the strut mounts? Or anything strut related?

Maybe im confusing the vibrations with the phenomenon called cowl shake that happens with convertibles? Ive never driven a convertible before other than my friends 2005 M3 Vert.
 

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03 vert se-sports pkg, 01 viggen vert
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Good call replacing control arms. OG Verts are super sensitive. Bad strut mpunts will pop over speedbumps & potholes. View your wheels & tires spinning on a balancer
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Good call replacing control arms. OG Verts are super sensitive. Bad strut mpunts will pop over speedbumps & potholes. View your wheels & tires spinning on a balancer
Rode it into work today still there but the new control arms are definitely dampening the vibrations but i can still feel it. I was doing 67 top speed. If i went to 75 itd feel like i made no progress. I will know get the rims and tires inspected, they have moved them from front to rear before with little to no difference so dont know what ill be finding. I checked for tire plugs but repairs appear to not have been made to these tires.
 

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Like I said, if you have the ability to jack up the car and swap wheels, put one after another of the wheels on one of the back positions (it should spin reasonably freely) and look for wobbles or dents.

I have seen used OEM Saab rim sets with two or three rims bent or warped. I did not buy them.

Also, what rims and tires are you running? OEM Saab? 15" or 16" (I presume 16")? What tires? Do you feel the vibration through the seat, or through the steering wheel?
 

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if you fill in where your located, we may know someone close by, as if you were near me I have sets in the garage ready to go that I know have no vibrations. (well under 100 anyway)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Like I said, if you have the ability to jack up the car and swap wheels, put one after another of the wheels on one of the back positions (it should spin reasonably freely) and look for wobbles or dents.

I have seen used OEM Saab rim sets with two or three rims bent or warped. I did not buy them.

Also, what rims and tires are you running? OEM Saab? 15" or 16" (I presume 16")? What tires? Do you feel the vibration through the seat, or through the steering wheel?
The vibrations transfer into the chassis not just the steering wheel, so yes i can feel it in the seat.
 

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03 vert se-sports pkg, 01 viggen vert
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I have 3 sets of saab oem wheels & 9 out of the 12 are bent one way or another. I gave up & bought brand new aftermarkets with 3 yrs warranty & new tires. Finally, it was vibration free after almost 3 yrs. Now that the tires are at 1/2 tread the vibrations are coming back!!
 
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