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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple of weeks ago I replaced the lower control arms, rotated/ balanced the tires, had an alignment done and set off for a 400 mile trip.
About 100 miles in I beginning hearing a sound similar to a loose or severely out of balance tire. I pull over, remove the front tires and inspect.
Nothing visibly wrong.
So, I continue on with the stereo just a little louder (Going home is not an option, the trip must be completed)

http://youtu.be/_YJop73iyDw

upon returning home I put the car back on the rack and inspect. The front right bearing is shot. While I'm in here I may as well check a few other things...

http://youtu.be/caFtl6S9dyw

I hate randomly replacing parts. The items I replaced (except the bearing and CV axle) have been on my todo list for a bit.

I end up replacing (as the parts are worn):
RF: rotors/ pads, bearing, stanchion bushing, outer CV axle and sway bar end link.
LF: rotors/ pads, stanchion bushing, transmission mount, rear hydrolic motor mount and sway bar end link.

The tires are showing signs of cracking/ dry rot (plenty of tread though). I have rotated the tires and the sound did not follow to the rear. These will be replaced soon regardless.

Yes, the ridiculous sound is still there. I cannot hear it outside the vehicle which makes things even harder to diagnose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I had a chance to put it back on the rack.

There is a bit of play in the driver-side CV axle - I expect this though. There does not seem to be any play in the hub/ bearing though.

I pulled the driver side wheel, caliper and rotor. I put it in gear and let it run. There was a distinctive difference left/ right especially noticeable at the strut mount (no, the wheels are straight). Long story short, I will be replacing the bearing

http://youtu.be/2Ck9X08yAyo
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
[/rant on]

I hate the local mechanics! They charge way too much for what are otherwise simple tasks.

Example one: Press out stanchion arm bushing x2; insert poly bushing x2 == 50$
* Really, your press work is that good and your time (15 minutes) is that valuable? *

Example two: Hey, what is this ridiculous sound my car makes?

shop: It is *not* the LF bearing. Though we will gladly replace it with your part for $160. We can try and flush the tranny ($150). If that does not work you will need to replace/ rebuild the tranny $$$

Christ-on-a-stick

Awaiting my bearing press ... I'll just do it myself and all future bearings for me and my friends and their friends at 1/3 the rate.

[/rant off]
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's about the going rate for machine shop work with a press, nothing outrageous, you can always buy yourself a press and it will pay for itself after about 20-30 jobs.
The guys I'm referring to aren't machinists. They are mechanics- subtle difference, I know.
Even if I go cheap with: http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html and only get two jobs done with it I end up saving money.
Heck I could even get http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html and save even more.

Just upsets me these guys get away with charging so much for labour especially after 50% - 100% parts markup.
I suppose if I were a full time mechanic I might feel different about my time in the shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm going through kinda this same problem, LMK what it was.. I got all sorts of noises coming from my RF
what is "LMK"?

I really hate front end noises.
There are a few which are generally easy: Bearing (If it squeals like it should), CV joint (pop when turning), thrust bearing (weird clack when turning the steering wheel), Strut (clunk over bumps).

Otherwise sounds travel every where, even with a stethoscope it can be difficult to narrow things down.
 

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Just upsets me these guys get away with charging so much for labour especially after 50% - 100% parts markup.
I suppose if I were a full time mechanic I might feel different about my time in the shop.
I hear that. I took my struts to a guy (30 years as a Saab shop) to press in new front bearings. Charged me $100 for the work.

When I got them back, I could tell he hadn't supported the bearing properly when pressing as the two halves were separating and there was play in the hub mechanism. I went back and he re-pressed it, but I think the bearing was damaged... I'm getting some noise that I think is a bearing again.

If your bearings were recently done, you can probably use that "on car" tool HF sells. If they had been in there a long time, you might need the 20 ton. Sometimes they are very hard to get out and a big press is needed.
 

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That creaking noise sounds an awful lot like mine. I've got new sway bar bushings for it, just not the time and energy to install them. Dropping the subframe is not my idea of a fun weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
That creaking noise sounds an awful lot like mine. I've got new sway bar bushings for it, just not the time and energy to install them. Dropping the subframe is not my idea of a fun weekend.
I doubt it's sway bar bushings in my case as the sound is rotational and occurs loaded/ unloaded.
It would be an easy enough test, though, as you do not need to drop the whole subframe.
Loosen the aft and middle bolts, give it a yank and you'll have the clearance needed to change them.
I even thought about the bushings as I was loosening the four bolts...
I suppose if I had planned better I would have ordered new sway bar bushings and done it when I replaced the rear motor mount.

Bear in mind that the aft bolt that goes through the stanchion is into the cabin pan. If it is severely rusted and you break the bolt, you will be cutting into the floor from the inside to remove it. ;oops:
The nut is 1/2 inch thick weirdness tack-welded in three spots.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/12310813293/
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Sure did. Take a look at the pics. The steering knuckle is still attached to the car.
In short, here is what I did:
1) Lift the car
2) Remove tire
3) Remove brake caliper (leave everything in there - 17mm x2 removes the assembly)
4) Remove the rotor
5) Remove axle nut
6) Drop the control arm from the sub frame (leave it attached to the steering knuckle)
7) Push out the axle
8) Pull the hub
9) Pull the outer bearing race from the hub (it will come out with the hub)
10) Press out the bearing
11) Press in the bearing
12) Press in the hub
13) Replace axle
14) Re-attach control arm to the sub frame
15) Re-attach rotor
16) Re-attach brake caliper
17) Mount Tire
18) Drive!
 

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what is "LMK"?

I really hate front end noises.
There are a few which are generally easy: Bearing (If it squeals like it should), CV joint (pop when turning), thrust bearing (weird clack when turning the steering wheel), Strut (clunk over bumps).

Otherwise sounds travel every where, even with a stethoscope it can be difficult to narrow things down.
Great job! nice pics... I hope I don't have to go through that. Sorry, I meant Let Me Know as previously mentioned,
I had the clunk repaired that with an upper strut mount, I have new lower control arms I'm waiting to put on. Just have to find a t55 torx for the stantion bar thingy.

my Front end squeak video

http://youtu.be/AfmMbeGsohs
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
... Just have to find a t55 torx for the stantion bar thingy.

my Front end squeak video

http://youtu.be/AfmMbeGsohs
Found the t55:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/18pc-1-4-3-...-SET-T10-T55-ON-2-SNAP-IN-RAILS-/151227186215

The squeak... Jeez-ees. It does sound like it may be in suspension. Very hard to tell. I trust you have put that on some stands (or a lift) and done some playing.

I'd start with the strut mounts and work through the pieces. The video sounds vaguely like a spring or bushing.

Probably be best to start a new thread from here. I am curious.
 

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Found the t55:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/18pc-1-4-3-...-SET-T10-T55-ON-2-SNAP-IN-RAILS-/151227186215

The squeak... Jeez-ees. It does sound like it may be in suspension. Very hard to tell. I trust you have put that on some stands (or a lift) and done some playing.

I'd start with the strut mounts and work through the pieces. The video sounds vaguely like a spring or bushing.

Probably be best to start a new thread from here. I am curious.
Cool, Thanks I think I'll get that from ebay, along with a front end Puller kit,
I did new upper mounts last week along with my new konis and Votgland springs.

I haven't tried jacking it up and letting it run. great idea! when I push in the clutch, the sound goes away..

maybe the rubber boot rubbing on something?
 

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Sure did. Take a look at the pics. The steering knuckle is still attached to the car.
Ah, missed the photos. Very nice. Good to know that it works... I will do mine that way some time soon instead of paying some doof to mess up my new bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
...when I push in the clutch, the sound goes away..

maybe the rubber boot rubbing on something?
Very weird. Are you sure it's not coincidence that what ever causes the squeek may not be occurring at the time you push the clutch? Or are you suggesting that the squeek does not occur when you coast at speed with the clutch pushed in?

From you video, the squeek seemed to occur when you hit bumps. Am I missing something?
 
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