SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Where to begin... So I’ve been dealing with the stalling issue for over a year now. I have to always mess with it to get it to start in some parking lots. Other lots and my yard, it starts and runs like a champ. I had the fuel pump replaced a year ago, which I’m suspicious it was some kindve botched job.

I feel it all depends on what angle the vehicle is parked at. As the car starts fine in different parking lots. just recently, it started to stall while driving and sometime idling with the air condition on. i could really use some help and opinions from some Saab enthusiasts.

I’ve replaced the MAF, CPS, PCV valve and hoses with no avail.
Maybe throttle body?

Here’s a video. V

Fresh after a stall on the road
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
Well then, if its an 01' you can check the fuel pressure at the rail, these cars only need 3 things to run, fuel, cps signal,and good spark. throttle bodies will idle but sometimes give you "flat" spots but that's about it, If it hasn't ever been running fine there's always that possibility that the injectors are partially clogged but you did say other times "it runs like a champ" One other thought, when was the last time you put fuel in it, maybe you have some water in the tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Well then, if its an 01' you can check the fuel pressure at the rail, these cars only need 3 things to run, fuel, cps signal,and good spark. throttle bodies will idle but sometimes give you "flat" spots but that's about it, If it hasn't ever been running fine there's always that possibility that the injectors are partially clogged but you did say other times "it runs like a champ" One other thought, when was the last time you put fuel in it, maybe you have some water in the tank.
Then perhaps it may be the spark. i fueled up two days ago and only ever run 93 octane. I drove it today and no issue while driving. Only when I stopped and turned the car off. Tried to cut it back on and stalled 3 times before cutting back on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
when you changed the cps did you make sure you got out the old O ring?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,468 Posts
I think you need to be more systematic in checking out the angle angle. If it's always at a certain tilt, then you still have a mystery, but some items can be ruled out--in fact, a lot of the 'usual suspects' would not be likely the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
404 Posts
ok, something cheap to try. Get a heavy duty on-off switch and about 3 feet of high current wire - 40-amp will do. Put a spade connector on two wire ends and connect them both to the switch, have it hang out under the dash where you can reach it.

Then remove the fuel pump relay and put your spade connectors into the relay sockets relating to the switched contacts. use the manual switch to turn on the fuel pump as you start the car up, and turn it off to shut down.

If it works properly like this the problem is the relay or the connection to the relay from the ECU. its not unknown for these cars to have problems with the transistor in the ECU that drives the fuel pump relay
 

·
Registered
2000 93 Vert Auto : 2001 93 Vert Manual
Joined
·
53 Posts
I have/had a similar problem. I would have very rough starts when the car was cold and it would stutter when driving down the road. In my case the CPS cleared up most of the issues (yes the new one is Bosch), but there are still some occasional dips in the RPM's when the car is at idle and it feels a little rough when compared to my other Saab.

I just changed the injectors with rebuilt ones and that helped the performance some, but there is still something else.

Using a Bluetooth OBD II reader that records to software on my phone helped me diagnose the CPS as it gave me a Pending Code for the CPS. A pending code does not trigger the Check Engine Light and does not show up when checking codes with the engine not running. I would not have discovered the CPS issue otherwise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
ok, something cheap to try. Get a heavy duty on-off switch and about 3 feet of high current wire - 40-amp will do. Put a spade connector on two wire ends and connect them both to the switch, have it hang out under the dash where you can reach it.

Then remove the fuel pump relay and put your spade connectors into the relay sockets relating to the switched contacts. use the manual switch to turn on the fuel pump as you start the car up, and turn it off to shut down.

If it works properly like this the problem is the relay or the connection to the relay from the ECU. its not unknown for these cars to have problems with the transistor in the ECU that drives the fuel pump relay
Very interesting, I may it this weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Very interesting, I may it this weekend.
Looking on WIS, the fuel pump relay is the same pn as the starter relay and the fuel injectors relay. I'd try swapping the fuel pump relay into the starter relay position and see if it cranks. You can always do that switch test after if necessary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
404 Posts
Looking on WIS, the fuel pump relay is the same pn as the starter relay and the fuel injectors relay. I'd try swapping the fuel pump relay into the starter relay position and see if it cranks. You can always do that switch test after if necessary.
This will not work for the specific issue it targets though. The known problem with these cars is wiring between the ECU output transistor and the fuel pump relay. Only way to isolate that as a cause is remove FP relay and replace with a switch. Swapping two relays where one has a duff relay driver transistor will have absolutely no effect
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
thinking about your situation, you mentioned it stalling while driving, do you mean hey I'm out of fuel and it's a gradual shut down or like someone turned the key off when your doing 50, A lot of electrical issues with these cars are attributed to the ignition switch under the keyset, tabs break off flop around in there all kinds of weird stuff happens. Again another one of those items if it hasn't been changed they seem to go between 120-140k sooner if its city driving with lots of cycles. Just something else to look out for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
This will not work for the specific issue it targets though. The known problem with these cars is wiring between the ECU output transistor and the fuel pump relay. Only way to isolate that as a cause is remove FP relay and replace with a switch. Swapping two relays where one has a duff relay driver transistor will have absolutely no effect
I was just suggesting a quick test to see if the fuel pump relay was indeed working properly. Sure it won’t test everything, but it’s a lot easier than getting all the parts you suggested and assembling a test circuit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Where to begin... So I’ve been dealing with the stalling issue for over a year now. I have to always mess with it to get it to start in some parking lots. Other lots and my yard, it starts and runs like a champ. I had the fuel pump replaced a year ago, which I’m suspicious it was some kindve botched job.

I feel it all depends on what angle the vehicle is parked at. As the car starts fine in different parking lots. just recently, it started to stall while driving and sometime idling with the air condition on. i could really use some help and opinions from some Saab enthusiasts.

I’ve replaced the MAF, CPS, PCV valve and hoses with no avail.
Maybe throttle body?

Here’s a video. V

Fresh after a stall on the road
If you can get access to a Tech 2 machine maybe it can diagnose
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Your stalling symptoms all point to varnished fuel clogging the lines and decreased pressure to the rail and injectors. A tech 2 won’t tell ya this

Few cans of sea foam in tank, drive slowly around the block and then let it sit overnight. Varnished gas can be like, well, boogers in your lines
Been there, done that, Got the t shirt

just finished my B205R rebuild.....successfully installed in car yesterday
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Your stalling symptoms all point to varnished fuel clogging the lines and decreased pressure to the rail and injectors. A tech 2 won’t tell ya this

Few cans of sea foam in tank, drive slowly around the block and then let it sit overnight. Varnished gas can be like, well, boogers in your lines
Been there, done that, Got the t shirt

just finished my B205R rebuild.....successfully installed in car yesterday
I’ve done that before but I’ll give it another go.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top