Got rid of another rattle that just popped up.... temp fix - SaabCentral Forums
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9-3 Sedan, Convertible ('04+)/Combi & 9-3X Workshop - ALL Engines 9-3 SportSedan, Convertible ('04+)/Combi & 9-3X, 2003 - 2012 Technical & Repair

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  #1  
Old 18th August 2004
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CallipNCSUsaab CallipNCSUsaab is offline
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Default Got rid of another rattle that just popped up.... temp fix

Okay, so I had this annoying *** rattle all week... found out somehow it was the 2 back seat window switches on the drivers side door.

once I pulled them up with my fingers they quit rattling. I placed some foam in between them for the time being. Cut the bass ALLL the way up.. no rattles.


whats the proper fix for this guys?

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  #2  
Old 18th August 2004
ctrlz ctrlz is offline
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This was a major source of buzz/rattle for me.

I've outlined the problem before. Basically, these switches are pressed in, and if the plastic gives too much during the assembly process, the switches end up having too much free play.

I pulled off the door panel and disassembled the switch module. I then carefully popped out each switch. I got some small self-adhesive felt pads and shaved them down to about 1 mm thickness. I then stuck them on the sides of the housing for the switches, so they always put slight pressure on the toggles and leave NO free play.

As I've said before, I believe the main problem with door noises in the 9-3 is things ON the door panel rattling. Stuffing foam between the door frame and panel just changes the way the panel vibrates.

I also removed the foam liner from one door and Dynamatted the whole thing. Sounds the same as my non-Dynamatted door. Oh, and I still had rattling until I fixed the panel as described above. Dynamat is not the answer.
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  #3  
Old 18th August 2004
kents kents is offline
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Thanks a lot for relaying the Dynamat experience - I've used it before on other vehicles with great success, and was about ready to drop some bucks

-Kent
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  #4  
Old 18th August 2004
LostSkiier LostSkiier is offline
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I don't know what SAAB was thinking when they chose the switches they used, I don't think I've ever seen switches that are as cheaply made.
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  #5  
Old 20th September 2004
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My window switches started to rattle with heavy bass songs this weekend, they must have loosened up as this is the first time I've experienced it.

I will take apart my door handle and apply some double-sided foam tape to the interior switch housing to secure the switches.

Any other suggestions? Do I have to take the entire door panel off?
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  #6  
Old 20th September 2004
ctrlz ctrlz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkJ
My window switches started to rattle with heavy bass songs this weekend, they must have loosened up as this is the first time I've experienced it.

I will take apart my door handle and apply some double-sided foam tape to the interior switch housing to secure the switches.

Any other suggestions? Do I have to take the entire door panel off?
Yes, the door panel has to come off. The switch module is inserted from the inside. You will see how Saab has it taped in place (their idea of long-term stability).

Disassemble the switch module. You will have three main parts: the main housing with the electronics, the membrane keypad, and the switch toggle assembly. I popped each of the four switches out of its "cradle." This was a bit tricky, as the plastic is thin and I didn't want to break it. I used both hands to compress the sides of the switch while a screwdriver applied light tension (basically from the weight of the srewdriver handle). When the sides are compressed enough, the switch will pop loose.

With the plastic switch out of the way you will have plenty of room to work. I used adhesive felt pads about 5 mm in diameter. They were about 2 mm thick, which was too much. I shaved them to about 1 mm, and stuck one on each side of the housing before I popped the switch back in. Shaving the pads requires a fresh razor blade or utility knive. Buy a pack of single edge razor blades. The job is easiest if you have a super sharp blade. The blade loses its edge quickly going through the felt. I used one blade per felt pad.

While you have the door panel off, bang it here and there with your fist. If anything else is loose (more likely EVERYTHING ELSE will be loose), secure it with good tape or similar material. You will discover that many of the little plastic clips for the wiring harnesses are quite loose.
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  #7  
Old 20th September 2004
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Thank a LOT ctrlz for your excellent instructions. The buzz coming from the window switches is enough to drive me crazy. The switches are so cheaply put together it is just about ridiculous.

What kind of adhesive felt pads did you use and where did you purchase them?
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  #8  
Old 20th September 2004
ctrlz ctrlz is offline
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Adhesive pads can be found in many sizes at a hardware store. Usually they come in felt, rubber, or clear silicon. Sometimes nylon, too.

Home Depot and Lowe's also carry them. Look in the aisle for fasteners, near sliding door hardware, castors for furniture, etc.
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  #9  
Old 21st September 2004
ArcGP ArcGP is offline
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Quote:
I believe the main problem with door noises in the 9-3 is things ON the door panel rattling
I feel that I may have similar issues. Despite having my buzz/rattles "corrected" by the dealer at least 3 times, i think that my main buzz source is actually where the wood trim attaches (sp?) to the door panel itself. Some days I can stop the noise by pressing the wood trim, other days I have to push in on the panel itself. Som days there are no noises. It's as unpredictable as my wife was when she was pregnant.

Quote:
I don't think I've ever seen switches that are as cheaply made.
I have an 03 Arc, and my window switches are so quiet, I can actually say I like them, they are nicely styled and don't rattle at all. IMO I don't think they loook as cheap as other parts of the dash.

GP
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