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  #21  
Old 18th December 2006
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PlumLoopy PlumLoopy is offline
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Default My experiences

I'm grateful to this forum for giving me the tools I needed to make the alarm battery repair myself. It literally saved me $370 (accounting for a soldering iron and the batteries).

I wanted to add a few things that might be helpful for others.

The glue on my board was significant enough to pull the coating off of the original batteries when I removed them. Needless to say this was a bit harrowing because I had to pry with significant pressure. All the while you've got to figure out a way to hold your prying instrument, the soldering iron and the circuit board.

I ordered batteries from a supplier using a link I found in another thread here. This yielded the same model batteries with two posts attached each (instead of three). After examining the board, I couldn't see a logical reason for needing three since the two positives went to the same circuit. This may be improper, but I just attached the two and things worked fine. The posts on my batteries were thicker than the originals, so a knife tip was needed to widen the hole slightly and I had to apply a bit of pressure. In addition, the old glue kept the battery from seating properly since applying two posts required mounting the batteries slightly askew.

My circuit board wasn't too pretty either after I was done. But I put it all back and it worked great! This might seem obvious, but before putting the six screws back, before sealing it, before re-mounting it, try reattaching the box and doing a test.

Thanks again. I've not done alot of do-it-yourself work on this car but this was satisfying - especially since I fixed something that was essentially designed to fail.

PL
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  #22  
Old 19th December 2006
bernardc bernardc is offline
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Default What an alarming thread!

First off, don't go anywhere near a lithium battery with a soldering iron. Lithium is a firefighters worst nightmare as once it combusts its nearly impossible to extinguish. Not the sort of thing we would want to deal with as dousing it with water just exacerbates it and produces highly toxic fumes too.

Don't go anywhere near a PCB with a soldering gun or one of those cold-heat thingumajigs, they both can damage sensitive electronic components as they produce high current spikes, so unless you are sure about the components on the siren PCB, DONT.

The solder tags are spot-WELDED to the battery, so attempting to release them from the battery with a soldering iron is both dangerous and useless. The three tags are just an aid to assembly as they indicate polarity (2 +ve and 1 -ve). Just release them from the reverse of the PCB as already mentioned.

Desoldering a two-pin tag will be tricky and in any case its best to desolder components properly. You could use some copper desoldering braid (dirt cheap from an electronics store such as Maplins) or a solder sucker. This will remove all of the old solder which will also ensure any new solder joints are likely to be good. They are likely to be poor joints if old used solder is still present.

These batteries are backup batteries and are therefore only used when your main battery cannot supply power to an enabled alarm system either due to:-
a) Its disconnected
b) Its dead
or
c) a fault prevents power getting to the siren PCB

That is its unlikely that many of the batteries in our cars will ever be used for more than a few moments, so for most of us it should just come down to the batteries shelf life. This is good as the stated shelf life for these types of lithium battery is 10+ years. I have some similar though longer Sanyo Laser Lithium that I bought for a project back in 1987. I got a good deal on a bulk buy and so still have some in a box in the cellar. I recently tested them and they are all still fine after nearly 20 years! Given the less than 1% per annum self discharge for this type of Litium battery, its possible that these batteries will last over 50 years!

The Lithium-Ion batteries mentioned in the thread are secondary or re-chargeable batteries and will self-discharge at a much higher rate, particularly in a warm or hot engine bay. As recharging them is not going to be easy they are not suitable for use here and are still quite expensive.

Standard CR!23 Lithium are very similar in size and type to the CR17335s. They just hold less capacity at about 2/3 of the 17335s. If I ever have to replace mine I intend to solder a couple of battery holders into the space and use the cheap CR123s instead of the 17335s. It just means that if anyone steals the car and disconnects the battery, the siren will go off for say 4 hours rather than 6.

For anyone in the UK, when I was into these things, I used to get all my exotic batteries from a company named "All batteries" in Watford. They are a wholesaler, but had a trade and retail counter at their site. I doubt if there is a battery in existence that they cannot supply. If I want to get 17335s with tags and either get sourcing or cost problems, I will go to All Batteries.
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  #23  
Old 19th December 2006
geekpryde geekpryde is offline
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Unhappy

The "service theft alarm" bug has bitten me! As of this morning, my 2000 9-5 with 69,000 miles is officially a member of this not-too exclusive club. Dealer quoted $400 to replace or $100 to disable. I'm not a brave as you folk here, since I won't be trying the above mentioned DIY fix.

Ever since my certified used warranty ran out a few month ago, these little nightmares are jumping out at me practically every week. Just last week I have to do the $600 PCV "fix", since my oil is disappearing into the netherworld, with no obvious leaks....After 3 Saabs, my loyalty is starting to wane. :-(
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  #24  
Old 29th December 2006
bones349 bones349 is offline
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Default Ignorance is Bliss?

Great thread!! I have been having this error on my SID for probably 2-3 months now. I've just gotten used to clearing it. If it has been going on this long, do you think it is the battery problem, or could it be something else? Ive never had a problem with the alarm going off randomly (although this worries me). Also, the warning only comes on about 60% of the time, otherwise I have no errors.

I guess the only way to know for sure is to take it in to the Tech 2, but I was just wondering if anyone had some insight.
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  #25  
Old 29th December 2006
Fritz Fritz is offline
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Default

I got the module out. What a pita!!! The wheel well collar is some fun! '01 is much more busy then the aforementioned .pdf for the 99.

But in detaching the module, the little clips on the plug break off.
When I put the module back (after hopefully replacing the batts) do I just tape the plug together?

And while we're at it, those who have glued modules, how you break the glue and not the module?

Whats' the little round green thing on the outside of the module?

Last edited by Fritz; 29th December 2006 at 04:41 PM.
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  #26  
Old 30th December 2006
MI-Roger MI-Roger is offline
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Default Answer (partial at least) to your question

I see you are checking at last two Saab owner boards. Since I found the the only previous response to your specific question on this board, I will repost the reply here.

rayyang vbmenu_register("postmenu_815044", true);
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HI Rob
if your car is 98~02, the siren box is use 6 screw to close it, you just need prepare 2 of new batteries to change it
the battery model is Sanyo CR17335HE-R,
But if your car is 03 on, saab use seal the siren box. it's a little difficult to remove the seal.
you should prepare 2 of new batteries and silicone and flat head screwdriver.
at first you need cut the edge of siren box, than use flat head screwdriver to tilted and breakaway the siren box. and don't hurt sirenbox fix place.
after you change new batteries, than you must be completely clean the siren sufaces. and use silicone to seal it. and don't hurry fit it back. you should put some heavy stuff on sirenbox at the least 6 hours to make sure silicone can completely cures and bonds sirenbox to drwatertight.

in Taiwan the battery Sanyo CR17335HE-R is $18 USD. i just change it last week on my 04 9-5
hope this can help you
Last edited by rayyang : 05-11-06 at 01:00 PM.


My understanding from reading the above is that you will need to cut the siren box open along the factory glue line. My recomendation would be to use a Hobbyist Saw (buy from a hobby shop) to cut the plastic box, or a Back Saw or Dovetail Saw (fine woodworking tools) if you already own either of these. Another possibility would be to use a hacksaw with a brand new blade.

All the above have fine teeth and a thin blade.
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  #27  
Old 30th December 2006
Fritz Fritz is offline
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Default

thanks Roger. That's what I figured after trying to Stanley thru the glue.
Since I have the thing out, guess it can't hurt to try. If I shatter the thing, I can always go new.
I did find out that I had destroyed the locking tabs of the plugs clip.
But tape would do there I hope or a tiny dab of super glue.
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  #28  
Old 1st January 2007
born again born again is offline
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Default

I think I would go with hot glue. That way it can be removed in the future.
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  #29  
Old 1st January 2007
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Chris 9-5 Chris 9-5 is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by born again
I think I would go with hot glue. That way it can be removed in the future.
When I customised my "dipstick" I used hot glue.....................very bad idea





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  #30  
Old 2nd January 2007
scotw001 scotw001 is offline
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Unhappy Changed all batteries and still the same.???

I have been having this issue with "service theft alarm" on my 95 (W reg 2000)for a couple of months now. It doesnt come on every time but more often than not. The alarm hasn't gone off but i am concerned after reading the links on this site. I changed the battery in the fob, and then bought the siren batteries and got my local Saab (not dealers) garage to fit them. It is still the same so I went to the dealers and they put the computer into my car. The told me I needed to replace the siren module which is about 165 plus VAT.

Anybody got any other ideas please...?
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  #31  
Old 8th January 2007
magconpres magconpres is offline
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Default

I replaced my batteries and no longer get the SERVICE THEFT ALARM message, but my alarm still goes off for no reason sometimes (though not all night like before ).


For now I'm turning off the motion sensors when I park the car to see if that helps. Odd, I have only noticed this twice, and both thims I was in a store when it went off (car in the parking lot). I don't think it has been going off at home at all. I htink I would be more apt to hear it there since my driveway is close to the front door (much closer than I was parked when out shopping).

mcp
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  #32  
Old 8th January 2007
geekpryde geekpryde is offline
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Saab ought to really do something about this. It's crazy to me that after only 6 years the entire alarm unit would need to be replaced with a cost of around $400.00. It's not like it's a wear item. If this was supposed to last for 10 years, and it's only lasting 6, I would call the units defective. I can stomach chewing $50.00, but not 400. I go to bed each night with my fingers crossed that mine doesnt wake of the entire neighborhood at 3:00am. So far, so good.
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  #33  
Old 9th January 2007
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My local Saab guy (not dealer) says this problem occurs alot when the weather is cold. Sure enough, I think it does only happen to mine below 12'c.

I think Saab should have a serious think about a recall regarding this problem. After all, they recalled mine last month for the faulty DI cassette on my 2000 9-5 2.3t

On looking for batteries, I found this on fleabay:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...0602&rd=1&rd=1

Interesting?
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  #34  
Old 9th January 2007
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valbowski1980 valbowski1980 is offline
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What would happen if I just disconnected the module? Please don't torch me for this, I'm new to the 9-5 world.
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There is a "replacement for displacement".... It's called "forced induction".
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  #35  
Old 10th January 2007
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Your alarm will not be connected, thus no warning siren will sound if some waster tries to tamper with your pride & joy

I'm not sure if the little LED on the top of the dash will flash either (to show alarm is armed)
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  #36  
Old 10th January 2007
MI-Roger MI-Roger is offline
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Default You may have local sources you haven't considered...

Quote:
Originally Posted by euroswill
My local Saab guy (not dealer) says this problem occurs alot when the weather is cold. Sure enough, I think it does only happen to mine below 12'c.

I think Saab should have a serious think about a recall regarding this problem. After all, they recalled mine last month for the faulty DI cassette on my 2000 9-5 2.3t

On looking for batteries, I found this on fleabay:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...0602&rd=1&rd=1

Interesting?

Here in the US there is a franchised company called "Batteries +", or "Batteries Plus", where you can take your dead battery packs for power tools, and other dead battery powered household devices. These stores remove all the defective Ni-Cad or Li-MH cells and solder in new ones. Some of these stores will sell and install the replacement batteries in the Saab siren modules for the owner at a small total cost, maybe $30USD or 15 pounds (please excuse my monetary conversion errors and lack of appropriate symbol on this US keyboard). Since each store is independently owned, some stores do this and others don't, yet. One store owner/manager who declined to provide the service told a unhappy Saab owner that he was the fifth person that month to bring in a siren looking for batteries/repair.

Assuming this business model is not unique to the US and Canada, check with local stores who specialize in repairing battery packs and battery powered tools. You may have a local siren repair source and not realize it.
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  #37  
Old 10th January 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by euroswill
Your alarm will not be connected, thus no warning siren will sound if some waster tries to tamper with your pride & joy

I'm not sure if the little LED on the top of the dash will flash either (to show alarm is armed)
This would be a temporary solution. I was just wondering if it would imobilize the car if I did that?
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There is a "replacement for displacement".... It's called "forced induction".
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  #38  
Old 11th January 2007
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I'll have to check on shops here in the UK for such a service. It seems more user friendly having this service offered in the US. Some tool shops here do offer repair services, so I'll check. Thanks.

Try disconnecting the plug which goes to the alarm module to see if it will affect starting the car. I've not thought of checking it myself.
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  #39  
Old 8th February 2007
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The job is done and was pretty easy. I got the batteries from the local electric shop in New London and the whole thing took maybe 40 minutes to remove, disassemble, pull the old batteries and put the new ones in and lastly to re-assemble.

Here is the valuable (i think) contribution to this thread:
The car will still start and your remote locks will still work if you disconnect the module. And my LED still flashed.
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There is a "replacement for displacement".... It's called "forced induction".

Last edited by valbowski1980; 8th February 2007 at 06:32 PM.
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  #40  
Old 10th February 2007
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Very good news. I'll try the same on mine when the rain stops!

How much & what type of battery did you get? I've been through 3 sets of batteries in a year (C123) camera batteries.
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