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  #541  
Old 14th March 2014
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PettitWC PettitWC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roosterman187 View Post
Someone here mentioned making a proper gasket for the oil pan rather than using the sealant... Autozone sells one on their website; does anyone know if it's any good?
Excellent question!
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  #542  
Old 14th March 2014
TankTak TankTak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PettitWC View Post
Excellent question!
the oil pan gasket will work, but I have also seen them leak over time. I would just use the Anaerobic sealant as that is what is used from the factory. DO NOT use gasket maker or anything of the sort as if you use too much and it gets inside the oil pan it can and will clog the strainer. Anaerobic sealant doesnt hardne except in the absence of air, hence why everyone uses it and lives by it
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  #543  
Old 15th March 2014
roosterman187 roosterman187 is offline
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Cool, thanks. I figure the gasket would be easier to get up onto the block without smearing sealant everywhere (like I did), but if it leaks later then maybe it isn't worth the trouble.
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  #544  
Old 16th March 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TankTak View Post
the oil pan gasket will work, but I have also seen them leak over time. I would just use the Anaerobic sealant as that is what is used from the factory. DO NOT use gasket maker or anything of the sort as if you use too much and it gets inside the oil pan it can and will clog the strainer. Anaerobic sealant doesnt hardne except in the absence of air, hence why everyone uses it and lives by it
Thanks for the tips!
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  #545  
Old 28th March 2014
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FWIW - I just finished replacing the engine in an 02 9-5 Aero that was oil starved. Hole in one piston, all rod bearings spun, cylinder bore destroyed, etc.

There was very little sludge in the crankcase, the pickup screen was hardly clogged. The oil pump looks ok. but the oil pressure relief valve is scored and felt like it was sticking when I took it out.

It's hard to say if someone drove the car with no oil in it or if something else happened. I didn't own the car before the engine "blew" but....



I would suggest that anyone who is taking their pan off to check for sludge take the oil pressure relief valve out and replace it. It's in the same general vicinity on the bottom of the timing cover and it's probably easier to get at it with the pan off. You're ordering the o-rings for the pickup and crossover tube, you should order a relief valve and change it.
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  #546  
Old 14th June 2014
rempi876 rempi876 is offline
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Default 2003 estate 9-5

Hi. I live in Norway. I bought a saab 9-5 2003. Removed the oil pan and found some oil sludge.
cleaned after a QMI engine clean. I took of the valve cover and found some sludge in front of the
timing chain wheels. Also a lot in the oil pick-up. If you want a good tips?? Saab makes the
exhaust pass vefy near the sump. Then its getting very hot in the crank area and the oil gases
making sludge. The best thing to do after cleaning is to heat insulate the cat and pipe under the
oil pan. The pistons rings also let oil gases slip trough the pistons. Saab should have maked a inspecgion cover that aloved cleaning the oil sump. I also saw a blue colour on the crank area!!
You in america that have hot weather, must buy the upgrade crank breathing set and isolate the
exhaust under the oil pan. Good luck!!
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  #547  
Old 18th December 2014
warrior1884 warrior1884 is offline
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Default 9-5 2005

Hi, new Saab owner. I've been reading about this sludge issue and I'm a bit worried. Only had the car a week but when driving home the oil light came on and i got the sid warning tone. Once the car cooled down the warning went away. I was reading that i shouldn't have an problem with it being an 05 plate but it sounds like the same as what some folk are getting with a sludge issue.

John
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  #548  
Old 18th December 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warrior1884 View Post
Hi, new Saab owner. I've been reading about this sludge issue and I'm a bit worried. Only had the car a week but when driving home the oil light came on and i got the sid warning tone. Once the car cooled down the warning went away. I was reading that i shouldn't have an problem with it being an 05 plate but it sounds like the same as what some folk are getting with a sludge issue.

John
not knowing the service history or what type of oil was used I would drop the pan asap and clean it up....heres to hoping you have no issues and its just a bad oil pressure sensor going bad
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  #549  
Old 19th December 2014
warrior1884 warrior1884 is offline
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Default oil

Hi, thanks for a reply. I had a quick look today and it looks like there is oil all over the back of the engine where the oil filler pipe is. Not sure if its a split hose or not, no had time to have a good look. Any issues with burst hoses in that area or is there a valve needing attention?

Thanks
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  #550  
Old 19th December 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warrior1884 View Post
Hi, thanks for a reply. I had a quick look today and it looks like there is oil all over the back of the engine where the oil filler pipe is. Not sure if its a split hose or not, no had time to have a good look. Any issues with burst hoses in that area or is there a valve needing attention?

Thanks
clean it up and keep an eye on it to see where its leaking from. being on the backside makes it a bit harder to determine, it could be oil pressure sensor, timing chain cover, valve cover gasket, could be a number of things so its best to clean it up and observe where its leaking from
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  #551  
Old 19th December 2014
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Oil pressure will reduce significantly when the oil is hot, that's the "designed" point in the system.

For example, Since I have an oil pressure gauge in my 02:

When I start the car the oil pressure is about 80 PSI at idle and pegs my gauge at 100 when driving

About 15 minutes after starting the oil pressure drops to about 40 at idle and then abut 80 when driving

When the oil is at temperature (about a half hour) the pressure is a little over 20 at idle and hits about 55-60 at 3000 RPMs


I've said this before but the oil pressure switch turns the light on at 7 PSI. and just because the light goes off when you hit the throttle or when the oil is cold doesn't mean that you don't have oil starvation. As was recommended, get that oil pan off and check for sludge. If you have sludge and do it now you can probably save the engine. If you don't then you could end up with a much bigger expense in replacing it.
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  #552  
Old 22nd December 2014
egwelke egwelke is offline
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Default 2000 9-5 Wagon, Oil Light and Engine Noise

The other day my oil light came on and the engine started running loud. Then the engine turned off on the freeway. After coasting to the shoulder, I let it rest and it started up so I could get home.
I do drive it short distances quite a bit.
Does this sound like the oil starved by sludge issue?
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  #553  
Old 22nd December 2014
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Sure does

An age-old piece of advice for anyone out there. Oil light comes on, turn the car off and figure out why it's on or don't drive it.
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  #554  
Old 22nd December 2014
egwelke egwelke is offline
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Default Amen

Amen...
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  #555  
Old 22nd December 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unclemiltie View Post
Sure does

An age-old piece of advice for anyone out there. Oil light comes on, turn the car off and figure out why it's on or don't drive it.
Yes...all day, yes
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  #556  
Old 27th December 2014
warrior1884 warrior1884 is offline
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Hi thanks again for the advice. Had a wee look over the festive season and I've found that the car produces the fault code p1110 which seems to be the bov/bypas valve. I noticed after a blip of the throttle under load/driving that the oil filler cap would pop off and put oil everywhere.

So my theory is that if the bov/bypass valve can't release pressure in the engine because it's faulty would it be able to pop the oil filler cap off?

I also have a wee pipe under the throttle body to the right a bit that doesn't seem to connect to anything. There is 2, one is connected but the other isn't.

I have pictures but don't know how to get them on hear. I have ordered a maptun bypass valve to replace the bosch one and some silicone 3mm hoses to replace the degraded ones from the bypass valve.
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  #557  
Old 27th December 2014
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The P1110 is the turbo bypass circuit. It's used to release the boost pressure when you take your foot off the gas and the car is drifting. It has nothing to do with the oil light, t hat's another problem that you really need to figure out before you drive the car.

As for the P1110



There are three parts to this circuit:

1: the bypass solenoid. This is on a bracket below the main engine connector on the firewall. IT has three vacuum lines and one electrical connection going into it.

2: the bypass valve. It is mounted to the charge air tube and is connected to the big aluminum pipe that runs parallel to the radiator on the front of the engine.

3: three vacuum lines. One runs from the port on the throttle body to the left of the two coolant hoses (as you are looking at it from the front of the car) to the bypass solenoid, connection that is on the opposite end from the electrical connector. The second runs from the bypass solenoid on the same end of the electrical connector to a 2-tap port on the intake manifold (there is also a T in that line that goes to the heater control valve) The third runs from the bypass solenoid in the middle to the bypass valve



I'd first check the vacuum lines to see if any are broken or cracked, then replacing the bypass valve and finally the solenoid (in that order, the solenoid has to be drilled out and is more expensive) I keep an extra bypass valve in my garage and pick them up when I'm at the junkyard for $5 or so. But my bet is on the vacuum lines, especially if you haven't changed them yet.
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  #558  
Old 27th December 2014
JohnLear JohnLear is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warrior1884 View Post
I noticed after a blip of the throttle under load/driving that the oil filler cap would pop off and put oil everywhere.
I think these oil filler caps are designed to act as a relief valve in the event of extremely excessive crankcase pressure, which is why they are so unusual (spring loaded rather than a simple screw on cap). So, I think the cap is doing what it's designed to do, but IMO it's a big concern that it is having to.

Some thoughts:

The best case scenario here would be that the cap is faulty, and that the cap spring has failed so is venting at a very low crankcase pressure. I'd be surprised if the spring has failed because it's only lightly loaded and not subjected to any cycles of being compressed / uncompressed other than when the cap is being put on and taken off (push down on top of the cap to feel the spring pressure, it should be firmish and not 'floppy').

So, if it's not the cap itself at fault, then the cap "lifting off" implies a very high crankcase pressure. In turn this implies a failure of the crankcase ventilation system, or a large amount of blow-by gasses entering the crankcase past the piston rings, or that turbo pressure is pressurising the crankcase, or a combination of these things.

A completely blocked crankcase breather could allow blow-by pressure to build up in the crankcase to excessive levels, especially at higher loading when the cylinder pressures (and blow-by) are highest. If the breather isn't breathing then the pressure will find other ways to vent, most probably causing a number of oil leaks before the cap unseats and vents (assuming it's venting at the correct psi).

Note that if any of the larger rubber ventilation hoses have softened they can become 'squishy', and low pressure (partial vacuum) in the cobra pipe can cause the hose to become crushed by atmospheric pressure. If so then this would block gas flow through the hose, and likely only occur under load when driving, when the turbo is 'sucking' reasonably hard. The hose may appear OK when the engine is idling or being given a light load rev, but on the road could become crushed whenever the car is accelerating or being driven at higher speed.

I think you should have a good look at all the breather system components, including al the hoses, the metal tube attached to the cobra pipe, valves, attachment spigots, and the oil separator tank. Everything should be internally clean, and hoses not degraded, softened, cracked, or loosely fitting.

Excessive blow-by suggests a piston ring problem (or maybe a cracked piston?), so a compression check would be in order. Assuming the cap is working correctly, I think it would take a substantially bad ring problem to create that much crankcase pressure, but maybe not if the breather is blocked.

The turbo could be pressurising the crankcase via the small ID rubber vacuum line attached to the throttle body and to the spigot on the cam-box cover (two hoses attach here, this small one and a larger more obvious one). This vacuum line is intended to 'suck' crankcase gasses into the throttle body / manifold when manifold vacuum is strong (at idle, at very light throttle openings, and when rpm are higher but the throttle butterfly is closed). There is a one way valve in the line hose that permits gasses to pass from the crankcase into the throttle body / manifold, but not the other way.

The turbocharger could pressurise the crankcase if the one way valve fitted in this line were to be stuck open. Check it by disconnecting the line hose at one end and blowing / sucking through the hose, you should only be able to make air pass through it in one direction, from the crankcase toward the throttle body. If the other way then the valve is fitted backwards. If both ways then it is stuck open. If no way then it is stuck closed.

Even so, I doubt that the pressurised gasses able to pass through this very small ID hose line would be enough to pressurise the crankcase enough to cause the cap to "lift off" and vent, unless the breather system were nearly completely blocked and blow-by were substantial (pressure added upon pressure).

Quote:
Originally Posted by warrior1884 View Post
I also have a wee pipe under the throttle body to the right a bit that doesn't seem to connect to anything. There is 2, one is connected but the other isn't.
It's unclear to me which "wee pipes" you are referring to, but there are two vacuum hose lines attached to a spigot on top of the inlet manifold (to the right of the throttle body as you look at the engine from the front of the car). One of these hoses (the one attached lower on the spigot) passes to the fuel pressure regulator, the other (attached higher on the spigot) passes to an ECU controlled valve located on the firewall.

This valve has two other vacuum hoses attached, one that basses to the pressure by-pass valve (mounted on the induction tube), and the other which passes to the throttle body. If the hose attached to the spigot on the manifold is detached then you will have a significant induction air leak at this point (both vacuum and boost pressure).

A lot of people alter the manner in which these hoses are connected. It wouldn't be surprising to find all the vacuum hoses disconnected from the valve on the firewall, and instead for the hose attached to the throttle body to be deleted (and the TB spigot capped), and for the by-pass valve to be directly connected to the spigot on the manifold. This modification improves throttle response somewhat at the possible cost of the by-pass valve becoming a bit noisy.

Regards,
John.
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  #559  
Old 10th January 2015
warrior1884 warrior1884 is offline
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Default waiting on parts....

Hi folks, thought I'give an update since you were helpful.

I've not been able to spend a lot of time on the car but so far I decided to change the original bov with a maptun metal one, went with maptun as it has a map on it from previous owner. When i took off the original bosch bov the inside was a mess with oil and the spring/diaphragm was soft and spongy compared to the new one which was hard to press with a finger. After seeing oil in the bov i checked the crank case vent system, especially the pipe that come from the oil catch to the intake system, I found the check valve on this was faulty(could blow and suck, tastes awful) in the process the pipe was brittle and snapped so ordered a new one.
So I'm hoping that fitting the new bov since i got a fault code for it and fitting the new pipe with check valve I'll have no more oil coming out the filler/dipstick cap. Will also get a sump drop and oil and filter change too.

Would the faulty check valve that goes to the intake system build up pressure in the oil vent pipework and pop the filler/dipstick cap off? I have looked at it and can only come up with this solution..?

Thanks
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  #560  
Old 25th December 2015
99Justin9-3 99Justin9-3 is offline
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Default Full Synthetic only never semi synthetic

Semi Synthetic oil is anywhere from only 2% synthetic to as high as 40% synthetic as any brief internet search will confirm.

For example, the following link: http://www.serioussaab.co.uk/articles_pages/sludge.html
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