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  #41  
Old 3rd March 2014
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Trollhättan Bil Trollhättan Bil is offline
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Originally Posted by 900t View Post
No that sucks

I've used Volvo wheels successfully using only regular lug bolts and no such spacer, it isn't so bad

I would be more concerned with Mercedes wheels since they have the spherical seat and not conical, but anyway...
Well, it doesn't "suck" as it is the proper method to mount off-brand wheels to avoid risking throwing your suspension geometry out of whack, wheel warpage, stripped lugs, damaging the wheel bearings, or potentially catastrophic failure resulting in possibly injuring yourself.

Granted, you can get by with "wobble bolts" or not running a full set of lugs if you only intend to tool about town but, if you're going to do any serious wheeling, straightening some curves or what have you, then you really should do any structural modifications properly.
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  #42  
Old 10th March 2014
TunnanXWD TunnanXWD is offline
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Smile gee does??

That mean wiggle bulls too. We bulls wobble but we don't fall down.

I guess that means plastic hub centering devices aren't real smart either huh?
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  #43  
Old 10th March 2014
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How can you realistically replace the hub, and what would it affect of geometry ?? It's not reasonable.


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Originally Posted by TunnanXWD View Post
That mean wiggle bulls too. We bulls wobble but we don't fall down.

I guess that means plastic hub centering devices aren't real smart either huh?
They might help a little with the wobbles when mounting the wheel, but surely that plastic thing does nothing once the wheel is on, the weight of the car and the reaction of torque of acceleration / braking is transmitted only on the face of the hub-wheel, not the lug bolts or the little lip. Which is why with loose lug nuts the studs break off and wheel goes on a mystical journey. The lugs are only made to be in pure tension, and they apply a clamping force of some stupid number of tons against the hub.
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  #44  
Old 11th March 2014
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Here are the volvo Wheels i was gonna obtain on a Saab

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  #45  
Old 11th March 2014
TunnanXWD TunnanXWD is offline
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Total sarcasm. You make your decisions but this azz does not get strapped into the seat of anything with not OEM or better and to spec.

All of the other goofy crap is fine if you profile down at Taco Bell and never go to highway speed.
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  #46  
Old 13th April 2014
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Originally Posted by 900t View Post
How can you realistically replace the hub,
Why, by simply pressing it(#3) off, of course:



Quote:
Originally Posted by 900t View Post
...and what would it affect of geometry ??
The suspension's geometry is affected by the improperly mounted wheel causing asymmetrical rotational vibration during vehicle operation, causing undue oppositional stress loads on the bearing assembly during cornering, not to mention that an improperly mounted wheel will, inevitably, work itself loose.

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It's not reasonable.
It's actually quite "reasonable", at least when you think about it anyway.
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  #47  
Old 13th April 2014
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I am with Tunnan and the rest. Lets leave this thread to die the same death the OP risks doing unsafe bs crap to his car.

You want to use different bolt circle wheels, then re machine the hub to the new PCD if there is sufficient material to do so. Otherwise, this is the dumbest deal I have seen on here ; totally retarded and unsafe crap.

Now ask me how I really feel! You will need luck OP
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  #48  
Old 28th April 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Rod View Post
I run Volvo wheels with wobble bolts. I haven't died in a fiery crash. I have never heard of wobble bolts causing a problem.
How many years you've been running with wobble bolts? And do you use spacers? Because I'm planning to run with one too, just trying to get more feedback about them before I go ahead.
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