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  #1  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
EggWhite EggWhite is offline
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Default Saab 9000 stuck at base boost, what else could it be

Hello, first time poster, long time observer. Like the title says I am currently stuck in base boost. For the last year or so I have felt that my car has been lacking power for having a stage 2 ecu and some other goodies. It was always constantly at about 12 or 13 psi, Just barely in the orange on the dash. Not long ago I felt it come alive out of the blue and it was at about 18 psi I believe, half way through the red. It wouldn't boost this good all the time though, half of the time in the orange and half the time in the red. Disconnected the battery a few times to reset everything and the same deal. I have tried to cover all my bases and read all other forums before posting.

I have tried different 2 other BCVs, 2.6 ohms between 1 and 2, 2.6 between 2 and 3 and I believe it passed the blow test. Tested the others and one failed the blow test and the one that I thought for certain was fine failed the ohm test. All 3 buzz with ignition on. So far I think this might be the most likely cause

Tried a different stock ECU

Replaced all the vacuum lines with silicone

Different DI cassette

Disconnected W on BCV and saw 24 psi a few time and hit fuel cut once

No break lights out to my knowledge (no warning on dash and all are lit up with lights on) but I'll have to get someone to look while I hit the breaks

Cruise I believe is working fine although I don't really know what I am looking for but I did pull the cruise fuse and still nothing.

I am about one pay check away from loosing my marbles and buying a T7 BCV and adapter from eeuro and a new Stage 2 (maybe even 3 hehe) ECU from BCB with the t7 add on tune. I will probably see if I can borrow my dads BCV and maube ECU from his 9000 but also kinda worried with my bad luck it will fry it.

Just looking for any input on what else I may have missed. Just seems odd that I was bouncing back and forth between 12 and 18 psi for a while, wasn't until recently it was seeing base boost from time to time. It has now been at base boost for about a week. Gut tells me it is the satanic BCV. Sorry this is a lot of information and an extensively covered topic already.
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  #2  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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check your wastegate spring, they can wear out and not hold the gate closed under boost.
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  #3  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by godwinaustin View Post
check your wastegate spring, they can wear out and not hold the gate closed under boost.


This was my original thought since swapping BCVs didnt do much. But when I disconnected the W line on BCV it gave me more than enough pressure. I have also diddled with the waste gate arm and I was able to move it with my fingers if I tried hard enough. It definitely felt as though it had a strong spring. This leads me to believe waste gate is fine.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago
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After cycling through my 3 BCVs I am feeling more and more that this is my problem and just my luck that I have 3 bad ones. I eventually swapped back to the original one and I was in base boost for about a week. This was the one that had descent ohms and passed the blow test. I swapped to the one that had decent ohms but was not solid on blow test (when blowing in C air comes out of W but also out of R if I plug W with my finger). The result was now getting 12 psi but not the 15-16 I am looking for. Both stock ecu and stage 2 ecu produce 12 psi.
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  #5  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
davide c davide c is offline
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Possibly (?) your wastegate hold closed spring (in the vac cannister) has lost strength.
Not usual.. but?
Add a hardware store helper spring to the wastegate arm to give it a helping keep it closed assistance. This was a common mod in pre Trionic days.
Keeping in mind that that Car's oem Turbo isn't actually capable of high boost pressures
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Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davide c View Post
Possibly (?) your wastegate hold closed spring (in the vac cannister) has lost strength.

Not usual.. but?

Add a hardware store helper spring to the wastegate arm to give it a helping keep it closed assistance. This was a common mod in pre Trionic days.

Keeping in mind that that Car's oem Turbo isn't actually capable of high boost pressures

But I have tested the car without the hose to the wastegate and got lots of boost, wouldnt that check the wastegate off the list as a possibility since the spring kept the wastegate closed while in boost or is it more complex than that?
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Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Put your hand under the throttle body on the inlet side and before the butterfly. You'll find that the tube fitting has slipped out so all your boost is dropping out of that hole before it gets past the butterfly. Get some adhesive, like rtv or epoxy or whatever and put a thin film around the tube before jamming it back in. For added security you can stake it with a pin punch from inside the tb
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Old 1 Week Ago
NC_Ribe NC_Ribe is offline
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Hi

The stage II BCV/BPC-valves has a reputation for being faulty. I bought an original (at a horrific price), and that solved my problem (and left the car with a bit less power). As it is so easy to change, I would advice you to lend a functional (or get a new), before you do the more costly repairs/changes.

Bw/NC
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Old 1 Week Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scantar View Post
Put your hand under the throttle body on the inlet side and before the butterfly. You'll find that the tube fitting has slipped out so all your boost is dropping out of that hole before it gets past the butterfly. Get some adhesive, like rtv or epoxy or whatever and put a thin film around the tube before jamming it back in. For added security you can stake it with a pin punch from inside the tb


I will plan on checking that out at some time today. Been meaning to check for that issue but always forget to check every time Im under the hood.
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Old 1 Week Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC_Ribe View Post
Hi



The stage II BCV/BPC-valves has a reputation for being faulty. I bought an original (at a horrific price), and that solved my problem (and left the car with a bit less power). As it is so easy to change, I would advice you to lend a functional (or get a new), before you do the more costly repairs/changes.



Bw/NC


What do you mean by stage II bcv? Is that just the regular t5 valve?
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  #11  
Old 1 Week Ago
NC_Ribe NC_Ribe is offline
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Hi again

When I had the problem, an original BPC-valve was priced at around DKK 2000. I tried to find cheaper alternatives, but the then existing SAAB spare parts wizard in Denmark told me, that it wasn't possible. I could get the unoriginal stage II-valve for around DKK 450, but that was without warranty, since they were likely to be or to become faulty. I tried to find them cheaper in Germany (and had a good offer), but after I insisted, that it should be the original one, I never heard more...

S I guess, that i'm talking about a non-SAAB valve (maybe Speedparts?), that look quite like the original, but is/were much cheaper.

Bw/NC
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  #12  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Original Trionic5 BPC valve is discounted.
I personally modify Trionic and use T7 BPC valve with modified connector.
T7 BPC valve P/N: 55557331

Tex maptunparts.dk sells conversion kit:
https://www.maptunparts.dk/turbo-sys...apc-valve.html
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Old 1 Week Ago
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Tube going into throttle body is solid.
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  #14  
Old 1 Week Ago
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I feel as though it has to be bcv. Instead of cashing out on the expensive t5 valve I will most likely upgrade to the t7. Thinking of getting a new tune from brew city boost for t7 valve and a td04 turbo that has been sitting in the garage waiting for a purpose. This seems like the easiest path at the moment. Will be a little more expensive, but reliability of t7 valve will be nice. Also been planning on swapping turbos for awhile since mine has a slight leak. Funny because there is absolutely no shaft play and spins effortlessly. I feel as though I have checked everything. Just need to find time and motivation and maybe some money.
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  #15  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Default Rebuild the t5 valve?

IF you feel ambitious? Cost is Zero and takes ~2 hours start to finish
The T5 boost solenoid CAN be diy disasembled and rebuilt .
I've done 2 of the things successfully..a few years ago.. still working too :-) Meter their coils first though.
Burnt coils cannot be replaced (except from a donor unit)
The Teeny Disc which is the operating valve between the two activation coils , either wears itself the brass seating rings OR even shatters (one of mine was in 3 pieces)
Use a razor saw to cut thru the glue joint.. it then pulls apart fairly easily.
Repair and replace what will be immediately obviously wrong.. then use epoxy to reassemble.
Good luck
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