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  #21  
Old 5th December 2007
silverdragon silverdragon is offline
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grand job!

i thought it was marker`d that way but i didnt want to risk running low oneday and not knowing whats what!

any oil tips like whats the best type perchance 40w 50w???im not sure of the actual W it is as ive not had my beast long enough...

gotta get a damn haynes but ive missed all the ones on ebay so im gonna bite the bullet oneday

cheers again

steve
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  #22  
Old 5th December 2007
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bkrell bkrell is offline
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Any nice synth 40 weight over there should be great.
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  #23  
Old 6th December 2007
ParaMedic_Saab ParaMedic_Saab is offline
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Since your over in the UK, I would go with Elf or Motul. Great oils. I am running ELF for the first time and my saab has never run smoother.
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  #24  
Old 7th December 2007
silverdragon silverdragon is offline
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elf sounds ok might shell out and give her some new blood

castrol gtx stuff (clings to your cars innards etc etc)is it any good ??

just got my exhust sorted(centre section)pipes where blowing but not damaged, so i just got some good exhust sealer and slapped it on!

lovly and piecefull again

it sounded like a modded airbox upgrade(cone) and it wasn`t over the top,people actually pay big bucks to get a sound i was getting!

its much better now!it runs happy again,but i may have to get a cone soon as it would give me a good noise but not as much as before` so a happy medium really

cheers for the oil advice, il sort some new juice for her shortly when ive checked the litre amount needed!
atleast i know its 40w syth but can it be any 40w like 40w 10w or 40w 20w?etc etc
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  #25  
Old 7th December 2007
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Stick to 0W, 5W, or 10W40. Many of the best Euro weights are 5W40s. Castrol Syntec is great but GTX? In these cars? Nope. Stay away.
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  #26  
Old 7th January 2008
temptee temptee is offline
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The correct Fram filter is the 3614. I'm currently using a 3600 that I had for another car. It screwed right on and is actually bigger, which we all know is better. I looked at another thread which discussed larger filters, ie more oil, but saw nothing on Fram.

I know that for some of my previous cars you could use larger filters and the product selection manuals at the autoparts store would direct you to them. I've had it on for several hundred miles now but wanted to make sure I'm not doing something completely unrecommended.
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  #27  
Old 7th January 2008
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Most people don't fool with Fram b/c it is perceived as inferior. Well, more than just perceived. The basic orange cans are poorly constructed for the price you pay. But if you go up the line to their Extended Guard series, these appear to be a quality-made line.
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  #28  
Old 7th January 2008
ParaMedic_Saab ParaMedic_Saab is offline
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Agree, people have taken apart the cheap Frams, not very highly though of.

Iam not sure if the extended guard ones are the same as the new Synthetic ones, but they are suppose to be pretty good.

I just received my Gigantic Ea026 amsoil synthetic filter (same as napa 1773). Now I have to wait 4months to put it in . I will say that the Ea026 is about twice as heavy as the 1773, more media filter ? more weight because of synthetic ?
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  #29  
Old 7th January 2008
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TROLLhattenschatten TROLLhattenschatten is offline
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I use the FRAM tough guard.

Made for H/D trucks
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  #30  
Old 4th February 2008
Jay515069 Jay515069 is offline
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Default Oil Pressure Relief Valve

I need some help finding where the oil pressure relief valve is and how to clean it preety sure it is stuck open. oil light is flickering. replaced sender unit, dropped oil pan and cleaned it new synth oil and filter. Thank you for help.
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  #31  
Old 25th February 2008
Kirkules Kirkules is offline
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I'm just a touch confuse. Many people on the forum recommend Auto RX to clean up the engine. Most people also recommend Synthetic oil. But Auto RX says that it will not work properly in the cleaning & rinsing stages if used with synthetics. Should we just drive calmly for two oil changes & make sure we get done before summer? Do we shorten the two oil change cycles with ARX?
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  #32  
Old 25th February 2008
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The "no synth" rule was put into place when many available consumer syths were what is known as group IV and group V synthtetics. These are the traditional and exotic synths. However, now group III synth has become the major player and is in most synth oils. Castrol Syntec in all grades except 0W30 and 5W40 is group III, so is Rotella T Synthetic 5W40, Valvoline Synth, Pennzoil, Quakerstate, etc. About the only major player that has group IV synth in mass circulation is Mobil1. Even THAT is in doubt in most grades except for 0W40.

So my personal recommendation would be for the Rotella T Synth 5W40. But any of the aforementioned will do. However, for the short duration that an Auto-RX clean/rinse operation takes, A good diesel oil such as Rotella, Mobil Delvac, or the like can be used with little fear of repercussion.
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  #33  
Old 26th February 2008
ParaMedic_Saab ParaMedic_Saab is offline
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Thanks BK Great info.
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  #34  
Old 26th February 2008
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No prob. Frank, from what I gather on BITOG, has a hard time tailoring the instructions to everyone given the fact that he gets so many questions. He had Terry Dyson, of Dyson Analysis, run some tests with Pennzoil Platinum and the combo (mixed with arx) did just fine. It's the group IV and V synths that are the big issue. As far as I understand, in group IV PAO synth, it's not the base oil, but rather the compounds used to dissolve the additive pack that are the issue. And with group V, I suppose it's probably either the same issue or even perhaps the polarity of the ester base oil itself, fighting for metal with arx. Now, Frank still endorses the use with the higher group synths for the small maintenance dose, just not the clean/rinse cycles. Particularly not the rinse cycle, when your trying to get the arx to work its way off the metal with the emulsified deposits.

Yes, the sad truth to all this is that most of the synths we have out there today are these group III synths, which are much easier and cheaper for oil companies to produce. They turn a much better profit from selling them at $4-5 a quart than they do with the group IV stuff. Granted, the group III synth HAS become very hard to distinguish from the pricier stuff in real world results, but for the purist, PAO and esters are the way to go.
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  #35  
Old 26th February 2008
ParaMedic_Saab ParaMedic_Saab is offline
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I just ordered some ARX, as soon as its here, I am dumping the GC I have in there and doing a cycle with Rotella.

Then Ill run my Motul with that Ea026 like I told you before.
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  #36  
Old 11th March 2008
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TROLLhattenschatten TROLLhattenschatten is offline
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How are the "Mobile one" filters?
are they anygood?
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  #37  
Old 11th March 2008
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bkrell bkrell is offline
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We've got a thread going on filters. I think it's in the 9-5 forum. mobil1's are good. No filter's going to make a night and day difference in anything, though. That is, unless it's a Fram collapsing. But, never seen it.
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  #38  
Old 11th March 2008
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TROLLhattenschatten TROLLhattenschatten is offline
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Yes i saw the thread but wanted to post here as i own a 900
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  #39  
Old 23rd March 2008
buks buks is offline
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Default 1996 SAAB 900 SET oil and filter

Just for info I use Castrol full synthetic 10W60 with excellent results here in the tropics
My previous car was an Audi 5-cylinder and i had two oem oil filters left after selling it to buy the Saab
The Audi filter fit perfectly and gives approx. 40 % more volume and are easier to buy in this country - also has non-return valve
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  #40  
Old 23rd March 2008
ParaMedic_Saab ParaMedic_Saab is offline
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Thick oil for the car. Iam sure it gets quite warm, but a 60wt IMO is to thick. Is a 40wt or a 50 wt readily available to you ?
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