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  #1  
Old 25th May 2019
CJPeterborough CJPeterborough is offline
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Default Troubleshooting P1482-04 Cooling Fan 2 Control circuit open

Car is a 9-3 1.9TID MY07.5
Problem has been around for sometime,last summer I swapped the control relay(706A) on the fan housing hoping to cure it as all the electrical tests in WIS fault trace seemed OK.
Decided to have another go this weekend

So I swapped the ECU last night still the same thinking it might be a control resistor.

All fan activations with Tech2 work apart for control 2

I measure 5v across Pins 3/4 on activation.(ie activating control 2)
Is this a wiring problem from pin 4 back through to 69 at the ECU?
Got me stumped!



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  #2  
Old 25th May 2019
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I know a couple of ppl who had the same issue on the Vectra C,broken wire/s about 22-26" from the plug,was the culprit..
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Old 25th May 2019
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Broken wire(s).
I have replaced wires to few 9-3 TiDs.
BTW: TiD ECU is worst possible place.
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Old 25th May 2019
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Spent a few hours at this today and stripped the loom back to around level with the oil filler cap...so a good 3ft.
Both wires on pins 1 and 4 are BN/YE from the radiator and continuity was fine as far as I could go from the plug about 3ft...after that its much bigger surgery.



From my knowledge of the WIS both these wires should end up at H24-5 under the battery?


Can anyone tell me which pin no and wire colours to check?
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Old 29th May 2019
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ECU connector B pin 94 to relay box pin 1 (BN/YE)
ECU connector B pin 69 to relay box pin 4 (BN/YE)
ECU connector B pin 90 to relay box pin 7 (GN/VT).
All wires are 0.5mm2.
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Old 29th May 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mimmi View Post
ECU connector B pin 94 to relay box pin 1 (BN/YE)
ECU connector B pin 69 to relay box pin 4 (BN/YE)
ECU connector B pin 90 to relay box pin 7 (GN/VT).
All wires are 0.5mm2.

Thanks for the above.


I stripped everything back under the battery tray as far as possible to around level with the oil filler cap and then it dissappears around the back of the engine block.


I couldnt find a problem probing with pins back about 3ft from the rad relay..its a real rats nest and fully tape wrapped.


It looks like it comes back to the H24-5 connector under the tray and there on to the ECU?


There are quite a few BN/YE wires unfortunately and I cant find in the WIS details for the H24-5 pins.


What I would like to know is where pins 4/7 relay box go to on the H24-5 connector so I can check up and down from there.


I dont want to start ripping at the ECU until I know for sure the problem is on that side....if that makes sense.
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Old 29th May 2019
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Why not you just by-pass wires with new ones?
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Old 29th May 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mimmi View Post
Why not you just by-pass wires with new ones?

That would be the final solution but if I can identify the break somewhere on the upside I avoid hacking into the ECU plug....as you know its not the easiest place to work on!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJPeterborough View Post
avoid hacking into the ECU plug....as you know its not the easiest place to work on!
It's in a wonderful place to work on...
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Old 30th May 2019
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Raise car (if you use car jack, use jack stand).
Remove wheel and mud shield (8 + 10mm nuts and tx25)
Remove 3* 10mm nuts and pull.
Push lock pin and raise securing lever (you might need to lubricate/ease to move).
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Old 30th May 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mimmi View Post
Raise car (if you use car jack, use jack stand).
Remove wheel and mud shield (8 + 10mm nuts and tx25)
Remove 3* 10mm nuts and pull.
Push lock pin and raise securing lever (you might need to lubricate/ease to move).

Yes thanks again but I already swapped the ECU out with one I cloned to eliminate the possibility of an internal fault with the ECU.


I really dont want to hack at the ECU connector as this could cause more trouble than its worth further down the road.


Hoping I can find the problem in the engine bay.... hence the request for the H24-5 connector info.
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Old 30th May 2019
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I hope that you will find broken wires with multimeter.
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