2004 Saab 95 Arc 2.3 L Turbo - Manual Transmission removal procedure.
Humbly sharing this steps I used to remove the manual transmission from my 2004 Arc 2.3L Turbo, hope are useful to someone else.
Saab 2004 9-5 Arc 2.3 L Turbo
Transmission removal protocol from underneath car’s engine bay w/ subframe removal.
1. Leave ignition key at the “Off” position to unlock shifter lever and leave it in neutral for now, freeing it up for a later step.
2. Open hood.
NOTE: To prevent radio from erasing its codes when the battery gets disconnected and having to reset it via Tech2 scanner at the shop ($80+ charge) connect some sort of power source pack to any of the DC (lighter) outlets inside the car.
3. Remove battery terminals and remove battery.
4. Secure battery cables away from work area with rope or bungees.
5. Remove battery tray and all hardware and all nearby associated bracketing, mounts, etc,.
6. Dismount fuse box and pull it out of the way & aside w/ bungee, hooks or cord.
7. Disconnect the vacuum line from throttle body to air tube and any other associated connection from the same assembly.
8. Remove the air intake tube that comes from intercooler to the throttle body.
9. Disconnect and remove multicoil ignition cassette.
10. Rise (or lift) the car up and support it safely.
11. Remove both front wheels.
12. Disconnect both ABS sensors and HID light vibration sensor connectors.
13. Remove both axel nuts w/ 1/2“ impact wrench & 32mm socket (or by removing center cap from wheels, installing both wheels again and lowering the car so tires secure axle, then use the socket w/an extension and a breaker bar).
14. Dismount both calipers but leave fluid lines connected. (w/ E-Torx socket size E-40)
15. Use a strong wire hook to suspend calipers out of the way, use one of the strut spring’s coils to hold calipers up.
16. Remove both front rotors.
17. Dismount tie rod ends from both sides, (use press tool/ tie rod end extractor and tap the holding point from steering knuckle with hammer repeatedly to prevent it from dislodging violently when too much compression is applied to the tool).
18. Use bungee or rope to also suspend tie rod ends up and out of the way, using the strut’s spring coil as a holding point is a good option.
19. Remove both sway bar end linkages. (Those connect the strut w/ sway bar.)
20. Unthread the 3 nuts/bolts that connect the ball joint from the lower control arm and the steering knuckle, do the same on both sides.
21. Pull down and secure lower control arm (ratcheting cargo webbing, rope, etc) to keep it out of the way while removing axles.
22. Tap axle stem (threaded end) from passenger side axle w/ hammer to dismount it from the steering knuckle’s bearing splines. To prevent thread deformation, protect axle stem with the nut, using a wide blunt punch (20-25mm or so in diameter), or any other method while hammering.
23. With axle’s outer stem out of the way now it is easy to dismount steering knuckle /spindle from the strut’s two large holding bolts. (It may not be 100% necessary to remove the passenger’s side steering knuckle but I dismount it to clean and inspect it).
24. To remove the passenger side axel from the intermediate shaft use a solid bar or blunt punch and hammer and hit the CV joint’s inner metal mass outwards, it is the one at the side that connects to the intermediate shaft. The axel stem from the inner end will pull away from the intermediate shaft as it gets hit with the blunt bar and hammer.
25. Remove both rear engine mounts and front damper. The rear mount is somewhat tricky, it is held by a nut that holds it against the rear bracket on top and 3 M6 bolts that hold it against the subframe on the bottom. After the front damper is removed, to remove this rear mount, it may be necessary to loosen up the 4 bolts that hold the driver’s side transmission mount and rise the engine/transmission slightly to be able to give it “some room” and remove it.
26. Dismount all hardware/ brackets related to both front and rear engine mounts.
27. The rear engine mount bracketing also receives the shifter linkage bracket (2 smaller bolts) that has to be removed also.
28. Disconnect and remove both O2 sensors.
29. Remove all brackets to exhaust pipe/ cat including the central metal plate/brace located at the rear end of the subframe then remove complete exhaust pipe from turbo to mid pipe. This back end of the exhaust pipe is also supported also w/ two hard rubber connectors to the subframe; remove those as well.
30. Remove small nuts that connect air filter housing to subframe.
31. Secure radiator, AC condenser, intercooler and oil cooler and the corresponding lines & connectors with some rope or nylon webbing to the upper front part of the car’s engine bay
NOTE: These whole cooling assemblies will have to be properly secured before attempting to drop the subframe to preventing them to sag down excessively and damaging fluid lines, hoses, connections, etc, as the subframe comes down.
32. Remove the lower radiator/intercooler/condenser supporting brackets that are also attached to the front/ lower part of the subframe.
33. Remove the entire subframe.
NOTE: 6 major bolts are holding the subframe against the car’s lower body frame and engine bay, the two rear ones also share connecting points with the central plate/brace that protects exhaust pipe (it was removed earlier) and two additional metal plates on each side that will have to be removed as well. Also, the two long bolts that support the rack and pinion must be removed as well. The rack & pinion assembly will be suspended by the steering column at this point. Ensure the entire subframe structure is supported properly on at least two points with jacks before removing all the bolts (front-back or left-right) to prevent it from dropping suddenly on the floor (or your head…).
34. Lower subframe carefully and put it aside and out of the way.
35. Remove drain plug w/ 8mm hex socket and drain all the transmission fluid. (This is now very easy as the subframe out of the way).
36. Untighten also the fluid refilling plug w/ the same 8mm hex socket to drain the fluid faster and to later facilitate refilling the transmission fluid after it is mounted back on the engine.
37. Once all the transmission fluid is drained reinstall the drain plug and torque it to 12 – 14 ft/lb (this plug is smaller than the engine oil drain that goes to 20 -24 ft/lb)
38. Remove now the driver’s side axel shaft, (a shaft puller hammer is ideal but it will also loosen up by carefully prying the inner CV joint metal mass outwards with small pry bars, ensure no structures or the boot itself get damaged if using this method.
39. Using some type of top engine support bar w/ chain hold the engine’s inner end (flywheel end). Use the car’s upper sides framing to rest the support bar before removing the transmission. A commercially available, multipoint/ adjustable engine support bar would be ideal to lower or rise the engine as needed. (or a homemade structure w/ 2x4 wooden beam and a chain…)
40. Disconnect ground cable to transmission.
41. Disconnect the reverse sensor connector.
42. Inside the car, put the shifter lever in 4th gear. (That puts the transmission shifter rod all the way in).
43. Remove securing bolt and disconnect selector linkage from selector bar/rod that goes to transmission. Some wiggle is required...
44. Disconnect all the electrical ring terminals (13mm/ 8mm nut over stud) from both starter motor and alternator. There is a small cable ring terminal that is behind and out of the view (8mm nut), ensure it gets disconnected before removing starter motor.
45. Remove starter motor. One of the upper transmission bolts will have to be removed at this point as also holds the upper part of starter motor, the other is a nut over a stud.
46. Remove inspection plate from bottom part of transmission. (2 smaller M6 bolts).
47. Un-tension the serpentine belt & dismount it from alternator’s pulley.
48. Remove serpentine belt tensioner.
49. Remove lone spinner wheel below the belt tensioner. (This gives better access to “combined bracket” mounting points.)
50. Remove alternator (two 8mm long hex key bolts)
51. Remove the combined bracket; this bracket both houses 1. The lower alternator’s 8mm long bolt and 2. The intermediate shaft stabilization bearing holder from the passenger side axle.
NOTE: Aside of bolts, this dual bracket has “guide pins” inserted in the engine’s block; it is necessary to pry the bracket off & away from the pins with a small pry bar before it can be released. This bracket stays attached to the stabilization bearing and removal of the intermediate shaft by itself will NOT be possible; that is why this bracket has to be released from the engine’s block as well.
52. Once bracket is free remove the intermediate shaft from transmission.
53. Support transmission w/ jack.
54. Lift transmission up enough to remove transmission mount from driver’s side engine compartment.
55. Remove transmission mounting bracket system. (not 100% necessary but this allows for better mobility)
56. Remove all transmission bolts, (minus the one that needed to be removed earlier as it also holds the starter motor’s upper end).
57. Alternatively use the two very long bolts threading them at the two lower the most orifices (the ones that hold the rack & pinion assembly/ w subframe) as “guides” to prevent the transmission from falling off unexpectedly.
58. Slightly pull transmission off the engine by sliding the jack away from the engine and assisting with small pry bars. Hold it evenly. Two jacks could be used to have better support of the transmission; obviously the use of a specialized transmission jack would be ideal to manipulate and prevent the transmission from falling off.
59. Once the transmission shows a “gap” from engine’s block and is safely secured w/ jack (s) continue pulling it outwards.
60. Remove the two long bolts that were used as guides. Change height w/ jack(s) as needed.
61. Ensure the transmission’s shaft is away from both the clutch plate’s splines and pressure plate’s spring leaves.
62. Lower the transmission carefully.
63. Place transmission on a receiving surface, preferably a small roller frame, like the ones used to move furniture, for easy manipulation.
Nice write up! Thanks for sharing.
2017 Chevy Camaro SS A8 Whipple supercharger, 95mm TB, 5” CAI, 608 RWHP/610 RWTQ
2019 Toyota Sequoia Limited A6 5.7L V8, 381 HP, 4WD, 20” wheels. Daily driver.
2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4 A9 AWD, Carbon fiber DS, adaptive suspension, 19’s.
Past Saabs: ‘11 9-5 Aero XWD 370 HP, (2) ‘11 9-5 T4P Java, ‘06 9-7X 5.3i, ‘72 Sonett
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