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  #1  
Old 24th January 2017
packardv8 packardv8 is offline
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Default Liftgate going nuts

For the past few days, the liftgate has been randomly raising itself. Definitely no chance of the keyfob being accidentally triggered.

Over on the Cadillac SRX website, there seems to be a problem with the sunroof drains leaking into the spare tire well. The liftgate mechanics and electrics live there and are drowned. Our well is bone dry, no evidence of any water ever.

Any thoughts?

jack ivnes
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  #2  
Old 24th January 2017
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Diggs Diggs is offline
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Start by giving it the old pull the negative on the battery reset trick. Report back.
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  #3  
Old 30th January 2017
packardv8 packardv8 is offline
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The liftgate is still opening randomly. I tried the reset protocol of removing the fuses and cycling the remote. No help.

The Cadillac dealer says, "We don't know what could be causing that. Expect to be charged for a full diagnostic."

jack vines
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  #4  
Old 30th January 2017
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I mean full on system reboot. Car battery unplug.
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  #5  
Old 1st February 2017
packardv8 packardv8 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diggs View Post
I mean full on system reboot. Car battery unplug.
Thanks. Yes, it's still the original battery. It's not just a matter of voltage, but rather how much current, and how reliably. Old batteries cause all kinds of interesting problems in modern cars...computers don't like inconsistent electrical supply. Anyway, I just yesterday rebooted the system by disconnecting the negative cable. I was pleased to find after six years and zero maintenance, the battery system was a clean as new and zero evidence of any corrosion anywhere. With complexity comes expensive problems, but sometimes also comes less maintenance. No way would the older cars batteries lasted this long, nor would have been as clean.

Question - is there a combination of control actuation which will allow a battery voltage reading to be displayed when the engine is not running?

2. Here are some links and replies from the other, lesser fora.
Interesting info from other GM vehicles with same random liftgate opening:

"I had this problem and it was the button on the liftgate itself (outside button). The rubber fails and causes moisture to get inside and causes the contacts to go bad. Replace the button and you should be OK."

and "I had the seal go bad on my 2008, again on my 2010, and again on my 2012..... button replaced each time under warranty and problem solved.

The replacement one on my 2012 is also bad again now, just the seal, no electrical problems yet.... but it's going to cause a problem in the near future. Very poor design."

and "Today I replaced the liftgate release switch (touchpad) and the problem is solved! I too opened up the defective switch and there was corrosion present. The replacement part was only $20. It is so nice to once again be able to open the liftgate from the outside! Thanks again, Ron."

etc at : http://www.acadiaforum.net/index.php...6905;topicseen

So, yes, last winter, the outside switch began to randomly fail to actuate. I bought a replacement, but when the weather warmed, it began to function reliably. This winter, it's opening when touched, but maybe it's also making random contact. Since I have it in hand, no reason not to install it ( other than the single-digit temperatures in the garage :>)

Question - what's the easiest method to open the liftgate should there be a system failure?

Since a battery is ant **** expense, maybe I should just replace it because it could be the problem. There's a lot going on in the connections on top of the battery; any special procedures required? (I ask because BMWs have the potential to do catastrophic damage if the battery is incorrectly replaced.)

jack vines
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Old 2nd February 2017
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1. No, not that I am aware of. Nothing a multimeter couldn't handle.

2. Since it is similar to the SRX I would guess this is how to do it:

http://www.justanswer.com/car/7vczd-...ually-srx.html

3. Nothing special like BMW. Will have to reset the windows and TPMS possibly.
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  #7  
Old 7th February 2017
packardv8 packardv8 is offline
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FWIW, my excuse and I'm sticking to it; it's the wife's rig and I don't drive it often.

On the door is a push-button switch which opens and closes the liftgate. The outer ring of this switch is a three-position switch; "Full", "3/4" and "OFF". With this switch in the "OFF" position, it hasn't thus far opened randomly.

I'm still wrestling with removing the interior panel to access the outside switch wiring plug; thus far, it's winning. There's no way to see all the fasteners, no way to know whether they will pop back in and hold the panel tightly upon re-assembly.

jack vines
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  #8  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
mikeva mikeva is offline
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Default Control Module or Pump Motor?

I've run into a similar issue. My lift gate stopped working completely last week. After learning about the leaky sunroof drain tubs, I opened up the spare tire storage to find about two inches of standing water...

Removed the control module, dried it out and cleaned it up reasonably well -- it really didn't look that bad. So I decided to crack open the pump/motor housing and discovered that inside the plastic case, surrounding the pump/motor assembly is a rubber sponge that won't give up a single drop of water voluntarily. Took that apart to dry out and noticed the actual pump motor looks fairly corroded -- although the contacts are surprisingly clean.

Put it all back together and had a tiny bit of success. Every time I press one of the gate buttons, I hear is a clicking sound from the control module, which makes me think a relay is triggering like I imagine it's supposed to. I've actually seen the gate go up twice and down once now out of about 15 attempts, so the motor too can work. Pretty sure one of these two components is the problem child, but not clear to me which it is. Any recommendations? Thanks!

Last edited by mikeva; 4 Weeks Ago at 10:50 AM. Reason: reworded
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  #9  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
mikeva mikeva is offline
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Turns out it's easy to test the motor. I directly connected the leads to a 12V battery. One way drives it up, reversed polarity and it goes down. So the motor checks out.

Looking at a new control module now. The OEM part has to be calibrated by a dealer before it can be used. Has anyone tried an aftermarket part? maXpeedingrods claims that theirs doesn't need programming?

Also, any easy way to clean out the drain tubes? I did the water bottle test and found 3/4 are draining, but the rear right is just gurgling. I imagine that was the root cause here. Thanks,
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  #10  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
JBarstad JBarstad is offline
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Long pipe cleaner? How long is the tube? 4-5 feet?
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  #11  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
mikeva mikeva is offline
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Yeah, I'd estimate about 4ft. It needs something flexible enough to not damage the tube, but sturdy enough to actually follow the tube push through whatever's in there. I've seen some suggest trimmer line. Maybe good for determining if there is blockage, but it's not going to push anything through.

In re. re-programming, any chance any one has tried out any Chinese knock-off tools? I'm thinking it might be worth investing in a VXDiag VCX Nano and an ACDelco subscription for my VIN -- if they actually work for us
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  #12  
Old 1 Week Ago
mikeva mikeva is offline
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Default K.i.s.s.

Great news! I found Technical Bulletin 09-08-66-010B pretty well describes the issue. I tried pulling the two liftgate fuses for a couple minutes but that alone didn't fix it. A buddy of mine loaned me a OBDLink MX+ which can do some OEM stuff. It showed a code for lost communication w/ liftgate module. Cleared the code and it's working again!

Last edited by mikeva; 1 Week Ago at 11:05 AM.
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