2.0T Actual cold air intake [Archive] - SaabCentral Forums

: 2.0T Actual cold air intake


SaabSS
12th November 2011, 05:31 PM
I was bored last night so I decided to make my own Cold air intake for my 03 vector 2.0T. Yes, it is actually a cold air intake. The filter location is inside the fender well right behind the fog light. Here are some pics.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c1CAYgYl6u4/Tr7uMNkIMxI/AAAAAAAAFZE/9dkFMYBz-A4/s720/100_2030.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dWRnqVIoDdI/Tr7uM3jVrfI/AAAAAAAAFZI/oHltgtQBe_I/s720/100_2029.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N7sUv8oXlIY/Tr7uPNSiUTI/AAAAAAAAFZY/QPCenVuJVsM/s512/100_2025.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gxa4ygO-MPA/Tr7vjKF3qwI/AAAAAAAAFZ4/R4b6x0UyyVY/s800/Saab%252520cold%252520air.jpg

stpoolshark
12th November 2011, 06:31 PM
After seeing this, I will probably relocate mine.

SaabSS
12th November 2011, 06:58 PM
After seeing this, I will probably relocate mine.

If you want step by step instructions let me know. It's easy to do, and I can feel a gain in power for sure.

Saabstory34
12th November 2011, 07:29 PM
If you want step by step instructions let me know. It's easy to do, and I can feel a gain in power for sure.

I have yet to see a step by step for this. It would be beneficial to all the ones wanting a CAI. I say throw one up!

SaabSS
12th November 2011, 09:38 PM
Tools needed:
10mm socket
8mm socket

First remove the factory airbox assembly. I did this a while back so I dont remember what is holding the box to the car, prob 2 or 3 bolts.


jack up right front corner of car and support with jack stand
remove right front wheel


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dvAo0bhmbT8/Tr7uR4j3AcI/AAAAAAAAFaA/tottlZp7ZAE/s720/100_2019.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OnxuWSjgwt8/Tr7uQm3upOI/AAAAAAAAFaE/94u9oXy0_q4/s720/100_2022.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BeNAr_M_xsg/Tr7uQ2yEBEI/AAAAAAAAFaM/AscnInzdjCA/s720/100_2021.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n4iKYkvp4GQ/Tr7uRQAzOpI/AAAAAAAAFaI/emKUukGyJOs/s720/100_2020.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-umwbz4sNYMY/Tr8nga7YvuI/AAAAAAAAFaQ/mOir7VrUDSM/s720/100_2023.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dWRnqVIoDdI/Tr7uM3jVrfI/AAAAAAAAFZI/oHltgtQBe_I/s720/100_2029.JPG -You will need to buy intake piping (I used 3" piping) which can be purchased at autozone or most any other auto store, as well as couplers that fit the size piping you use. Assemble as shown in above pic, or a similar arrangement of your choice-

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N7sUv8oXlIY/Tr7uPNSiUTI/AAAAAAAAFZY/QPCenVuJVsM/s512/100_2025.JPG
- buy a universal filter, the K&N I bought from advanced auto is a slimmer design than the spectre filters that were also sold there. Which is needed to fit comfortably inside fender-

-Attach filter to another piece of intake piping approx. 6" in length (I used 3" exhaust piping because its what I had laying around)-

-Stick pipe with filter attached up through the factory hole in fender and attach to intake piping that you assembled a few steps back using a coupler-

Put the inner fender well back on car, bolt wheel back on, lower car and enjoy. Hopefully these directions are straight forward enough to follow successfully. Feel free to ask any questions if needed.

Matt1488
12th November 2011, 10:37 PM
I know we haven't had much rain recently but how do u think it's gonna fare with the rains. Gerry and I thought about doing it but the gains aren't worth it IMO. And we have intercoolers. But the hydro locking would be my biggest concern.

But all in all the work you did clean and good.

SaabSS
12th November 2011, 11:05 PM
I know we haven't had much rain recently but how do u think it's gonna fare with the rains. Gerry and I thought about doing it but the gains aren't worth it IMO. And we have intercoolers. But the hydro locking would be my biggest concern.

But all in all the work you did clean and good. Thank you!

With the fender well back on there isnt much of a concern with Water spraying off tires or splashing up onto filter. The only issue would be a deep puddle but my car isnt lowered and when there is standing water on the roads I keep it easy and constantly lookout for puddles. Not to say hydro locking cant happen which I hope it never does but Im not to worried about myself.

pacotaco
13th November 2011, 12:25 AM
its cool and all but its not really gonna give you any gains and id be more concerned about the whole hydro locking because your turbo sucks in masses of air and it will pull moisture really easily i wouldent be surprised if it were to pool in your piping.

SaabSS
13th November 2011, 02:38 AM
its cool and all but its not really gonna give you any gains and id be more concerned about the whole hydro locking because your turbo sucks in masses of air and it will pull moisture really easily i wouldent be surprised if it were to pool in your piping.

Thanks for the input. I positively feel a gain in power though. To address the hydro locking I am going to look into getting An AEM air bypass valve.

http://cdn.autoanything.com/images/products/reli/air_intake_systems/aem_air_bypass_installed_rel.gif "AEMís patented Air Bypass Valve virtually eliminates the chance of hydro-lock in the event the filter of your AEM Cold Air induction system becomes submerged in water. On most systems, the valve installs along the upper portion of the inlet pipe and shuts down induction at the filter when it becomes submerged, rerouting air through its external diaphragm to keep water out and air flowing in." http://www.aemintakes.com/air_bypass_valve.htm

pacotaco
13th November 2011, 11:59 AM
Thanks for the input. I positively feel a gain in power though. To address the hydro locking I am going to look into getting An AEM air bypass valve.

http://cdn.autoanything.com/images/products/reli/air_intake_systems/aem_air_bypass_installed_rel.gif "AEMís patented Air Bypass Valve virtually eliminates the chance of hydro-lock in the event the filter of your AEM Cold Air induction system becomes submerged in water. On most systems, the valve installs along the upper portion of the inlet pipe and shuts down induction at the filter when it becomes submerged, rerouting air through its external diaphragm to keep water out and air flowing in." http://www.aemintakes.com/air_bypass_valve.htm

Where are you gonna put it because if you put it back in your engine bay you just have a short ram intake again. Also its really not gonna do that much you have a turbo aucking and compressing alot of air.

awjones
13th November 2011, 01:27 PM
you could try one of those filter shields that AEM and Injen make.

SaabSS
13th November 2011, 02:04 PM
Where are you gonna put it because if you put it back in your engine bay you just have a short ram intake again. Also its really not gonna do that much you have a turbo aucking and compressing alot of air.

Id put it in the engine baya few inches above the hole that goes into the fender. It's a bypass valve so the valve is in open position but once the main filter is restricted air starts flowing throught the bypass filter which closes the valve. Once closed it only brings in air through the bypass filter. AEM is a reputable company and I'm sure they spent the time to engineer it to work the way they say it does.

Jn2
13th November 2011, 07:55 PM
No purpose...when I had my logger connected, IAT1 was always 1-2*f above ambient, a negligable difference...And the 5 piece intake looks ugly...maybe if it was all 1 piece aluminum it'd look better. But compared to a BSR or DIY there won be difference worth the hassle

SaabSS
13th November 2011, 10:50 PM
I should have done this mod months ago, it was easier than I thought to do. I can feel an increase in performance through out the entire rpm range compared to my old short ram setup, a minor increase but nonetheless an increase. My engine compartment looks much cleaner now without the dirty open element filter sitting there.

I say go for it for any of you open to try new things, at worst you can change back to your old setup in minutes if you don't like it. Adding the AEM bypass valve isn't a bad idea if your area gets rain often.

If you've never had a cold air setup like this on your saab you don't know if your performance will decrease, increase or stay the same. So you shouldn't be talking down on it just cuz you think you do know.

Thanks for all the feedback

pacotaco
13th November 2011, 10:56 PM
cold air or short ram its not going to make a difference the air still has to go though the hot charger and though the heat soaked pipes under the motor, and then through the intercooler where most of the actual charge cooling is done then into the motor, so i dont think extending it 6 inches down into the fender will really do much when the air is traveling about 7 feet of heat soaked pipe. most of what your experiencing is probably in your head. stick it on a dyno if you want to prove that it did something, and if anything your getting maybe a 1 to 2 hp yield maybe not even.

and i have had this setup on my saab, that and a velocity stack intake only thing that changed was how loud the stock bov was.

SaabSS
14th November 2011, 12:36 AM
cold air or short ram its not going to make a difference the air still has to go though the hot charger and though the heat soaked pipes under the motor, and then through the intercooler where most of the actual charge cooling is done then into the motor, so i dont think extending it 6 inches down into the fender will really do much when the air is traveling about 7 feet of heat soaked pipe. most of what your experiencing is probably in your head. stick it on a dyno if you want to prove that it did something, and if anything your getting maybe a 1 to 2 hp yield maybe not even.

and i have had this setup on my saab, that and a velocity stack intake only thing that changed was how loud the stock bov was.

Relax taco, I wasnt directing that towards anyone specifically. I'm not here to prove myself to anyone or try an come off like I'm a pro tuner and know everything. Just though I'd share my weekend project with fellow saab owners, I didn't ask for anyones opinion. It's a shame that every time a new thread is posted about a mod or an idea, there is always a member that never says anything positive or appreciative just contradicts it.

pacotaco
14th November 2011, 12:45 AM
Relax taco, I wasnt directing that towards anyone specifically. I'm not here to prove myself to anyone or try an come off like I'm a pro tuner and know everything. Just though I'd share my weekend project with fellow saab owners, I didn't ask for anyones opinion. It's a shame that every time a new thread is posted about a mod or an idea, there is always a member that never says anything positive or appreciative just contradicts it.

never said you were i was just saying you cant claim power gains by just feel, and as much as you want to think its faster it might not be. never was contradicting your idea just pointing out a flaw in the design, hydro locking is very easy to do and its something that should be pointed out. constructive criticism... if you put in the bypass then the intake goes back to being a short ram because all the air will suck in though the engine bay.

SaabSS
14th November 2011, 01:11 AM
never said you were i was just saying you cant claim power gains by just feel, and as much as you want to think its faster it might not be. never was contradicting your idea just pointing out a flaw in the design, hydro locking is very easy to do and its something that should be pointed out. constructive criticism... if you put in the bypass then the intake goes back to being a short ram because all the air will suck in though the engine bay.

Who says I can't claim power gains by feel? I drive my car enough to know that it feels stronger. I don't need to put it on a dyno to reassure myself I'm adding power. And the bypass valve doesnt suck through the bypass filter until the main filter is restricted enough to open the bypass valve... Thats the reason they were able to patent the damn thing, read the webpage. So you can't say that the bypass valve will turn it back into a short ram - you don't know that, your just contradicting the idea.

The hydro locking was pointed out by Matt1488 before you, that was constructive criticism. Because of that I looked into the bypass valve.

pacotaco
14th November 2011, 01:21 AM
Who says I can't claim power gains by feel? I drive my car enough to know that it feels stronger. I don't need to put it on a dyno to reassure myself I'm adding power. And the bypass valve doesnt suck through the bypass filter until the main filter is restricted enough to open the bypass valve... Thats the reason they were able to patent the damn thing, read the webpage. So you can't say that the bypass valve will turn it back into a short ram - you don't know that, your just contradicting the idea.

The hydro locking was pointed out by Matt1488 before you, that was constructive criticism. Because of that I looked into the bypass valve.

you can claim it feels faster alll you want... ever heard of the placebo effect its when you want to think something is working so in your head you make it work. and no the bypass filter sucks all the time my gf has one on her 350z i opened it and looked at it, all it is is a peice of foam with a rubber gasket around it so when the intake sucks in the rubber sucks in to let air in and when the intake closes the rubber returns creating a seal from water, so when you are boosting its just going to suck air in from inside your engine bay. its not like it magicly opens up when theres water going into your intake... its open all the time sucking air in from there.

PRD2BDF
14th November 2011, 09:10 AM
I personally would not be concerned with water entry/hydrolocking.

You have the plastic dam covering the front part then the plastic fenderwell protecting the rest. I would practice common sense and not drive through large puddles.

Looks really nice!

TylerL
14th November 2011, 11:16 AM
Had this same set up on my gtp ran winters with it, never had any problems hydrolocking anything. And it was supercharged so it was sucking in tons of air as well

SaabSS
14th November 2011, 04:28 PM
I personally would not be concerned with water entry/hydrolocking.

You have the plastic dam covering the front part then the plastic fenderwell protecting the rest. I would practice common sense and not drive through large puddles.

Looks really nice!

Had this same set up on my gtp ran winters with it, never had any problems hydrolocking anything. And it was supercharged so it was sucking in tons of air as well

I agree, I'm content with how it turned out and don't think I'll have any issues. I appreciate the feedback!

Matt1488
14th November 2011, 05:13 PM
Well the only reason why I brought up hydrolocking and bringing it up again is BC I noticed that even with my intake, Similar to the bsr one, the cone filter is wet on some rain storms. And I know for a fact that our splash guard doesn't stop all the water. That's the only thing that worries me. I've had intakes that ran all the down to the bumpers on previous cars and had the bpv on them. They all sucked in some amount of water. But they never sucked in air like a turboed car. Paco does have a valid point about the bpv and our turbos.

But i am curious to see how you intake will fare over the next coming months.

SaabSS
14th November 2011, 06:25 PM
Well the only reason why I brought up hydrolocking and bringing it up again is BC I noticed that even with my intake, Similar to the bsr one, the cone filter is wet on some rain storms. And I know for a fact that our splash guard doesn't stop all the water. That's the only thing that worries me. I've had intakes that ran all the down to the bumpers on previous cars and had the bpv on them. They all sucked in some amount of water. But they never sucked in air like a turboed car. Paco does have a valid point about the bpv and our turbos.

But i am curious to see how you intake will fare over the next coming months.

I understand, You brought up a valid point with hydro-locking its def something that i don't want to happen. Your reply about it got me looking into ways to prevent it from happening. I thank you for your input man.

John Z Williams
14th November 2011, 10:37 PM
I will throw up my 2 cents, first, the only way you would hydro-lock is if you submerge the filter under water, rain and snow would never come close to doing it, we run w/m injection on many cars, much more than what could ever get injected from rain droplets, they will just cool the charge and help it make more power.

Now if you live in Florida and the water is 2' deep, I would be concerned and defintelely be going around puddles.

I ran a set up like this on my ng900 with gt30 turbo and it would make a nice difference in iat and a noticeable difference in throttle response and a little bit of power, you could feel the difference for sure.

Downside: I had my conical filter get torn by a small pepple, rock sand debris or something, it tore the filter material, got into my turbo and took out the compressor blade, looked like it had been sand blasted. I ended up taking it back out from the bottom and put it back up top. Another point is you should use stainless metal, that rust will flake off inside the pipe and also take out the compressor blade,

It does work well, but I would make a good cover to enclose the filter and run one of those mesh water resistant covers that K&N sells.

Here is what mine looked like after a winter of running the low intake on Colorado roads, they use sand instead of salt:cry:

JZW

derekwilkinson
14th November 2011, 11:13 PM
I will throw up my 2 cents, first, the only way you would hydro-lock is if you submerge the filter under water, rain and snow would never come close to doing it, we run w/m injection on many cars, much more than what could ever get injected from rain droplets, they will just cool the charge and help it make more power.

Now if you live in Florida and the water is 2' deep, I would be concerned and defintelely be going around puddles.

I ran a set up like this on my ng900 with gt30 turbo and it would make a nice difference in iat and a noticeable difference in throttle response and a little bit of power, you could feel the difference for sure.

Downside: I had my conical filter get torn by a small pepple, rock sand debris or something, it tore the filter material, got into my turbo and took out the compressor blade, looked like it had been sand blasted. I ended up taking it back out from the bottom and put it back up top. Another point is you should use stainless metal, that rust will flake off inside the pipe and also take out the compressor blade,

It does work well, but I would make a good cover to enclose the filter and run one of those mesh water resistant covers that K&N sells.

Here is what mine looked like after a winter of running the low intake on Colorado roads, they use sand instead of salt:cry:

JZW

ouch! do you use a custom intake now? or just a filter?

SaabSS
14th November 2011, 11:21 PM
I will throw up my 2 cents, first, the only way you would hydro-lock is if you submerge the filter under water, rain and snow would never come close to doing it, we run w/m injection on many cars, much more than what could ever get injected from rain droplets, they will just cool the charge and help it make more power.

Now if you live in Florida and the water is 2' deep, I would be concerned and defintelely be going around puddles.

I ran a set up like this on my ng900 with gt30 turbo and it would make a nice difference in iat and a noticeable difference in throttle response and a little bit of power, you could feel the difference for sure.

Downside: I had my conical filter get torn by a small pepple, rock sand debris or something, it tore the filter material, got into my turbo and took out the compressor blade, looked like it had been sand blasted. I ended up taking it back out from the bottom and put it back up top. Another point is you should use stainless metal, that rust will flake off inside the pipe and also take out the compressor blade,

It does work well, but I would make a good cover to enclose the filter and run one of those mesh water resistant covers that K&N sells.

Here is what mine looked like after a winter of running the low intake on Colorado roads, they use sand instead of salt:cry:

JZW Man I'm sure you were bummed for a while after seeing the damage to your turbo. Believe it or not that is SS piping its just been sitting outside with a mess of other random metal pipes and has some weathering. I can put a magnet to it and theres no attraction.

SaabSS
14th November 2011, 11:27 PM
I stand corrected it isn't SS. Good advice I'll change that out tomorrow, don't need to be chewing up metal flakes!

John Z Williams
14th November 2011, 11:44 PM
I liked the performance of the lower cai, but did put it back up top just to be safe, could not afford another 1300 turbo.

If I were to do it again, I would enclose the conical filter in a box or housing, make a box somehow and fiberglass it after forming it up with cardboard and then I would also use one of those [email protected] covers that keep out moisture and small particles.

Its a great idea, you just need to make sure you do not suck up any sand or road debri like I did,

John

SaabMick
15th November 2011, 08:12 AM
If I were you, I'd just back it up closer to the outlet into the fender, basically have the larger diameter/intake piped end directly concentric with the cutout coming from the engine bay. That way you're up and out of the way more of road debris, plus you're still only sucking in "outside" air. Just a thought.

TunnanXWD
15th November 2011, 09:12 AM
I think the point here on the water is that you are now operating in an area of a lot of spray that is thrashed and churned by the tires.

But of course, then why go with water injection? :cheesy:

Sorry, I got confused and ended up peeing in the pond. :confused:

So, you end up with ambient temp, altitude, humidity and can you control boost, bends or crinkles in the pipes to the intake and what else did I miss? There used to be a "rule of thumb", that the best thing for power was being at sea level on a humid day with the temp at 33 degrees ... or some superstition like that.

If the wheel well things works, would GS or someone make a kit, or do they make a kit?

acawley22
15th November 2011, 04:44 PM
Not trying to knock your work or your opinion... but paco and jn2 have been on this board a long time, they both have modded their cars quite a bit (not just their Saab if I'm not mistaken) id listen to what they have to say and not dismiss it as nonconstructive criticism. they know their sh*t

pacotaco
15th November 2011, 05:34 PM
im not trying to knock anyone down here im just trying to say that hydrolocking is an easy thing to do... done it before and i know plenty of people who have too. it only takes a slight bit of water to cause damage in the motor, but imo the risk out weigh the benefits if your concerned about cooling your charge get a sprayer bar or section off your intake, but the gains will still be minimal.

ive seen some nasty things happen to turbos and motors just from some small little pebble or leaves or water getting sucked into the intake. the 1/2 hp gain to me is not worth my 1000-4000 dollar motor or 400-1000 dollar turbo.

tkjr5000
15th November 2011, 05:51 PM
I have always run my air filters in the wheel well and never had any problems. You would do well to take JZW advice and get a filter sock. They are hydrophobic and will keep larger particles out. NIce work!
As for hydro-locking, the problem is behind the wheel, not with the filter location.

SaabSS
15th November 2011, 06:36 PM
Not trying to knock your work or your opinion... but paco and jn2 have been on this board a long time, they both have modded their cars quite a bit (not just their Saab if I'm not mistaken) id listen to what they have to say and not dismiss it as nonconstructive criticism. they know their sh*t

I've been modding cars for a long time myself. Only had my saab for a year but have been tuning my other vehicles for over 12 years as well as growing up around performance cars. I know a thing or to as well. I prefer to be working on and driving cars over posting on forums. I've done plenty of upgrades to my cars successfully before I even knew about online forums. so the length someones been a member here doesn't mean anything.

Ill be updating this thread over time and if the CAI would fail or cause damage you all will know, until then I'm confident in the setup and will rock it faithfully.

SaabSS
15th November 2011, 06:39 PM
I have always run my air filters in the wheel well and never had any problems. You would do well to take JZW advice and get a filter sock. They are hydrophobic and will keep larger particles out. NIce work!
As for hydro-locking, the problem is behind the wheel, not with the filter location.

Thanks, I will be purchasing a filter sock for sure, and changing that pipe to stainless steel.

96mn12
17th November 2011, 12:58 PM
and you have to remove the wheel, fender cover and reassemble everything everytime you clean the filter?

Sounds like a PITA to me...

Saabstory34
17th November 2011, 01:06 PM
and you have to remove the wheel, fender cover and reassemble everything everytime you clean the filter?

Sounds like a PITA to me...

Considering they recommend cleaning the filters every 50,000-100,000 miles I dont think that is something you will be doing very often. ergo not really a PITA. I guess some people are just lazier than others...

96mn12
17th November 2011, 01:09 PM
50K Miles?!

I gotta go see a shrink then. I must be OCD since I clean mine up every 3 months. Granted I live where there is a lot of dust where I live... but damn, every 3 years or so?

Saabstory34
17th November 2011, 01:10 PM
50K Miles?!

I gotta go see a shrink then. I must be OCD since I clean mine up every 3 months. Granted I live where there is a lot of dust where I live... but damn, every 3 years or so?

Straight from their website, And yes 3 months is a little overkill I would say. but I live in a city with paved streets.

How often do I need to clean my K&N air filter?

If you have not experienced a decrease in mileage or engine performance, chances are your filter is fine and does not yet need cleaning. To be more specific, the filter does not require cleaning if you can still see the wire screen on the entire air filter regardless of how dirty it may appear. When the screen is no longer visible some place on the filter, it is time to clean it. When used in normal paved road, street or highway conditions, our replacement air filters that fit in the factory air box should require cleaning every 50,000 miles and our large conical filters on an intake system should require cleaning every 100,000 miles. When used in dusty or off-road environments, our filters will require cleaning more often. We recommend that you visually inspect your filter once every 25,000 miles to determine if the screen is still visible.

96mn12
17th November 2011, 01:11 PM
Appt with Shrink made...

:cheesy:

DanF.
21st November 2011, 03:57 PM
As for hydro-locking, the problem is behind the wheel, not with the filter location.


^ This.

camarossguy2
21st November 2011, 09:35 PM
cold air or short ram its not going to make a difference the air still has to go though the hot charger and though the heat soaked pipes under the motor, and then through the intercooler where most of the actual charge cooling is done then into the motor, so i dont think extending it 6 inches down into the fender will really do much when the air is traveling about 7 feet of heat soaked pipe. most of what your experiencing is probably in your head. stick it on a dyno if you want to prove that it did something, and if anything your getting maybe a 1 to 2 hp yield maybe not even.



Good point! I actually went and re-routed my intake to between the exhaust manifold and the block where its nice a hot but there is no chance of water touching the filter. :lol:

In all seriousness, I have a lot of experience with FI application of all kinds from cars to planes and the colder the air you get in the filter the more power regardless of the heat soak. at WOT the velocity of the air is actually faster than you would think and simply just doesn't have the time to heat up as much as you would think, especially PREturbo. If those compressor blades are able to pump in already more dense air then hot engine air, its more efficient for the turbo and with lower post turbo IATs, the computer automatically adds more timing. No, its not huge, but will be noticeable. I've always witnessed a pretty consistent temp increase from ambient to intake... for example on my past car, its was about 50 degrees with 12psi, well 40 plus nice outside 80 temps is still alot less then 120* engine bay temps plus 40*.


Unless your an idiot, water should never be an issue.

SaabSS
22nd November 2011, 12:31 AM
Good point! I actually went and re-routed my intake to between the exhaust manifold and the block where its nice a hot but there is no chance of water touching the filter. :lol:

In all seriousness, I have a lot of experience with FI application of all kinds from cars to planes and the colder the air you get in the filter the more power regardless of the heat soak. at WOT the velocity of the air is actually faster than you would think and simply just doesn't have the time to heat up as much as you would think, especially PREturbo. If those compressor blades are able to pump in already more dense air then hot engine air, its more efficient for the turbo and with lower post turbo IATs, the computer automatically adds more timing. No, its not huge, but will be noticeable. I've always witnessed a pretty consistent temp increase from ambient to intake... for example on my past car, its was about 50 degrees with 12psi, well 40 plus nice outside 80 temps is still alot less then 120* engine bay temps plus 40*.


Unless your an idiot, water should never be an issue.


Exactly. The ambient air temp any day of the year will be cooler than the air temp in the engine compartment.

SaabSS
22nd November 2011, 01:13 AM
I'ts been a week and some change since I installed the CAI. A couple of those days it rained here, nothing crazy but enough to cause puddling.

My car is running the best it has since I've owned it, especially with the Colder night time temps. I've said it from day 1 and will continue to say it, I def. feel an increase in performance, noticeable low end torque increase and simply smoother power delivery through out entire RPM range compared to the short ram. This would make even more of a difference for chipped cars for sure.

For the $35 I spent and the 1 hour of fitting, it's been well worth it. Wish I would've done it sooner.

I'll post periodic updates, any issues will be posted when they happen.

SaabSS
22nd November 2011, 01:22 AM
and you have to remove the wheel, fender cover and reassemble everything everytime you clean the filter?

Sounds like a PITA to me...

Takes less than 10 mins to remove everything, same to re- assemble. Cleaning the filter is more of a pain in the A ss.

awjones
22nd November 2011, 01:27 PM
how loud is your new setup compared to the ram-air warm-air intake?

SaabSS
22nd November 2011, 01:47 PM
how loud is your new setup compared to the ram-air warm-air intake?

From inside the car with windows up its almost the same maybe a bit quieter. With the windows down the turbo spool and BOV sound clearer and a little louder.

TickTack
23rd November 2011, 04:13 AM
listen to paco

/thread

SaabMick
23rd November 2011, 09:33 AM
All this talk, but other than pipe diameter, I'm not really seeing the benefit over the stock design, which has a "cold air" intake tube already. The difference here is just filter location and risk to filter damage/contamination. WIth a high flow drop in filter, and perhaps some better lower airbox design (larger inlet piping and a more secure fit going into the fender) you would be acheiving similar effects. The air is not just stopping at the filter and warming up, maybe at low engine draw you would get a small amount of warmer air when first transitioning to WOT, but soon you'll just be drawing from external air anyway...

Granted, I did the DIY intake, but I never expected gains, jst a little more sound/engine feel. If you really want an everyday driver with cold-air intake, and don't want the risk to hydrolocking or the extra PITA filter position, I'd look at modifying the lower stock box with a drop in to pull in cold air, rather than relocating the filter to the fender.

Oh and that power increase is most likely just the effects of hearing more engine noise. I bet if you had a turbo-back and switched back and forth between stock and your intake you'd feel no difference at all.

SaabSS
23rd November 2011, 05:00 PM
All this talk, but other than pipe diameter, I'm not really seeing the benefit over the stock design, which has a "cold air" intake tube already. The difference here is just filter location and risk to filter damage/contamination. WIth a high flow drop in filter, and perhaps some better lower airbox design (larger inlet piping and a more secure fit going into the fender) you would be acheiving similar effects. The air is not just stopping at the filter and warming up, maybe at low engine draw you would get a small amount of warmer air when first transitioning to WOT, but soon you'll just be drawing from external air anyway...

Granted, I did the DIY intake, but I never expected gains, jst a little more sound/engine feel. If you really want an everyday driver with cold-air intake, and don't want the risk to hydrolocking or the extra PITA filter position, I'd look at modifying the lower stock box with a drop in to pull in cold air, rather than relocating the filter to the fender.

Oh and that power increase is most likely just the effects of hearing more engine noise. I bet if you had a turbo-back and switched back and forth between stock and your intake you'd feel no difference at all.

Paco already established the power gain is all in my head, but the sound is a great guess as well. Keep the bogus theorys coming guys, they give me a good chuckle. Thanks

tkjr5000
24th November 2011, 09:08 AM
Paco already established the power gain is all in my head, but the sound is a great guess as well. Keep the bogus theorys coming guys, they give me a good chuckle. Thanks
How exactly did he establish that? I didn't see any dyno results with before and after runs, can you direct me to them? While he is probably right in saying it is only a 1 or 2 hp gain, it's still in his head until testing is actually done.
If you drive in any kind of traffic, it will absolutely help since the air behind the bumper isn't affected by the idling engine. It is the same concept as a larger IC. You won't gain much but you will make the same power longer.

SaabSS
24th November 2011, 11:26 AM
How exactly did he establish that? I didn't see any dyno results with before and after runs, can you direct me to them? While he is probably right in saying it is only a 1 or 2 hp gain, it's still in his head until testing is actually done.
If you drive in any kind of traffic, it will absolutely help since the air behind the bumper isn't affected by the idling engine. It is the same concept as a larger IC. You won't gain much but you will make the same power longer.

There is no numbers on gains, I simply can feel better performance with this intake compared to just the filter I had before. It is most likely 1 or 2 hp and a few lb ft of torque but i feel a stronger pull in low rpms for sure. I knows its not numbes but when I dump it in 2nd at low rpms I trip the traction control and that has never happened before. I know the Yellow blinking light isnt in my head and something caused that to start happening. Besides the fact that I put lots of miles on my car the year that I've had it so I'm pretty in tune with how it runs and can feel a difference.

booster
24th November 2011, 12:47 PM
Some of you should get a bit more familiar with the way engines operate.
This is very simple, more air in, more air out = more horsepower.
Intakes, turbos, superchargers, intake manifolds, polished head, bigger valves, wilder cams, exhaust, all help increase the volume of air you are moving through the engine. Removing airflow restrictions, help air velocity, any extra bends slow down flow of air. A simple straight pipe with a filter on the end will make a difference in how the air flows over the stock intake system. Just as increasing the diameter does for both exhaust and intake components. Some components may not yield a big difference in horsepower, however they definitely change the way power is delivered throughout the RPMs. The gains are that much more magnified on a car with forced induction.
I don't see how a Saab is any different.

pacotaco
24th November 2011, 12:57 PM
Some of you should get a bit more familiar with the way engines operate.
This is very simple, more air in, more air out = more horsepower.
Intakes, turbos, superchargers, intake manifolds, polished head, bigger valves, wilder cams, exhaust, all help increase the volume of air you are moving through the engine. Removing airflow restrictions, help air velocity, any extra bends slow down flow of air. A simple straight pipe with a filter on the end will make a difference in how the air flows over the stock intake system. Just as increasing the diameter does for both exhaust and intake components. Some components may not yield a big difference in horsepower, however they definitely change the way power is delivered throughout the RPMs. The gains are that much more magnified on a car with forced induction.
I don't see how a Saab is any different.


well number one this is short ram vs cai, so the amount of air intaked would be the exact same because it is limited by the MAF and the set reading of mass air it needs to intake @ xrpm. and even in the stock airbox there is no air flow restrictions besides the stock filter, and thats just a 30 dollar k&n drop in. in this case the only power gains that should be made would be though charge temperature.

camarossguy2
24th November 2011, 04:20 PM
well number one this is short ram vs cai, so the amount of air intaked would be the exact same because it is limited by the MAF and the set reading of mass air it needs to intake @ xrpm. and even in the stock airbox there is no air flow restrictions besides the stock filter, and thats just a 30 dollar k&n drop in. in this case the only power gains that should be made would be though charge temperature.



You really have no idea, do you? Using your logic, Why dont we all strap our intakes to a 3/4'' garden hose that snakes with many 90* turns for 8 feet? The MAF is just going to correct right?

Its all about efficiency, period. The MAF simply compares OAT to the resistance to heat its sensors that are cooled by the airflow in the intake to determine the mass of air flowing into an engine. The computer uses this info to adjust the amount of fuel needed to achieve the correct a/f ratio. IT DOES NOT limit in any way the amount of air, OR restrict the air.
At WOT, the only thing that may limit the airflow in a roundabout way is the wastegate which limits the boost.
PLEASE NOTE, Boost is not a direct correlation to airflow, in fact its almost inversely proportional.
(example, push 10 units of air through a big hole, = no pressure. Yet, push 10 units of air through small hole, will result in pressure) THE POINT IS, even at the same PSI of boost, having less resistance will result in more air, more fuel, more power


Thats why people put cams in that allow more airflow on the intake and exhaust, port heads for more flow, headers and down pipes, and guess what...CAI for more airflow. Again, think about why these add power, they allow easier, less restrictive airflow both on the intake and exhaust which, in the simplest terms, means the engine doesn't have to work as hard to make power (efficiency)

With a turbo charged car, its no different.There are several factors involved here(number choice is simply for illustration):
It takes energy to spin the turbine, which in turn creates the boost via the compressor. Think of it this way, the wastegate essentially demands the turbo to make a predetermined amount of boost (say in my example, 18psi). the waste gate closes or opens to control the amount of exhaust allowed to pass over the turbine. In a restricted system, it has to allow more energy to be pulled from the exhaust to produce the 18psi In this case 18psi may only be 50 units of air. It may rob 20hp from the motor to create 50 additional hp.
Now, port the heads, add headers, CAI, cams etc.. now to make the same 18psi, which this time allows 75 units of air. it robs only 20hp to make 90hp, resulting in a gain. Remember, boost pressure stayed the same.

Another gain is the spool time, and low rpm boost. Everyone wants to think in turns of redline at WOT, but in reality, most of the time is spent well below 6k rpm. I think this represents the most significant seat-of-the-pants gains. The easier is is to spin up the turbo and suck air into the compressor, the faster it will spool, and the more power it will make at low rpms.

To tie this into CAI, the colder, larger, shorter intake will produce the most power. You do have to balance length with temp to get the best results. Especially if your a pilot like me, you will understand how huge of an effect temperature has on performance. Specifically in regards to the OP intake, the relatively large gain from the temperature is hardly offset be a small 40* bend and extra 8'' in a large diameter pipe.

If it was me, My money would be on the OP intake compared to one in the engine compartment with a tiny filter. Plus its 1/4 the cost!

Matt1488
24th November 2011, 05:00 PM
Lol this is gonna get fun

PRD2BDF
24th November 2011, 05:12 PM
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c161/spedponcho/image.gif

Matt1488
24th November 2011, 05:28 PM
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad101/matt81488/310669_274939399195708_100000389498095_918186_2086 918391_n.jpg

derekwilkinson
24th November 2011, 07:05 PM
Are you guys all 12 years old?

brewtide
24th November 2011, 08:12 PM
You really have no idea, do you? Using your logic, Why dont we all strap our intakes to a 3/4'' garden hose that snakes with many 90* turns for 8 feet? The MAF is just going to correct right?

Its all about efficiency, period. The MAF simply compares OAT to the resistance to heat its sensors that are cooled by the airflow in the intake to determine the mass of air flowing into an engine. The computer uses this info to adjust the amount of fuel needed to achieve the correct a/f ratio. IT DOES NOT limit in any way the amount of air, OR restrict the air.
At WOT, the only thing that may limit the airflow in a roundabout way is the wastegate which limits the boost.
PLEASE NOTE, Boost is not a direct correlation to airflow, in fact its almost inversely proportional.
(example, push 10 units of air through a big hole, = no pressure. Yet, push 10 units of air through small hole, will result in pressure) THE POINT IS, even at the same PSI of boost, having less resistance will result in more air, more fuel, more power


Thats why people put cams in that allow more airflow on the intake and exhaust, port heads for more flow, headers and down pipes, and guess what...CAI for more airflow. Again, think about why these add power, they allow easier, less restrictive airflow both on the intake and exhaust which, in the simplest terms, means the engine doesn't have to work as hard to make power (efficiency)

With a turbo charged car, its no different.There are several factors involved here(number choice is simply for illustration):
It takes energy to spin the turbine, which in turn creates the boost via the compressor. Think of it this way, the wastegate essentially demands the turbo to make a predetermined amount of boost (say in my example, 18psi). the waste gate closes or opens to control the amount of exhaust allowed to pass over the turbine. In a restricted system, it has to allow more energy to be pulled from the exhaust to produce the 18psi In this case 18psi may only be 50 units of air. It may rob 20hp from the motor to create 50 additional hp.
Now, port the heads, add headers, CAI, cams etc.. now to make the same 18psi, which this time allows 75 units of air. it robs only 20hp to make 90hp, resulting in a gain. Remember, boost pressure stayed the same.

Another gain is the spool time, and low rpm boost. Everyone wants to think in turns of redline at WOT, but in reality, most of the time is spent well below 6k rpm. I think this represents the most significant seat-of-the-pants gains. The easier is is to spin up the turbo and suck air into the compressor, the faster it will spool, and the more power it will make at low rpms.

To tie this into CAI, the colder, larger, shorter intake will produce the most power. You do have to balance length with temp to get the best results. Especially if your a pilot like me, you will understand how huge of an effect temperature has on performance. Specifically in regards to the OP intake, the relatively large gain from the temperature is hardly offset be a small 40* bend and extra 8'' in a large diameter pipe.

If it was me, My money would be on the OP intake compared to one in the engine compartment with a tiny filter. Plus its 1/4 the cost!

Happy to have such people as yourself around the forum. A well written, informational justification for your position. Welcome, fellow car guy! ;)

SaabSS
24th November 2011, 10:11 PM
Happy to have such people as yourself around the forum. A well written, informational justification for your position. Welcome, fellow car guy! ;)

You said it!!

tkjr5000
24th November 2011, 10:58 PM
Happy to have such people as yourself around the forum. A well written, informational justification for your position. Welcome, fellow car guy! ;)
+1
I'm jealous that you actually took the time to type what I was thinking. Thanks for educating the tweens that run amok on this forum.
Edit: Woops, I meant to quote camarossguy

Htedagem
24th November 2011, 11:44 PM
i seriously hope this thread stays on track and doesn't go south because someone actually thought about their post before posting it.

Jblk059320t
25th November 2011, 01:17 AM
i did this a few months ago and i had people saying i would get hydrolock, a few rain storms later no problem.

the car does pull better than stock air box and, it seems to be a lot more agile than with the stock intake.

SaabSS
25th November 2011, 01:55 AM
i did this a few months ago and i had people saying i would get hydrolock, a few rain storms later no problem.

the car does pull better than stock air box and, it seems to be a lot more agile than with the stock intake.

Glad to hear You have not had any water problems. This past tuesday my area got 2" of rain which I unfortunately spent about 3 hrs driving around in and had no problems either. My experience so far has been positive, truly enjoying it. Thank you for your reply!

Matt1488
25th November 2011, 03:57 PM
saabss glad it's still working for. When I was looking at your pics again I realized that the cone is at a completely different angle than I thought. Next time im down Allentown well have to meet up.

aerojon
25th November 2011, 04:18 PM
Where the filter is located you'd only get hydrolock if you drove into about a 10" high water..

tbh that filter looks like it's got less surface area than the oe filter.also i'd be cutting off another 2" off the pipe and move the filter closer to the inner wing..

SaabSS
25th November 2011, 06:12 PM
saabss glad it's still working for. When I was looking at your pics again I realized that the cone is at a completely different angle than I thought. Next time im down Allentown well have to meet up.

Sounds good man PM me next time you will be coming around.

s ar tee 4
26th November 2011, 10:17 AM
Did you notice a change in mpgs?

SaabSS
26th November 2011, 03:04 PM
Did you notice a change in mpgs?

I havent been keeping track. I'll try to pay attention to that this week and get back to you.

SaabSS
29th November 2011, 10:43 PM
I made a few changes that should help in avoiding sucking anything into the turbo other than the freshest of air.

1. Used a shorter pipe to move the filter up as high as possible in the fender, it was a 2 3/4" in/out exhaust pipe connector which is about 3" long. This is aluminized steel which will be more resistant to rusting and flaking.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7afFaFlwiDI/TtWeEMBNWjI/AAAAAAAAGFA/1yz_Wmk7aBw/s512/100_2167.JPGhttps://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H8BP9HeKwOE/TtWeLmFxORI/AAAAAAAAGE4/F9cTzrrPq2I/s720/100_2169.JPG

2. I used a piece of sheet aluminum to close off the gap between the bottom of my front bumper and the plastic fog light access panel. I attached it to the top of the bumper lip spoiler with self tapping screws. The gap was about 3/4" wide before and was the only area for any significant water enter that I found https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NwGp-Z9PObk/TtWfKJu-dSI/AAAAAAAAGFI/yYNotLk7_7Q/s640/100_2170.JPGhttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E9a5DP1SyMc/TtWfK-rOhsI/AAAAAAAAGFQ/BzRiVYDMEwo/s512/100_2172.JPGhttps://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-espnQUms6d4/TtWfLq-opnI/AAAAAAAAGFY/TItWG_tG8cQ/s512/100_2176.JPG

SaabSS
14th December 2011, 12:12 PM
No problems with intake at all so far. Only change is color of the tubing, got rid of the chrome and painted it matte black https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jtvaN2L7Wxc/TujWl1RHwtI/AAAAAAAAGHo/oBcEKpOoVV0/s640/100_2214.JPG

Copaman
18th December 2011, 12:11 AM
Looks great, I'm thinking about doing this.

Did you do the short intake, like many people do, or did you go straight from stock to this?

I am in Bethlehem, btw...if my car becomes anything special in the next few years I'd be down for a meet, but right now I think it would just be a humbling experience for me ;)

SaabSS
18th December 2011, 12:15 AM
Looks great, I'm thinking about doing this.

Did you do the short intake, like many people do, or did you go straight from stock to this?

I am in Bethlehem, btw...if my car becomes anything special in the next few years I'd be down for a meet, but right now I think it would just be a humbling experience for me ;)

I had the short intake first then to the cold air. If you need any help with this on your car let me know.

Copaman
18th December 2011, 12:20 AM
I had the short intake first then to the cold air. If you need any help with this on your car let me know.

Can you compare the spool/BPV noise, and throttle response/spool up time between the two? I'm not planning on running my car around a track any time soon so noticeable power gains aren't necessarily important; noise and response are bigger things for me.

SaabSS
18th December 2011, 12:24 AM
Can you compare the spool/BPV noise, and throttle response/spool up time between the two? I'm not planning on running my car around a track any time soon so noticeable power gains aren't necessarily important; noise and response are bigger things for me.


From inside the car with windows up its almost the same maybe a bit quieter. With the windows down the turbo spool and BOV sound clearer and a little louder.

I feel better response with the cold air setup, as far as spool up time not a big enough change to notice.

SaabSS
6th January 2012, 10:43 PM
My cold air intake is doing excellent. No issues at all. Traveled in many rain storms and had no problems with water.

nickid
25th January 2012, 07:03 AM
I've been doing simalier intakes on other cars here in the uk for years and we have a lot of rain. As its been covered you just need to remember not to swerve into big puddles to soak the grannies at the bus stop. Lol
Only joking.
I give this diy the big thumbs up.

SaabSS
25th January 2012, 04:43 PM
I've been doing simalier intakes on other cars here in the uk for years and we have a lot of rain. As its been covered you just need to remember not to swerve into big puddles to soak the grannies at the bus stop. Lol
Only joking.
I give this diy the big thumbs up.

Thank you!! Thumbs up to the uk for keeping it real ;ol;

hollixter16
25th January 2012, 11:59 PM
my mechanic used to hold idle at 2500rpm's and pour straight cold water into the throttle body to clean the valve stems.. the cold water "shocked" the carbon off.. you wouldn't believe how good my car ran after that..

nickid
26th January 2012, 02:34 AM
That's the first time I've heard that. Might have a think about doing that.
Heard of poring in a cup of petrol slowly into the oil just before an oil change to clean it all

hollixter16
26th January 2012, 09:54 AM
marvel mystery oil works well for that.

http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/mmo/

9k905
31st January 2012, 01:41 PM
This is great! I'm currently shopping around for a 6spd sport combi 2.0T up here in Canada. I currently have a 9000 cse, and am using a similar set up (genuine saab intake adapter and apexi dual cone filter) Filter sits in the same spot in my car, and it's been there for a good 6 months now, has survived 6+ hour drives in freezing rain and slush, snow and many rainstorms without a hint of a problem.

Can't wait to do this when i get the 9-3

hollixter16
31st January 2012, 02:35 PM
my 9-3 aero is in for service for the balance chain/guide/tensioner under warranty. its been 1 day and im so sad.lol

SaabSS
31st January 2012, 03:06 PM
This is great! I'm currently shopping around for a 6spd sport combi 2.0T up here in Canada. I currently have a 9000 cse, and am using a similar set up (genuine saab intake adapter and apexi dual cone filter) Filter sits in the same spot in my car, and it's been there for a good 6 months now, has survived 6+ hour drives in freezing rain and slush, snow and many rainstorms without a hint of a problem.

Can't wait to do this when i get the 9-3

my engine has been running strange with this intake, its behaving differently than before? Its accelerating much smoother, the turbo is spooling up at lower rpms which causes this weird "seat of the pants" feeling... ;) Just messing around its not strange at all, my car is running awesome still.

This spring I'm going for 2.5" piping from the catalytic converter back to my Borla muffler. I'm getting bored with it, want it to be louder!! possibly a downpipe with my tax return. Who knows

SaabSS
13th February 2012, 09:09 PM
It's been 3 months now since installation of the CAI. I took the K&N filter out today to if it needed to be cleaned and surprisingly it's pretty damn clean still. My filter used to get dirtier than this after 3 months in the engine compartment.

Here are pics.

After 3 Months in fender well - New when installed
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4M8T67SMGTA/TznBGH5u-oI/AAAAAAAAGM8/RbVN4h1Vnk8/s629/FILTER1.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gU5x04-qJGE/TznBFvqBTcI/AAAAAAAAGNA/qV6clzXKNsI/s629/filter2.jpg

9k905
13th February 2012, 09:19 PM
This may have been answered, but out of curiosity, what diameter piping did you use, and what is the diameter of the stock intake tube that runs from the turbo to airbox. I just pulled my intake off my 9000, and this is the first thing I will prob do to my 9-3 when i get it next week

SaabSS
13th February 2012, 09:23 PM
This may have been answered, but out of curiosity, what diameter piping did you use, and what is the diameter of the stock intake tube that runs from the turbo to airbox. I just pulled my intake off my 9000, and this is the first thing I will prob do to my 9-3 when i get it next week

the pipe from turbo to MAF is still stock, from MAF forward The piping is 2.75" ID (I think they sell it as 3").

9k905
13th February 2012, 09:27 PM
Awesome thanks, so the OD would prob be near-as-makes-no-difference 3" from your filter to the stock piping. Did you have to use a reducing coupler to attach that 2.75" id pipes to the factory pipe?

2.3LiterCivicBeater
13th February 2012, 09:59 PM
4cyl 9-5s have had their filters down in the fender like that from 99-09...

ha why is everyone so worked up that he moved the filter

SaabSS
14th February 2012, 02:11 PM
Awesome thanks, so the OD would prob be near-as-makes-no-difference 3" from your filter to the stock piping. Did you have to use a reducing coupler to attach that 2.75" id pipes to the factory pipe?

Yes either a reducer or a spacer ring that takes up the gap between the MAF and the 3" pipe

SaabSS
22nd February 2012, 02:33 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=pI1Q8Pqauoo#t=70s

I just came across this Video. It is of the neobrothers Saab 9-3ss Race car being dyno tuned by Maptun, made around 400hp. anyways pay attention to the intake location in this video...

Jblk059320t
22nd February 2012, 11:06 AM
thats where mine is

03_9-3Vector_PA
29th February 2012, 04:11 AM
I personally would not be concerned with water entry/hydrolocking.

You have the plastic dam covering the front part then the plastic fenderwell protecting the rest. I would practice common sense and not drive through large puddles.

Looks really nice!

I agree, it looks nice!!
Did you get a CEL on?
Thanks for you help!

SaabSS
29th February 2012, 02:14 PM
I agree, it looks nice!!
Did you get a CEL on?
Thanks for you help!

No CEL came on

rhymesayers90
2nd March 2012, 11:19 AM
Looks like a great idea to me. some questions though. from other threads ive seen every one says keep the stock diameter intake piping if you diy cuz if you go bigger its gonna lean the car out way more. also i heard that k&n air filters will cause a bad cel. i guess those arent questions more comments that i question. lol. also what do they mean by cel?? sry. im a noob

Saabstory34
2nd March 2012, 11:28 AM
Looks like a great idea to me. some questions though. from other threads ive seen every one says keep the stock diameter intake piping if you diy cuz if you go bigger its gonna lean the car out way more. also i heard that k&n air filters will cause a bad cel. i guess those arent questions more comments that i question. lol. also what do they mean by cel?? sry. im a noob

CEL is Check Engine Light, its not the K&N air filter that causes the CEL, rather their whole intake kit that caused the CEL. And as long as the diameter from the airflow sensor back is either stock or the same diameter as stock you are fine, in front of the sensor it does not matter.

SaabSS
2nd March 2012, 11:01 PM
Looks like a great idea to me. some questions though. from other threads ive seen every one says keep the stock diameter intake piping if you diy cuz if you go bigger its gonna lean the car out way more. also i heard that k&n air filters will cause a bad cel. i guess those arent questions more comments that i question. lol. also what do they mean by cel?? sry. im a noob


I had no Check engine lights come on since intake installation. Here is a pic of my plugs, these are not cleaned with anything before taking picture. The color is brownish red, which means running normal if anything a bit rich. The red is from additives from lower quality gas, does not indicate any problems.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xaXy24V5Vb4/T1GVvsRB0iI/AAAAAAAAGPE/Vp7F0ASF77E/s658/S5030144.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RyS5GwK0vRs/T1GVwe5R3ZI/AAAAAAAAGPM/LKZxEJ-P_I4/s729/S5030135.JPG

Jplipper
5th March 2012, 02:13 PM
Great job with this CAI! I'm going to give this a whirl myself.

DOZER520
6th March 2012, 01:48 PM
In the atv world we run thin covers over our open intake air filters that serve as prefilter. they are very breathable and water repels off of them, they don't rob any hp and would be a nice extra bit of protection. outerwears is one company that is very popular.

there's a performance company called esr that makes a very nice large filter similar to the k & n comes with a cover as well, they are like 3"x6", fit nicely in lots of applications as they aren't big and round , they have a 3" openning and aren't very expensive.

j-y
6th March 2012, 09:21 PM
In the atv world we run thin covers over our open intake air filters that serve as prefilter. they are very breathable and water repels off of them, they don't rob any hp and would be a nice extra bit of protection. outerwears is one company that is very popular.

there's a performance company called esr that makes a very nice large filter similar to the k & n comes with a cover as well, they are like 3"x6", fit nicely in lots of applications as they aren't big and round , they have a 3" openning and aren't very expensive.

Are you referring to BSR?

shuizzy
6th March 2012, 09:34 PM
Are you referring to BSR?

esr is a company that make atv filters

Gs04aero
8th March 2012, 06:07 PM
Nice job. I don't have my filter down there but that's where my intake piping starts to get colder air. Kept the stock box so if it pulls up water it will stay in the box. Be carfeul over puddles with your filter that low.

Lancer6x
11th March 2012, 06:08 PM
hey i researched this a few months ago and i'm on spring break, so SaabSS, im gonna give this a try this week hopefully and i will let you know how it feels afterwards. i'll be going from stock airbox so it should be interesting.

SaabSS
11th March 2012, 07:26 PM
hey i researched this a few months ago and i'm on spring break, so SaabSS, im gonna give this a try this week hopefully and i will let you know how it feels afterwards. i'll be going from stock airbox so it should be interesting.

Good to hear! Yeah let me know how it turns out.

vannatte
2nd April 2012, 01:23 AM
I did this today, easy mod if you've already done the short ram. Here are pics of my install. Fitment would've been better with a tall, narrow filter.

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn225/vannatte/IMAG0729.jpg

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn225/vannatte/IMAG0726.jpg

SaabSS
2nd April 2012, 02:18 AM
[QUOTE=vannatte;2172035]I did this today, easy mod if you've already done the short ram. Here are pics of my install. Fitment would've been better with a tall, narrow filter.

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn225/vannatte/IMAG0729.jpg

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn225/vannatte/IMAG0726.jpg[/QUOTE

Nice! Glad to see someone doing the mod and posting is up!

taz38501
11th April 2012, 09:19 PM
Do you think that could be done to a 1996 saab 900 se 2.5 v6 I know it is a different body style but just curious

vannatte
11th April 2012, 11:32 PM
[QUOTE=vannatte;2172035]I did this today, easy mod if you've already done the short ram. Here are pics of my install. Fitment would've been better with a tall, narrow filter.


Nice! Glad to see someone doing the mod and posting is up!

In hindsight, that short filter may be best. It was a tight fit, but I think it will be much less likely to get wet that way.

Lancer6x
11th April 2012, 11:48 PM
Do you think that could be done to a 1996 saab 900 se 2.5 v6 I know it is a different body style but just curious

Take a look under your airbox. if there's air tubing running to in front of your wheel well i don't see why you wouldn't be able to do this. if not you could always make a hole.

taz38501
12th April 2012, 10:28 AM
I use to have short ram on my older saab but have not seen it the way I think it should look. I think that you could take some intake pipe from the motor clamp to the MAF sensor and then use more intake pipe to look like an aem cold air intake since they do make a cold air intake kit for the 2.5 v6 motor for my 1996 saab

taz38501
12th April 2012, 10:29 AM
How much did the whole project cost you just give me an estimate

vannatte
12th April 2012, 10:29 AM
I use to have short ram on my older saab but have not seen it the way I think it should look. I think that you could take some intake pipe from the motor clamp to the MAF sensor and then use more intake pipe to look like an aem cold air intake since they do make a cold air intake kit for the 2.5 v6 motor for my 1996 saab

I'm not familiar with this year, take a picture of your engine and post it.

vannatte
12th April 2012, 10:31 AM
How much did the whole project cost you just give me an estimate

$50-$60 if you go all the way into the wheel well. $30-$40 for short ram. All from Autozone.

taz38501
13th April 2012, 12:03 AM
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/829718/1996-saab-900#8297180002

Here is a picture of a person that has a image of there engine bay
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/829718/1996-saab-900#8297180002

vannatte
13th April 2012, 09:34 AM
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/829718/1996-saab-900#8297180002

Here is a picture of a person that has a image of there engine bay
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/829718/1996-saab-900#8297180002

This looks alot like the 2.0 engine...not sure why you couldn't do a true CAI.

taz38501
13th April 2012, 10:32 PM
just thought i would double check I posted the question in the NG900 and only got one repostance and everyone just showed short ram intake stuff

vannatte
14th April 2012, 12:46 AM
just thought i would double check I posted the question in the NG900 and only got one repostance and everyone just showed short ram intake stuff

It's because almost no one does the true CAI into the fenderwell. It can be done pretty easily on the 2.0 and you're safe from hydrolock as long as you don't drive through any huge puddles.

taz38501
14th April 2012, 11:45 AM
what is hydrolock? I have never heard of it

vannatte
14th April 2012, 03:51 PM
what is hydrolock? I have never heard of it

Water getting sucked in through the filter causing the engine to lock up. Seems unlikely to happen.

taz38501
14th April 2012, 11:05 PM
that makes sense I went to price my parts at autozone just for the filter $25 and $11.99 for a intakle pipe

03OHarc
17th June 2012, 10:53 PM
What was the brand of the stainless tubing? Did you have to leave the sensor attached?

taz38501
18th June 2012, 09:49 PM
The brand he used is spectre brand but the part attached to the filter is probably a piece of 3 inch exhaust pipe cut. And you have to the leave the sensor or you will miss up a $400 dollar Mass Air Flow Sensor or MASF

SaabMick
19th June 2012, 08:33 AM
*MAF

ANd that's way above, if all you're looking to do is the short ram intake take a look at the other thread "$40 Short Ram Intake DIY" (not actually the name I don't think....but close enough). Basically you're cutting just the box portion off of your stock intake box and leaving as much stock tubing in place as possible.

03OHarc
19th June 2012, 12:25 PM
What about the tube that connects to the front of the stock airbox, did you leave that? What does it connect to? 2003 9-3 arc thanks

vannatte
19th June 2012, 12:29 PM
What about the tube that connects to the front of the stock airbox, did you leave that? What does it connect to? 2003 9-3 arc thanks

Just buy a small conical air filter from AutoZone and place it on that hose.

03OHarc
19th June 2012, 04:59 PM
i know i can do that, but I would like to clean it up a bit...Is it necessary? Could I purchase some more tubing and run it that way? Do you know what its used for?

sorry for all the questions, i have only owned my saab for a few months and I am just now realizing all the potential

taz38501
19th June 2012, 11:12 PM
A mass air flow sensor is used to find out the mass (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass) flowrate (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flowrate) of air (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air) entering a fuel-injected (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel-injected) internal combustion engine (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_combustion_engine). The air mass information is necessary for the engine control unit (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_control_unit) (ECU) to balance and deliver the correct fuel mass to the engine. Air changes its density as it expands and contracts with temperature and pressure. In automotive applications, air density (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Density) varies with the ambient temperature (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temperature), altitude (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Altitude) and the use of forced induction (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forced_induction), which means that mass flow sensors are more appropriate than volumetric flow (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volumetric_flow) sensors for determining the quantity of intake air in each piston stroke. (See stoichiometry (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stoichiometry) and ideal gas law (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law).)
And most people try not to clean it up that much do to the extra sensor along the pipe

03OHarc
20th June 2012, 09:56 AM
i know what a MAF is, i am asking about this 30070

keraj007
20th June 2012, 10:13 AM
Secondary Air Injection (SAI)

03OHarc
20th June 2012, 11:07 AM
what does it do/is it necessary? is there anyway to make it look better?

Titansaab27
20th June 2012, 12:48 PM
SAI takes air from the intake and pumps it into the exhaust for cold start emissions. I suppose so long as its not blocked off it shouldnt matter where you get the air from but im not sure where you could route it to

SAABalingus
6th July 2012, 01:48 AM
my 9-3 aero is in for service for the balance chain/guide/tensioner under warranty. its been 1 day and im so sad.lol

Was there a recall or something for this, you said warranty and I see your car is a 2004. How is it covered under warranty? Thanks

taz38501
7th January 2013, 11:31 PM
did you notice any gains from this intake setup or not much at all?

iksnoved25
7th January 2013, 11:41 PM
did you notice any gains from this intake setup or not much at all?

minimal if that. these types of air intakes on our cars usually just provide a louder "blow off" noise

taz38501
8th January 2013, 12:20 AM
The reason I asked because I did a short ram setup on my 95 name Saab and wanting to do more performance upgrades

vannatte
8th January 2013, 12:02 PM
Like others have said, minimal gains, but the "swoosh" noise is worth it for most. Save yourself some money and just buy the parts from AutoZone. You can do a short ram or a long ram into the fender too. I'd think since the long ram goes into the fender, it's more of a true Cold Air Intake.

SaabSS
8th January 2013, 05:06 PM
did you notice any gains from this intake setup or not much at all?

Yea i noticed a small increase in power, a bit quicker throttle response. I went from a short ram to the cold air setup and the noise level from the turbo and blow off valve went down a bit inside the car, but louder from outside the car.

All in all the money that it costs and the ease of install was worth it

TunnanXWD
9th January 2013, 11:18 AM
I was thinking of some very base mods to my Corvette to get it to Z06 standards and with a very experienced shop manager, his first words were "do you plan on driving in the rain?" which in Jersey is a no brainer. Normally they would install a "Vararam" cold air but now that one is out since he does not recommend it in the rain. Just be reaistic and perhaps even test it in the driveway with a hose to see how much splash get in that area.

I would consider using a foam (pipe insuation), where the clamp goes through the fender. That looks like it's going to be a rub spot.

billm0066
9th January 2013, 11:36 AM
Cold air intakes are a huge waste of money on turbocharged cars. Saab has a good system, and it's pulling air from the front of the car. I don't see why you would want to change that.

awjones
9th January 2013, 01:07 PM
Cold air intakes are a huge waste of money on turbocharged cars. Saab has a good system, and it's pulling air from the front of the car. I don't see why you would want to change that.

only real advantage is colder intake temps at idle. maybe 5 degrees, so 0.5hp maybe?

billm0066
9th January 2013, 01:51 PM
only real advantage is colder intake temps at idle. maybe 5 degrees, so 0.5hp maybe?

.5hp at idle?

xp3
9th January 2013, 02:49 PM
.5hp at idle?

LOL, made my day :lol:

awjones
9th January 2013, 08:45 PM
.5hp at idle?

Lol ya that was dumb. After all my iat logging, im happy with the optiflow.. But props to op for initiative.

Tryst
10th January 2013, 06:18 PM
you can claim it feels faster alll you want... ever heard of the placebo effect its when you want to think something is working so in your head you make it work.
If you use a car regularly, you can often feel when something is wrong long before a mechanic can even find a problem with it. The other day, I drove home from work and something just wasn't right with the handling. When I checked all around the car, I found that a front tire was low on pressure, down from 32 PSI to 28 PSI. After pumping it back up to 32, the car felt fine again. I actually felt that 4 PSI drop in pressure with is really a negligible amount. If you really know your car, you CAN feel even the slightest change.

pacotaco
10th January 2013, 06:58 PM
If you use a car regularly, you can often feel when something is wrong long before a mechanic can even find a problem with it. The other day, I drove home from work and something just wasn't right with the handling. When I checked all around the car, I found that a front tire was low on pressure, down from 32 PSI to 28 PSI. After pumping it back up to 32, the car felt fine again. I actually felt that 4 PSI drop in pressure with is really a negligible amount. If you really know your car, you CAN feel even the slightest change.

tire pressure is a completely different thing, i don't think that is a sound comparison.

SaabSS
15th March 2013, 08:09 PM
It's been 1 year and some change since I installed the CAI. I haven't had any issues whatsoever, still the same motor, no hydro-lock. The only change made was replacing the junk spectre tube sections with one solid Section from the MAF down to the filter, See picture below.

So just wanted to reassure any one doubtful or unsure if they want to go for a cold air setup because of potential damage to engine, that it is a safe and sound upgrade. I cant guarantee that nothing will happen to your car, but I've driven through some serious weather conditions over the last year+ racking up 25,000 miles and had no issues. Anyone in the northeast can agree that we've had some $hity weather.

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/487619_10151485526246037_98961578_n.jpg

Burner6999
15th March 2013, 09:45 PM
Can you tell me what you did at your throttle body?

TylerL
15th March 2013, 10:39 PM
Can you tell me what you did at your throttle body?

This ^


Sent from AutoGuide.com App (http://www.autoguide.com/mobile)

rb88
15th March 2013, 10:41 PM
Can you tell me what you did at your throttle body?
This..

Edit literally posted this at the same time.

Gah3535
16th March 2013, 03:55 AM
Can you tell me how you painted your valve cover D:?

Also I remember my 99 9-5 had the air filter right by the wheel well.

Burner6999
16th March 2013, 03:58 AM
I didnt do it yet but have on other cars. I always just take it off and clean it really well then sand and paint with high temp engine enamel.

SaabSS
16th March 2013, 02:57 PM
Can you tell me what you did at your throttle body?


a 45 deg bend silicon hose for the most of it. an aluminum low profile 90 bend coming off throttle body. i believe the silicon was vibrant
Sent with Verizon Mobile Email
March 12 at 5:09pm via ∑ Like

SaabSS
16th March 2013, 03:02 PM
Can you tell me how you painted your valve cover D:?

Also I remember my 99 9-5 had the air filter right by the wheel well.

When I replaced valve cover gasket while it was off I de -greased it thoroughly, sanded with 400 grit sandpaper, primed with krylon primer and painted with krylon paint, I forget what color it actually is labeled as. As far as the middle aluminum cover, I painted that a handful of different colors, just unbolt it de - grease it sand it and prime / paint. I didn't use high temp paint either time and it came out decent, so that's your call. Hope this helps

Burner6999
16th March 2013, 03:05 PM
Where did you get the 90 from?

SaabSS
16th March 2013, 03:17 PM
Where did you get the 90 from?

well I lucked out and found it at a yard sale for $5, but after doing some digging I found its made by Injen, other people on the Facebook group "SAABs of the Mid-Atlantic" dug into it further and found it is from an 01-05 civic intake kit. not sure if is available seperately.

Burner6999
16th March 2013, 03:27 PM
Yeah I found this (http://www.customcarscentral.com/injis1565-honda-civic--01-05-.html), but cant find it by itself anywhere. Thanks for the response though.

SaabSS
16th March 2013, 03:58 PM
Yeah I found this (http://www.customcarscentral.com/injis1565-honda-civic--01-05-.html), but cant find it by itself anywhere. Thanks for the response though.

Yea it fits so well, works perfect. Best of luck.

vannatte
18th March 2013, 11:59 PM
Water getting sucked in through the filter causing the engine to lock up. Seems unlikely to happen.

I've been meaning to post this for awhile, but I ALMOST ate these words. As I have previously posted, I put my CAI into the wheel well. For those that are familiar with that area of the car, it is not very water tight. During a 3 hour drive in a heavy rain, my car went into limp mode. Luckily only the filter and MAF got wet. I couldn't get the car to run right and thought I'd hydrolocked it, but thankfully after cleaning and drying out the filter (and moving it back into the engine bay) and cleaned the MAF, all was well. So for anyone thinking about doing this, I'd leave it in the engine bay.

SaabSS
20th March 2013, 06:10 PM
I've been meaning to post this for awhile, but I ALMOST ate these words. As I have previously posted, I put my CAI into the wheel well. For those that are familiar with that area of the car, it is not very water tight. During a 3 hour drive in a heavy rain, my car went into limp mode. Luckily only the filter and MAF got wet. I couldn't get the car to run right and thought I'd hydrolocked it, but thankfully after cleaning and drying out the filter (and moving it back into the engine bay) and cleaned the MAF, all was well. So for anyone thinking about doing this, I'd leave it in the engine bay.

i sealed my inner fender up a bit to prevent water from splashing up to my filter and havent had any issues myself. but thats a risk that you take with this setup.

AChap52
17th June 2014, 11:05 PM
It's been 1 year and some change since I installed the CAI. I haven't had any issues whatsoever, still the same motor, no hydro-lock. The only change made was replacing the junk spectre tube sections with one solid Section from the MAF down to the filter, See picture below.

So just wanted to reassure any one doubtful or unsure if they want to go for a cold air setup because of potential damage to engine, that it is a safe and sound upgrade. I cant guarantee that nothing will happen to your car, but I've driven through some serious weather conditions over the last year+ racking up 25,000 miles and had no issues. Anyone in the northeast can agree that we've had some $hity weather.

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/487619_10151485526246037_98961578_n.jpg

Where did you get the solid black piping? Was it custom made because it looks like it fits perfect. And to comment on this whole hydrolocking debate, it shouldn't be a worry. I run an open filter in the wheel well of my cobalt Ss which gets plenty of water from the tires and it has never given me a problem from just the rain. I hit about a foot and a half of water at about 45mph or better and the car still never hydrolocked. It sputtered and almost shut off but I put it in reverse and got out of there asap! I just see it as my engine getting a nice steam cleaning:cheesy: But I think if my engine survived that than rain and water droplets are no problem. The supercharged cobalt Ss also has the same exact motor except its supercharged instead of turbo. So it still sucks in plenty of air. I would not run this setup without a prefilter. They really do make a difference. My car would act like it was hitting the rev limiter almost when I would floor it in wet conditions due to the water mist coating the MAF. After the prefilter, it runs the same wet or dry conditions.

duchski
5th August 2015, 05:41 PM
i sealed my inner fender up a bit to prevent water from splashing up to my filter and havent had any issues myself. but thats a risk that you take with this setup.

I would still be very cautious...

SaabSS
8th August 2015, 02:26 AM
It's been years now and no issues.

mprim14
7th November 2015, 03:05 AM
I have a 2008 and am very interested in attempting this. I am confident that I can install with no issues, though I have a few concerns.
1. I read (forget where) that on 2003 & 2008 models there is a second hose connected to the stock airbox that would make the DIY CAI not possible. I'm sure it is still possible but do you have any insight to this?
2.I am missing the black shield at the very bottom and front of the bumper (was displayed in one of your pictures). I worry that this would leave me much more susceptible to water getting in, as you even further sealed it with aluminum. Would the pre filter (filter sock) maybe protect my intake enough to make this not an issue? I live in Florida where it rains A LOT, big puddles and heavy rain on the regular.
3. I already have the K&N racing filter installed in my stock airbox. Would this be a decrease in performance? I'm more interested in the badass noise increase from it than negligible amounts of power, but hey, we all love to preform the best we can.
Thanks for the guide and all your helpful insight! I've had my Saab for almost there years now and I don't know why I've just now come to these forums.

Swartzy
7th November 2015, 01:48 PM
I can comment on a couple things here..


1. I read (forget where) that on 2003 & 2008 models there is a second hose connected to the stock airbox that would make the DIY CAI not possible. I'm sure it is still possible but do you have any insight to this?

I have a 2010 2.0T with the XWD system, and I have the hose you are talking about. It's the hose for the SAI (secondary air injection) and you can tell whether you have it by just looking at the intake box, there will be a hose connected to the box near the front of the car (see picture). You can put a small cone filter (sold at advance ap or autozone) on that hose if you wish to do this modification.

3. I already have the K&N racing filter installed in my stock airbox. Would this be a decrease in performance? I'm more interested in the badass noise increase from it than negligible amounts of power, but hey, we all love to preform the best we can.

The stock airbox already has an intake tube that's routed down to close to the bottom of the bumper. Any gains in performance would be negligible; the stock box isn't restrictive enough in the first place and you'd be pulling in air from the same spot. This mod is simply for the looks and sound. An alternative is using the stock box and modifying it to accept a cone filter, I have to say it does make a big difference in sound!

vannatte
8th November 2015, 09:09 PM
I have a 2008 and am very interested in attempting this. I am confident that I can install with no issues, though I have a few concerns.
1. I read (forget where) that on 2003 & 2008 models there is a second hose connected to the stock airbox that would make the DIY CAI not possible. I'm sure it is still possible but do you have any insight to this?
2.I am missing the black shield at the very bottom and front of the bumper (was displayed in one of your pictures). I worry that this would leave me much more susceptible to water getting in, as you even further sealed it with aluminum. Would the pre filter (filter sock) maybe protect my intake enough to make this not an issue? I live in Florida where it rains A LOT, big puddles and heavy rain on the regular.
3. I already have the K&N racing filter installed in my stock airbox. Would this be a decrease in performance? I'm more interested in the badass noise increase from it than negligible amounts of power, but hey, we all love to preform the best we can.
Thanks for the guide and all your helpful insight! I've had my Saab for almost there years now and I don't know why I've just now come to these forums.

2.I am missing the black shield at the very bottom and front of the bumper (was displayed in one of your pictures). I worry that this would leave me much more susceptible to water getting in, as you even further sealed it with aluminum. Would the pre filter (filter sock) maybe protect my intake enough to make this not an issue? I live in Florida where it rains A LOT, big puddles and heavy rain on the regular.

I would be cautious. I had a cold air intake in the fender of my Saturn Redline with zero issues, so I figured I'd have no problem doing it in my Saab, but I was wrong. The black shield is not water tight enough and will let water up there. A prefilter sock may help, but one 3 hour drive for me in a normal rainstorm and I had water in my intake. Luckily no hydrolock, just had to dry it out and clean the MAF.

Artfulkatana
7th January 2016, 05:27 PM
I can comment on a couple things here..

I REALLLLLY like that cut into the stock airbox, down right genius. What did you do for the bottom portion of the airbox?

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Swartzy
8th January 2016, 12:54 AM
I REALLLLLY like that cut into the stock airbox, down right genius. What did you do for the bottom portion of the airbox?

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Haha most definitely clever, I saw a bunch of guys on here that did the same thing so I tried it, and love it. The bottom portion I left alone, the filter I used fits in there pretty well. If I did it again I'd try to cut away or heat/form some of the bottom portion though, to get the filter to sit lower (seems like its pressed against the hood insulation w/ hood shut) I suppose that creates a better heat-shield :cool:;)

Artfulkatana
8th January 2016, 11:07 AM
Haha most definitely clever, I saw a bunch of guys on here that did the same thing so I tried it, and love it. The bottom portion I left alone, the filter I used fits in there pretty well. If I did it again I'd try to cut away or heat/form some of the bottom portion though, to get the filter to sit lower (seems like its pressed against the hood insulation w/ hood shut) I suppose that creates a better heat-shield :cool:;)
When I tried to use the bottom half it pressed pretty tightly against the hood. But I also have a larger filter, so that doesn't help [emoji12]

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

SaabSS
25th March 2016, 11:40 PM
Well, I've been sporting the true cold air intake for 40,000 ish miles now without an issue. Been through which seemed like monsoon conditions at the time, splashed through a many of puddles and no hydro-locking.

This setup is well worth the consideration over a short ram intake, which is only going to pull hot air and possibly perform less than the stock air box.