OBD II Trouble code P1110

[Ntmyddscar]

Anyone know what P1110 translates to? Posted a couple days ago about constant on CEL. Reset it, it camr back on after an hour of driving. Unplugged the battery, is was off, came back on after 10 minutes of driving. Whats that code tellin me?

[earthworm]

P1110

—

O2S Heating Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2 Short To B+


Check out the heating circuits in your oxygen sensors

Bank 2 - the system is set up to accomodate V6 and V8 engines
Ignore, if we have a inline engine ??
Sensor 2 is the one downstream that verifies that the catatylic convertor is effective, I think.
Short to B+ ???

But one may have to ignore all of this as this table of codes is for Motronic, up to 2000... http://www.troublecodes.net/Saab/

[Old Goat]

Hmmm, if it is a failure of the heating circuit, at least according to the old definitions, and it states its a short to B+, I would think that either the hot leg of the heating circuit is reading to ground or the heater element in the O2 sensor is shorting. Looking at the Haynes wiring diagram, (granted for an older vehicle), they have one wire going to the heater, the other side going to ground (earth), and the third wire going to the sensing element (the other side going to ground supposedly through the casing.) Its basically saying that the heater feed is having its voltage brought to near 0, it is expecting that voltage to be the nominal voltage.

[Ntmyddscar]

Ok, so if it has to do with the heating, is it possible thats why when the cars really warmed up, and I take sharp right turns, a heating fan somewhere in the dash sounds like it grinding into something? And when I've only been sitting for 5 minutes in the car, with the car off, but the stereo on, the battery goes dead?

[Old Goat]

Originally Posted by Ntmyddscar

Ok, so if it has to do with the heating, is it possible thats why when the cars really warmed up, and I take sharp right turns, a heating fan somewhere in the dash sounds like it grinding into something? And when I've only been sitting for 5 minutes in the car, with the car off, but the stereo on, the battery goes dead?

No, the noise in the dash area is totally different.
The heater is to make the sensor warm enough to read. It doesn't like the cold.

The battery shouldn't die with just the radio on. If the battery dies, how do you get the car going again? How often do you have to do this?

[Viggen Dave]

At the risk of diasagreeing with the esteemed Earthworm, I suggest another possibility. When my T7 car was throwing P1110 codes, the problem was the turbo bypass valve, often abbreviated BPV.

That led me to the information that P1110 is a fault code for fluctuations in charge air pressure. If the BPV is bad, you may hear a "fluttering" sound, especially when you lift throttle.

I understand that P1110 can also result from problems with the solenoid that controls the BPV, or from wiring problems or vacuum leaks in the vicinity of the BPV or its solenoid.

If you have a Saab-driving buddy, you could switch the BPV from car to car in 5 minutes, and see if the problem follows the hardware.

Good luck!

Dave

[Old Goat]

Earthworm did mention that the codes might not be the same. Good information there Viggen Dave.

[Ntmyddscar]

Thanks for the explenation! Its headed to the "spa" Monday. I do have a saab buddy, hes got a '99 9-3"s". I'll see if he'll switch it around for me. Would it be normal under hard exceleration for the BPV to blow off? Under hard exceleration, I hear it blow off, like a little BOV, but my brother said I cant have a BOV on my car cause of the O2 sensors and it would burn through my cat. Either way I'll have the hoses and stuff checked out. The battery thing makes no sense to me, if I sit in the car for 10-15 minutes with the radio and seperate XM going, the car dies, but if I shut it off and wait 10-15 minutes, it'll start back up again. I dont usually sit there with just the stereo going, but I dont see how it recharges and starts up again. I'm so confused. Anyone wanna buy a car?

[Ntmyddscar]

Can you give me a list of what I should replace or repair?

[earthworm]

Originally Posted by Ntmyddscar

Ok, so if it has to do with the heating, is it possible thats why when the cars really warmed up, and I take sharp right turns, a heating fan somewhere in the dash sounds like it grinding into something? And when I've only been sitting for 5 minutes in the car, with the car off, but the stereo on, the battery goes dead?

I doubt is this "heating fan" has anything to do with these problems..
The battery and the correct voltage are very important in these computer controlled cars of today. It seems as if the battery is failing the "impromptu"(listeneing to a radio) load test.
Have the battery/charging system serviced and re-new as necessary..
Better yet, DIY..
The honorable ViggenDave is correct; it is always better when info is verified by others...consensus is very important..

[keratos68]

The following is from WIS. Applicable to 9-3 upto 1999. Not sure what your car year is, you didnt say!

Anyway:

P1110 Swirl Control Valve Circuit. Open/Short to Ground

DTC indicating electrical malfunction in the swirl throttle circuit/air control valve. A mechanical malfunction can be noticed by loss of performance above 3500rpm if the throttle has stuck in the closed position. If throttle never closes then no symptoms.

TEST:
Unplug connector to swirl throttle (403). Round daisy looking thing behind the battery.

Use test lamp to connect pin 1 of connector to a good ground. Light should illuminate. If it does not then connector/crimp is faulty.

If the lamp illuminates then there are several other procedures that unfortuneatly require the TechII and I guess you wont have one - so its a dealer job and most likely a new air valve.

[Viggen Dave]

Originally Posted by Ntmyddscar

Can you give me a list of what I should replace or repair?

This is the BPV:

http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdet...ts=1&code=4849

It can really be changed in 5 minutes, so it's hardly worth the trip to the shop. Some people won't agree with this philosophy, but if something is cheap, easy to replace, and prone to failure, I'll often change it at the first compatible symptom. That's easier than hauling the car to the shop, dropping it off, getting a ride home, then having to get a ride back to the shop when the car is ready.

I suppose you could take the same approach toward the failing battery. It just depends how far it is to the shop.

[Ntmyddscar]

I turned the radio off in my car today when I drove it home, everytime I let off the throttle after the turbo had spooled up, I heard the fluttering. I'm going to assume its my BPV and order one, unless its something most dealerships would keep stocked. Its still safe to drive the car around, assuming its the BPV right? Oh, and my cars the 2001 SE, forgot to mention that. Sorry for seeming completely clueless, its my first turbo-charged car.

[Viggen Dave]

Originally Posted by Ntmyddscar

I turned the radio off in my car today when I drove it home, everytime I let off the throttle after the turbo had spooled up, I heard the fluttering. I'm going to assume its my BPV and order one, unless its something most dealerships would keep stocked. Its still safe to drive the car around, assuming its the BPV right?

Mine was having intermittent problems for several weeks before I got it figured out, and it didn't do any harm. The general rule is that as long as the check engine light isn't blinking, you're not in danger of imminent damage.

The dealer probably stocks these, but the eEuroparts price is likely to be half of the dealer price. And they ship quickly.

[barbart22]

Hey Viggen Dave, Thanks for advice on P1110 and BPV. $58 and 5 minutes and my check engine light of 3 months is gone. Thought I'd get taken for hundreds at the Saab Dealer plus loss of car for a day. This is much more rewarding.

[Viggen Dave]

Glad to help... and welcome to Saab Central.

There are a lot of smart people on here. I think you'll enjoy it.