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  #1  
Old 11th February 2007
flawseeker flawseeker is offline
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Default Upgrading rear speakers on 2003 9-3 Linear

I just bought a 2003 9-3 Linear with the 7-speaker audio system. The bass is gone so I am taking it to the dealer to be warranty repaired this week. At this point I have not heard the system operating correctly. Judging from the size and build of the speakers in the rear deck, the bass response will be weak. Any thoughts on this?

I am contemplating adding 6x9's and an external amplifier to augment the low end. The Soundstream SST6.9 speakers are highly rated and are bi-ampable. The Alpine PDX-2.150 is a very efficient amplifier that has speaker-level inputs, an adjustable crossover, and can easy drive 2-ohm loads using the 30-amp supply available in the trunk.

I've read the tech notes on adding amps and was wondering if the only sub-100Hz signal is available from the amp under the front-left seat? Could the 4" speakers in the rear deck be tapped?

Another question is whether this setup is overkill. I want to really fill in below 50Hz. Would 150Wx2 at 60Hz and below overpower everything else?

Thanks in advance!
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  #2  
Old 11th February 2007
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You may have uncovered the weakest link in your new ride! Unfortunately the stereo in it's stock mode is terrible, please search thru the many threads on this topic and you'll find all kinds of ideas that address this issue. Congrats on your car purchase and welcome to SC.

Last edited by saab93osu; 11th February 2007 at 01:24 PM.
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  #3  
Old 11th February 2007
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The only place to get a decent bass signal is from the feeds to the door speakers. They get about 20-250 Hz in your configuration.

Check the FAQ for the stereo topics. Almost all the best threads are listed there.
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Old 11th February 2007
Bratva5 Bratva5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctrlz
The only place to get a decent bass signal is from the feeds to the door speakers. They get about 20-250 Hz in your configuration.

Check the FAQ for the stereo topics. Almost all the best threads are listed there.
Hold on, so the rear speakers are not full range (20Hz to 20KHz)? That's odd. I have an Aero with 13 speaker set up, and the rear does sound weak. I was thinking of adding a 10" sub, but still undesided on where I want to run the line from. What is that 30 amp power you're talking about, where is it, and is it fused?
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  #5  
Old 11th February 2007
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None of the speakers in any of our 9-3's (not sure about the new 07's though) are full range.

To run a sub in the 13/300 system you'll need to get power from the battery. The power that is available in the 150/7 system isused by Amp 2 in the 300/13 system.
Should be a rubber gromet where the steering wheel comes through that you can punch a hole in. Run the cable under the carpet to the rear. Use Fuse 17 for the remote turn on. Get a quality LOC and tap into your rear 6x9's for a signal. Hook it all up and you're golden.
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  #6  
Old 11th February 2007
Bratva5 Bratva5 is offline
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Thank you Diggs
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  #7  
Old 11th February 2007
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Bratva, you and flawseeker have different systems. The doors get different frequencies depending on whether or not AMP2 is present.

This is all in the FAQ.
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  #8  
Old 11th February 2007
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I just completed my 'upgrade' on the SAAB stock system (I have the 7 speaker system). Most info I got from this forum, the document from SABA and help also from CTRLZ (Thanks you guys!).

1. changed dash speakers to BA S35's (basically just replace the speakers and use back the same wires)
2. changed rear speakers to Infinity 6x9's (basically just replace the speakers and use back the same wires)
3. added amp and Orion sub in the boot (tapped signal from door speakers)

Step 1 improved the mid to highs compared to stock. Step 2 added a whole lot of bass and best I can still control it via the amp at the back. Step 3 proved to be the least useful as the signal going in there sounds like mid range only, so even I had tweeters on those 6x9s, I could not hear much of it.

All in all I am moderately happy with the setup now, though I would love to have more to play on the HIGHs in the dash. I prob might just add another pair of tweeters to see how it goes. Most of the stuff, except for the BA S35 which I got shipped from the US, were used stuff off internet auctions and very very cheap. I thought the Orion woofer was a steal, good condition, really tight bass, in enclosure.

Good luck!
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Old 13th February 2007
flawseeker flawseeker is offline
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Yep - there is a ton of info between the forum and the FAQ's. It seems like everyone is in favor of replacing the stock speakers. Sifting through everything, here is plan B:

Front dash
3.5" 4 ohm x2 - Infinity Reference 3012cf @ $40/pr
4" 4 ohm x1 - Infinity Reference 4012cf @ $48/pr

Front doors
6.5" 2 ohm x2 - Infinity Kappa 62.7i @ $84/pr

Rear deck
4" 4 ohm x2 - Infinity Reference 4012cf @ $48/pr

Later I am considering this upgrade:

Rear deck
6" x 9" 2 ohm x2 - Infinity Kappa 692.7i @ $110/pr
Alpine PDX-2.150 @ $275

A couple of questions concerning the 7-speaker upgrade:

1 - Are those prices reasonable?
2 - Is the center 4" worth the price of having to buy a pair?
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  #10  
Old 13th February 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flawseeker
2 - Is the center 4" worth the price of having to buy a pair?
I removed my center speaker with the intent of upgrading it. However, I like the sound better without it. I have the same Infinitys up front that you do.
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  #11  
Old 13th February 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeyjoe
I removed my center speaker with the intent of upgrading it. However, I like the sound better without it.
Has to be said that this - removing centre speaker - is a definite improvement. You actually notice that the music you are listening to is STEREO.
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  #12  
Old 13th February 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flawseeker
Yep - there is a ton of info between the forum and the FAQ's. It seems like everyone is in favor of replacing the stock speakers. Sifting through everything, here is plan B:

Front dash
3.5" 4 ohm x2 - Infinity Reference 3012cf @ $40/pr
4" 4 ohm x1 - Infinity Reference 4012cf @ $48/pr

Front doors
6.5" 2 ohm x2 - Infinity Kappa 62.7i @ $84/pr

Rear deck
4" 4 ohm x2 - Infinity Reference 4012cf @ $48/pr

Later I am considering this upgrade:

Rear deck
6" x 9" 2 ohm x2 - Infinity Kappa 692.7i @ $110/pr
Alpine PDX-2.150 @ $275

A couple of questions concerning the 7-speaker upgrade:

1 - Are those prices reasonable?
2 - Is the center 4" worth the price of having to buy a pair?
Sounds good, but a few items of note:

Not sure about the prices, but utilizing a 2 ohm speaker for the 6x9's is not needed. I'm willing to bet a 4 ohm version is cheaper and will give you the same result and be an easier load on your amp (not that it couldn't take it). Go with a 4 ohm 6x9 speaker.

I think you could find a cheaper amp. My Phoenix Gold (100Wx2) was ~$115 on eBay new. It also has an input for a remote gain knob if you want to turn up or down the 6x9's (not included w/ amp unfortunately, but capability is there.) Considering the source of the signal isn't all that great to begin with, no point in spending $$$ to amplify a not too great signal.
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  #13  
Old 14th February 2007
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You could take it one step further and research signal processors. I installed J & L Cleansweep which takes the analog signals and converts to digital. The response is flattened out considerably compared to the curve with the stock system. I finished with high end amps, speakers and sub and eliminated the center channel which is a joke in my opinion. Good luck!
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  #14  
Old 15th February 2007
flawseeker flawseeker is offline
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Stopped by BestBuy for some reason yesterday and saw that the Infinity Reference series is on close out to bring in this year's models and got what I think are good prices on the 3.5" and 4" replacements:

3.5" 4 ohm x2 - Infinity Reference 3012cf @ $35/pr
4" 4 ohm x1 - Infinity Reference 4012cf @ $45/pr

It was less than Amazon.com so I went with it.

I used the credit card trick to remove the front grills. That is definitely the easiest way to go. I popped out the right front 3.5" speaker and started pondering what to do with the connector. I haven't cut the connector from the speaker wire. I did remove the connector from the speaker though. I am wondering whether I should just cut the connector on the wire leading to the amp or solder the female connector to the new speaker?

Advice?

Hey saab93osu, I might consider that JL SSI if you describe how you wired it all. Looks like a nifty device.
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Old 15th February 2007
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The 3012cf tweeters stick up too far and the grill will hit them. Not a problem, though. Just break the plastic cover off the tweeter.

I'd just cut the connecter off the wiring and solder the connectors that came with the Infinitys to the factory wiring.
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  #16  
Old 15th February 2007
flawseeker flawseeker is offline
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A soldering iron near my Saab? I hadn't thought about that until now. Guess I'll solder the female connector to the Infinity speaker and then install it.
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  #17  
Old 15th February 2007
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wouldn't it be easier just to add a nice 10" sub with a decent amp in the trunk? running the power from the battery.. then just control your speakers to produce all the highs. it's a cheap solution, prevents damaging your speakers, and gives you great highs and a deep oomph for bass.

i'm assuming the indash stereo of the saab supports an output for bass? or maybe that's why you all keep having to run the bass line from the door speakers? if so, that sucks =(
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  #18  
Old 15th February 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfwill
wouldn't it be easier just to add a nice 10" sub with a decent amp in the trunk? running the power from the battery.. then just control your speakers to produce all the highs. it's a cheap solution, prevents damaging your speakers, and gives you great highs and a deep oomph for bass.

i'm assuming the indash stereo of the saab supports an output for bass? or maybe that's why you all keep having to run the bass line from the door speakers? if so, that sucks =(
In an ideal world that would be a good solution, unfortunately your assumptions are wrong. This system is complex, uses fibre optics, and processes the sound to factory determined frequencies prior to sending to the speakers. This is indeed why we all keep having to run the bass line from the door speakers.
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  #19  
Old 15th February 2007
flawseeker flawseeker is offline
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I just installed the 3.5" and 4" speakers. Here's a summary of what happened:

- I used a credit card or a stiff piece of cardboard to remove the speaker grills.

- I used a socket driver and a either torx or phillips head bits to remove screws holding speakers in place. Where that didn't fit, I used a pair of pliers to rotate the bit. A ratcheting box wrench would be good to grab the bits.

- I disconnected the center speaker. Yep, it sounds better without.

- The clips holding the rear and center speakers are tight and sharp. Watch yer fleshy bits.

- I removed the female connectors from the speakers and soldered on a short piece of speaker wire between them and the new speakers. I can quickly disconnect the speakers if necessary and even reuse these widgets if I upgrade again.

The sound is a little different. I little more detailed. Voices are more distinct. On a classical piece, the individual piano keys were more noticeable. Not that I am a audiophile, but those are the things that I noticed.

At the dealer this week the service guy tweaked the balance and produced more bass so I figured that the weak sound I was hearing is what everyone in these forums complains about. Tonight I placed my ears to each of the front door speakers and could only hear a faint hiss. I think that the amp for those speakers is dead. I'll have to call the dealer again and see what they can do. While they are looking at it, I'll hit them up for the TechII aux input enable
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  #20  
Old 16th February 2007
flawseeker flawseeker is offline
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I've decided to install an Infinity Basslink as per forum instructions. This is cost effective and seems to be easiest.

The forums describe how to route wires and all of that, but when it comes to getting power, I only see pictures of wires jabbed into the trunk fusebox. What are y'all using to physically connect the end of the wire to the fuse terminals?

Also, what is the grey metal box hanging bat-like on the underside of the rear deck? There appears to be two pairs of insulated copper wires, a pair of fiber optic cables, an antenna-like connector and another wire that is hard to describe.
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