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  #1  
Old 2nd November 2006
dtom4 dtom4 is offline
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Default Cleaning head

ok-so I have the head off my 93 16V for the gasket replacement. Its a chocolate mess and I sprayed the head down with brake cleaner. 3 of the piston tops are black with carbon as are the valves. Whats the best way to clean up all the crud before reinstalling everything? I've read about wire brushing but that sorta scares me. It doean't look too bad but I'd like to clean it up as much as possible. TIA
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  #2  
Old 3rd November 2006
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Have a look here for tips on cleaning the head:
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=64480

I have a 16v head gasket to do soon, and I'll be stripping the heasd to have it hot-tanked. That should properly clean everything off the head. You can leave the valve gear (minus cams) in place for the cleaning, although I may strip mine completely.

As for the piston tops, I use brake cleaner and a metal pot scrubber. Push some grease into the gap between the pistons and the cylinder bore, to catch junk and rubbish. Then clean out the grease with a rag.
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  #3  
Old 3rd November 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew
Have a look here for tips on cleaning the head:
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=64480

I have a 16v head gasket to do soon, and I'll be stripping the heasd to have it hot-tanked. That should properly clean everything off the head. You can leave the valve gear (minus cams) in place for the cleaning, although I may strip mine completely.

As for the piston tops, I use brake cleaner and a metal pot scrubber. Push some grease into the gap between the pistons and the cylinder bore, to catch junk and rubbish. Then clean out the grease with a rag.
Thanks Mathew. Great writeup. One question I forgot to ask, the new headgasket is somewhat different than the original. Some cooling passage s differ in shape. The new gasket has a few smaller circular passage openings where the original is the off oval shape of the engine passage. I thought I read somewhere the new gaskets are different and block some passages but would like to make sure. Seems like this would restrict coolant flow. Thanks again.
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  #4  
Old 3rd November 2006
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Yes, the newer gaskets are different. The head gasket design did change over the years.

If you bought a genuine Saab (Elring) gasket for your car's year, then you have nothing to worry about
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  #5  
Old 3rd November 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew
Yes, the newer gaskets are different. The head gasket design did change over the years.

If you bought a genuine Saab (Elring) gasket for your car's year, then you have nothing to worry about
Great! Yes its genuine Elring Thanks again.
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  #6  
Old 3rd November 2006
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I've used products like Lucas Fuel Suppliment and Injector Cleaner (or equivalent) to remove stuck glowplugs (caused by carbon build up) from my diesel engine. Let em soak overnight. I've also used it to clean piston domes on 2-cycle engines. But as Matthew stated, the best is hot tank.
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  #7  
Old 3rd November 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idiot_saabvant
I've used products like Lucas Fuel Suppliment and Injector Cleaner (or equivalent) to remove stuck glowplugs (caused by carbon build up) from my diesel engine. Let em soak overnight. I've also used it to clean piston domes on 2-cycle engines. But as Matthew stated, the best is hot tank.
Thanks for the tips. I had some time today to tackle it a bit and ended up doing as Mathew suggestted and cleaned it up with brake cleaner, fine sandpaper and brake cleaner.
I got the head back on but now I'm running into an issue with the chain tensioner. When I bolt it down it puts so much tension on the chain it binds the engine down so it can't be rotated by hand. I was trying to turn the engine to check tdc and realized the it was so tight the engine was locked up. I there an adjustment? There's a spring in the tensioner and the actual adjustment rod seems to be spring loaded but rachetted so it can only extend and not retract. Thanks again for everyones assistance.
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Old 3rd November 2006
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Oh dear, you did reset the tensioner before you bolted it back on didn't you?
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  #9  
Old 3rd November 2006
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there's a write up on adjusting the tension - can't recall who did it BUT they showed using a small screwdriver to disengage the rachette so the rod would retract - easing the tension - one of you young pups probably has a better memory than mine - one thing that sticks in my mind was that they shoved either a large screwdriver or other tool down to keep the tensioner from extending all the way out - the tip on the rachette (which I've now misspelled twice I believe) was further down the thread -
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  #10  
Old 3rd November 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveTheFolkie
there's a write up on adjusting the tension - can't recall who did it
This one?
http://www.saabcentral.com/techhelp/...ming_chain.php
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  #11  
Old 3rd November 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt88S
Oh dear, you did reset the tensioner before you bolted it back on didn't you?
Umm, whoops.....After posting I went back to the car and took the tensioner off again. Bentley and twinsaabs didn't mention anything about resetting the tensioner, only said to reinstall. Nothing broke and everything looked ok so I reset it and now everything seems ok. Hope there is no hidden damage.

The head is back on and I have it torqued to stage 2 at 59lbs. I tried going to the last step of an additional 1/4 turn but it is so tight I'm not sure it will make it. I got as far as about an 1/8 turn with my 2' breaker bar before giving up for the day and retorqued it back to 59. Gonna give it another shot this weekend.
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  #12  
Old 3rd November 2006
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Did you use a new chain? If you used the old, probably not much of a big deal at all.
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  #13  
Old 3rd November 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 900t
Did you use a new chain? If you used the old, probably not much of a big deal at all.
Yep, reused the old chain. Everything seems ok so I'll keep my fingers crossed. Thanks.
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  #14  
Old 3rd November 2006
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Oh don't worry then - the tensioner was out enough for the old chain and you just put it back in at the same extension I'm guessing, if it ain't broke don't worry about it
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  #15  
Old 4th November 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtom4
I tried going to the last step of an additional 1/4 turn but it is so tight I'm not sure it will make it. I got as far as about an 1/8 turn with my 2' breaker bar before giving up for the day and retorqued it back to 59. Gonna give it another shot this weekend.
The bolts will make it - the final 1/4 turn stage is very tight indeed. Dooable with a 2ft breaker bar though.
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  #16  
Old 4th November 2006
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I used a 1/2 inch drive ratchet with about a 1ft bar, with about a five foot length of heavy steel pipe (damn pipe weighed a good 25 kg!) and I only needed to push with my little finger
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