head bolts torque specs

[blue900s]

I know there are lots of posts on this issue, but could someone let me know what the torque specs are for the head bolts on the ng900s? I have a 95 2.3L.

[PMI]

The original torque specs were as follows:
(Haynes manual etc.)

Stage 1, 44 lb-ft
Stage 2, 59 lb-ft
Stage 3, 90 degrees

Saab issued new torque specs in 1996:
(Saab TSB 210-1714)

Stage 1, 30 lb-ft
Stage 2, 44 lb-ft
Stage 3, 90 degrees

New head bolt style used from mid-1997, on the right:



Example of E-16 torx socket:



Tightening sequence:

[earthworm]

I imagine these are dry torque specs.

It is very difficult to get both the bolts and threaded bores dry, one must use a good amount of air and a good quick drying solvent.

Also, the torque specs must only apply to new stretchable bolts; other-wise the final step of 90 degrees is sure to break previously used bolts - IMO....

[Leon]

Hey guys! Can you help me? I have saved each and every post on people having problems with their head bolts, but a question I have is, do I have the old style bolts on my 1996 2.3 liter engine? I do NOT want to do stage 3 with the "extra 90 or 1/4 turn" and snap the bolt in the head. I was under the assumption that that stage was for the newer bolts and should only be done if I'm actually replacing with the newer bolts. This leakage you see on my engine was found because I believe it was triggered by the cold's onset and I smelled a slight coolant burn one day. This is the normal spots where the leaks are found, right? My car has 175,000 miles on it and I have never had the engine overheat or anything like that, and had timely oil changes starting with castrol syntec full synthetic (10-30 in winter, and 10-40 in summer) motor oil every 3,500 miles. Please help if you can and know the proper answer! Thank you all!

[PMI]

Unless it was cleaned very recently, that is a very tiny amount of oil. If my engine were that dry in this area, I would be happy.

1996 models have the old style bolts.

According to the Saab TSB, which was issued in 1996, the revised torque specs apply toall cars from 1994, not just to cars with the new headbolts. Some people choose to interpret the changed specs to mean only cars made with the new bolts, but that is not what the Saab documentation calls for. Some mechanics and car owners do that, not the official Saab documentation.

The TSB is on a number of web sites, the file is usually called 210_1714_UTG2.pdf, or something similar.

[nocluetim]

Here's my write up when I did this job. I love to share it because it was one of the most enjoyable projects I've done.

[Leon]

Thank you PMI! So do you think I should worry about this small coolant leak? It does have 175,000 miles on it and running strong... And nocluetim, thank you for reference to your post! LOL, it was one of the many I reviewed and saved to my favorites! I guess I'll just try to the second stage, of 44 lb-ft, and see if they move any. It's just that extra 90 degrees that has me worried... Again, thank you for your replies!

[nocluetim]

Originally Posted by Leon

Thank you PMI! So do you think I should worry about this small coolant leak? It does have 175,000 miles on it and running strong... And nocluetim, thank you for reference to your post! LOL, it was one of the many I reviewed and saved to my favorites! I guess I'll just try to the second stage, of 44 lb-ft, and see if they move any. It's just that extra 90 degrees that has me worried... Again, thank you for your replies!

I've heard it's a bad idea to reuse the old bolts. You really don't want them to snap off in the head. If I were you I'd leave the ones you have alone for now, order the newer style, and replace them when you can.

[G96nt]

They're stretch-bolts, or torque to yield. they're designed to actually mangle the threads when torqued correctly. they're not a re-usable part.
In my eyes, if you're going to go through the process of re-doing the head bolts, you might as well buy ARPs and do it per their instructions.

They are re-usable, and allow for "over-tightening" which helps keep the head and block well-acquainted.

[Leon]

Hey! Are the ARP bolts the same as the ones on eeuroparts? They look the same and are only 3.60 each, with free shipping? Thanks.

[PMI]

Originally Posted by Leon

Thank you PMI! So do you think I should worry about this small coolant leak?

If there is no coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant, I don't think I would touch this engine. At most I would pull the valve cover, and check the #10 bolt with a torque wrench, to make sure it is not loose.

The normal symptom of an engine that can benefit from having the bolts re-torqued is 1) it is only a few years old, and 2) it is leaking oil.

If there is really coolant coming from the headgasket, and not from any of the other possible places, there is probably a tiny headgasket break. Chances of making it worse as as good as chances of making it better.

[Leon]

PMI, point well taken! No there is no oil in my coolant or anything like that. Just that small coolant leaking on the side which burns a little when the engine's hot. I think I will just leave it alone, making sure to monitor it if it gets any worse down the road. Thank you for your insight!

[G96nt]

My '99 had 118k on it, and by the time I got to tightening the bolts, the damage was done to the HG. it had to be replaced no matter what.
I don't see yours as being an issue. it would be leaking persistantly if it were.

[Leon]

Hey G96nt! So I'm assuming that you did have your HG replaced, but what type of symptoms were you having? IE the coolant mixing with the oil and vice versa? Oh yea, and another thing, on your avatar, what's MBC for life mean? LOL, just wondering. Thanks.

[G96nt]

Mine wept even after tightening 2-3 times. that's when I realized there was damage. when we pulled the gasket, it had pretty much deteriorated from time and the amount of water passing by it. luckily, it was just letting water out... not mixing anything.

MBC is manual boost controller.

It's like voldemort on this site. nobody speaks of it.