SaabCentral Forums banner

Buying a 3door 99T

12K views 86 replies 16 participants last post by  78ems 
#1 · (Edited)
Car has done 330000kms. It is a non runner, k-jet is not working properly. It is located 1400kms away so i will need to get some transport for it. It has got some rust as well, primarily where the windscreen meets the bonnet/dash.
Here are some pics, enjoy.
 
See less See more
1
#3 ·
First I will have to buy it obviously. Then a bit of modding( if it does not require a full on restoration right away, then I will keep it stock). I have some bits left over from my 900 projects. LH2.2 injection, leather seats and so on. I will even consider to fit an APC system. Maybe an H-engine as well, the list is endless. But I am a bit lazy so if get it to run I probably will start using it right away.
 
#7 ·
Nobody else wants it, and the owner is going to brake it for spares. There is plenty of better 90`s around in better condition that can be bought for peanuts.
Not in this colour though. I found two black 90`s in norway, but none in sweden!! and beleive me sweden has got plenty of 90`s.

I am going to use the doors(which will need repair anyway because uf rust), bonnet(which will also need some attention) heater system(which is completely broken on the turbo). Spindles,cv joints and axles because they are easier to service. Maybe part of the bulkhead if I want to fit a H-engine(have not decided yet). Perhaps the front seats as I have a pair of 9000 leather seats that will need a tilting mechanism.
 
#11 ·
That 90's got nice wheels, you should definitely swap them over, saying that though i do love the 90's frankenstein look, rear end of a 900 saloon and the front of a 99:D .

Stick a carlesson/airflow or an aero kit on the 90 and it would look sweet!
 
#16 ·
SaabsBreakDown said:
the only times i've seen a saab 90 was in the saab museum and at the Saab Development Center for Car Recycling. the one at SDCC had only been there for a few days and it was already half stripped. They jumped on that thing! those center consoles are really neat.
I now have 3 of those consoles as my `78 99T came with one fitted already(to my surprise) and i have also saved the one I bought for the `82 99GL i got rid of 10 years ago and the 90 also have one:D

I finally found some time and courage to try and start the 99T. I was told it would not start but I had to try anyway:eek: I checked the engine oil level and put in a brand new battery and started churning. In the end I had to give it 1/5 throttle to get it to start and run. As soon as it warmed up it idled very nicely on its own:cheesy: I suspect the AAV to be at fault, ideas anybody?

It was also smoking heavily. Not from the exhaust but from the enegine compartment. Lots of oil on the exhaust manifold. Main suspect is the valve cover gasket. I noticed a big braided hose below the manifold which I guess is the oil return from the turbo??? If this is faulty, is there enough oil pressure in this line to spray the manifold with oil??

I also found out that the rust at the windscreen probably looks worse than it actually is:)

There is no brakes at all. Maybe a brake pipe has rusted of and drained the system:cry: Have to hoist it in the air and have a look.
 
#17 ·
skilpadda said:
It was also smoking heavily. Not from the exhaust but from the enegine compartment. Lots of oil on the exhaust manifold. Main suspect is the valve cover gasket. I noticed a big braided hose below the manifold which I guess is the oil return from the turbo??? If this is faulty, is there enough oil pressure in this line to spray the manifold with oil??
.
congratultions! :)

it is usual for the cam cover gasket to leak onto the manifold and smoke a lot. I have never seen nor heard of a 99T turbo oil return leaking.

It is only a cork gasket and they go hard with age. Fit a new one and then run it for a while to burn all the oil off - it can take a long time!
 
#18 ·
Found out today that the AAV is working perfectly, so the problem has to be somewhere else. It seems to be starved of fuel until it warms up. Now the warm up regulator is the main suspect which is now unavailable from saab. I noticed that the N/A 99 has the same regulator from `76(0438140020) does anybody know which 900 models an years that have the same?

I topped up the cooling system with some fresh coolant, which it got rid of as soon as it warmed up:( Must be the lid on the expansion tank that dont hold pressure very well, as the engine was not particularly hot at the moment.
 
#21 ·
This place remanufacture/recon bosch items:

www.atpelectronics.co.uk

Should come to less than £800!. if you look round the site you may find some other stockists who are not in the UK?

I considered getting a WUR for my car but then stripped and cleaned out the one i had and tested it and it started working... though it didnt work on thursday morning so i am getting more tempted to swap it!
 
#22 ·
Any warm up regulator off of any car with CIS should work! :D

The best ones I have used came off of late 80's 900 8 valves, but I've heard of people getting adjustable ones from VW's and stuff. This regulator can seriously cause problems if its not working right!

Also check the fuel distributor to make sure the piston isn't sticky. You can do this just by playing with the plate when the fuel pump is jumped on (at the relay) and feel the counter-pressure the piston exerts on the plate. If its uneven or not there at all after you pull it up and down a few times then it could be a problem. Make sure to do this test quickly as you will be spraying fuel in your engine the whole time the plate is up and the pump is on.

The warm up regulator is supposed to make your car run rich when it is cold, so fuel starvation seems unlikely. When it is warmed up you should be able to blip the throttle plate all the way open with your hand and if the engine cuts out, its running too lean.

If the car has the lambda system, that could be the problem also.
 
#23 ·
I have now tried to start the car with a warm up regulator from an `87 900 and it seemed to solve most of the starting problems allthough it still acts as if its running a bit lean. That might be because the mixture has been adjusted to compensate for the non working WUR. Got a brand new WUR off ebay which is the correct one for my car:D
I have also fitted a new valve cover gasket hoping that it will cure some of the oil leaks.
The car has a 70 amp alternator:eek: isnt it supposed to have a 55 amp aternator?
 
#24 ·
I've got very similar cold-start and apparent lean running on my '78 too, a new WUR is on my shopping list. Does your lean running condition lessen substantially if you manually bridge the throttle load switch wires? (mine does)

Please keep us posted on how you progress with resolving this issue...
 
#26 ·
Mark_A said:
Please keep us posted on how you progress with resolving this issue...
I think everybody has mixture 'issues' at the moment!

Mine is fine until it gets warm and the WUR stops doing anything and i think it drops a touch too lean. Have yet to get the motivation (and the ability to get up early enough) to drive to work (the long way to give it long enough to play up!) with my laptop on the passenger seat logging it for me!.

My WOT switch doesnt work on mine either (but the boost pressure enrichment on the WUR does)
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top