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  #1  
Old 25th August 2006
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Default Rust Disolver

I may end up accidentally disolving the whole car , but i was wondering if this is any good?

While the car is off the road and in the dry i'd ideally like to remove as much of the rust as possible and get all the welding done, then respray and hopefully not have to revistit for many years to come.

Is there any better solutions to rust removal availiable on the market?

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.a...)%20US%20Quart
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  #2  
Old 25th August 2006
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I remember helping my mate use some rust treatment/dissovling stuff on his first car just after he'd just started driving (and i still couldnt).
It was a ford escort. After spending the morning paint bits of the boot we had to go out and buy some body filler and fibreglass to get rid of the holes
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  #3  
Old 25th August 2006
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TBH if it gets rid of all the rust and i spend the next 6 months patching it up i'll be happy, atleast after spending many on the engine the body will be sorted aswell, i'm of the mind at the moment that i may aswell strip the car down and get it all sorted rather than faffing about with a bit at a time, if i don;t sort it out once and for all i'll just end up going around in circles!
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Old 25th August 2006
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rust can be dealt with, i like the old cut and replace method. however rust can be put to "sleep" by encapsulating it with epoxy. propper coating thickness is essential, but not hard to achive.spraying works best. i use a product from ici/devoe called bar-rust 235.
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Old 25th August 2006
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Yeah if you seal the metal from oxygen goodbye rust... that's why cars have paint on them

I've tried some overpriced "rust converters" (it appears to just be phosphoric acid) that didn't do much of anything... I guess I'm old fashioned, but the grinder and sandpaper work best
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Old 25th August 2006
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900s came with some pretty good paint to start with,this is a given fact.

everyone on this forum seems to miss my point, there is no "easy fix" that works, you have to work to fight rust and win. with the right products you dont have to work yer *** off,but you still have to do all the steps in the right order.
rust reformers work the same way that epoxy does(encapsulation),but most people fail to follow through and finish the job.the epoxy that i use makes the job easier. if its good enough to prime submarines with,i think its good enough to to fight rust on my cars. but its primer.if you want to use it on something you want to look perfect you have to wet sand it and then apply the correct primer for the finnish coat you plan to use.sorry about the rant ,i guess if was easy everyone would do it.
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Old 6th October 2006
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I've just ordered a gallon of Eastwood Rust Dissolver so i'll let you all know how well it works or not, i'm hoping that i'll be able to get away with minimal grinding/sanding by using this stuff, hopefully it will leave the bare metal clean enough to weld/fill depending on the severity of the rot.

Fingers crossed it should be enough to treat my boot area and wheel arches.
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Old 6th October 2006
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As usual, 900t has it pegged. I've used the 'naval jelly'-type rust disolvers with mixed results -- it helps, but you've got to really work it. When you get the stuff, get a really good wire brush AND good rubber gloves -- it'll make things go much better.
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  #9  
Old 6th October 2006
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Si:

I'm curious as to your results. I also am in the process of welding my boot arches. One side of the car is in good condition, the other side requires welding. I have sanded and ground most surfaces down to exposed metal.

If I may ask some questions.

Are you using a MIG? If so wire type and MIG settings.

Type and gauge of metal "patches"?

I'm going to cover all with a marine grade primer, then spray a rubberized undercoating on. I'll also strenghten my A-arms while they are off.

Thank you for your input and advice.

Pierre
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  #10  
Old 6th October 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idiot_saabvant
Are you using a MIG? If so wire type and MIG settings.

Type and gauge of metal "patches"?
unless he has gone upmarket, Si is using a MIG (as i have for welding my cars).

use the mild steel wire and CO2 is the cheapest and easiest gas. You can get better welds with an argon mix but it can be hard work until you get better and it is hotter so is easier to blast holes if youre working with thin metal.

I use whatever i can get my hands on for patching material. Currently working though some washing machine sides! it is about 18 gauge i think. okay for bodywork.

For MIG settings, roughly, you want to get the setting as high as you can and the wire speed as low as you can to lay down a good weld that isnt popping holes through your metal.
you can judge a mig weld by how it sounds and looks when you are doing it. It shouldnt spit and crackle lots (too high or to much rust still about), pop holes (too high), leave long bits of wire sticking out (wire too fast) and should sound nice and smooth and even as you do it. You should be able to 'chase' the molten, hot glowy bit along where you are welding)

if you can see round the back of what you are welding you should see a nice glow which implies it is penetrating well.

hope that helps.
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  #11  
Old 6th October 2006
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Pretty much as Tom says but i rescently bought a 5kg roll of stainless steel wire so i'm using that and argon for all my welding, i've been doing some aluminium welding aswell which you need argon for.

You get a hotter weld with argon/less splatter but it you can very easily punch holes through, i've been doing alot of st steel tube welding which is a real PITA as they walls are pretty thin.

I'm still learning really, i've only just managed to get some good alum welds going, after about the 3rd go at it, steel welding is getting tydier, slowly!

If you can get the area you are welding clear of rust capping it off with fibre glass resin is a very good idea as it seals the bare metal completely, most paint will let moisture through so you are then relying on their rust inhibiters rather than stopping the moisture getting through in the first place.
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Old 6th October 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Si
You get a hotter weld with argon/less splatter but it you can very easily punch holes through, i've been doing alot of st steel tube welding which is a real PITA as they walls are pretty thin.

If you can get the area you are welding clear of rust capping it off with fibre glass resin is a very good idea as it seals the bare metal completely, most paint will let moisture through so you are then relying on their rust inhibiters rather than stopping the moisture getting through in the first place.
I tried argon once (shops had no CO2 left in stock!) for a landrover footwell and I think it ended up with more holes in that when it started!

Si - did you know that POR-15 paint can be used for as fibreglass resinny stuff? (says so on the tin). not tried it yet but could be useful along with fibreglass sheets to repair plastic spoilers as the repair will end up black!
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Old 6th October 2006
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I see yer all talking about patching, but I was hoping there'd still be a source for new panels somewhere. not just wings & arches but maybe a boot floor too?
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Old 6th October 2006
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Thanks Si and Tomarse! I do have a gas hok-up, but am unable to use it in my present location. So I'll look at a flux core wire. Thanks again, I'll post pictures of before and after, if I get a chance to work on it this weekend.

play hard and have fun.

ps
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  #15  
Old 6th October 2006
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Quote:
I see yer all talking about patching, but I was hoping there'd still be a source for new panels somewhere. not just wings & arches but maybe a boot floor too?
Well you can put me down for 4 arches and a boot floor if you do .

I'm going to get around to making up some bigger fibre glass wheel arch covers at some point (kinda 99 rally car'ish) so all i need to do to my arches is get rid of the rust and bodge/patch them up, i've tried to rebuild one that got flattened when i first bought the car about 3 times but it's a nighmare, so i think covering up is the way to go .
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Old 6th October 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean O
I see yer all talking about patching, but I was hoping there'd still be a source for new panels somewhere. not just wings & arches but maybe a boot floor too?
if you need a complete boot floor you probably have bigger problems elsewhere!
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Old 6th October 2006
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Hah, show me yours & I'll show ya mine no titchy witchy holes in my one, my holes are proper ones, man sized ones
well I found a site selling new steel wings for c900's, & you always used to be able to get pattern panels for older cars (including floor panels ) so what's happened?

http://bap.dominohosting.biz/bap/bap...20(02/79-10/93)

Last edited by Dean O; 6th October 2006 at 07:06 PM.
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  #18  
Old 11th November 2006
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I'm looking to buy some of this rust dissolver too, as I have a few rusty bits of metal (heat shields, trays etc) which I've removed for a head gasket job.

I'd like to leave a few bits to soak overnight to get rid of all the rust.

Si - have you used the product yet? Any thoughts?
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  #19  
Old 11th November 2006
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Not used it yet, but i'm gonna try and do some car stuff tomorrow, so i may start spraying some on the rusty patches.
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Old 11th November 2006
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I don't know about using epoxy for a rust sealer, its good but not that good, eventually it would come back to haunt you. I have heard people who swear POR-15 will seal it off though. I suppose it might, but anytime you have rust you want to get rid of it, sealing it off is a last ditch effort for when you can't get to it to get rid of it or just don't care. POR-15 would be my choice for that.
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