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  #1  
Old 26th June 2006
4th_Saab 4th_Saab is offline
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Default Central locking works when it's hot, but only then.

I have a 1992 US Spec 9000S. I've replaced several of the lock motors but my current central locking problem is intermittant. When the car has been sitting in the sun, the central locks work (FWIW, the 1992 cars did not have a keyless remote and one always has to use the key). If the car is moved out of the direct sun, or it cools down a bit, central locking doesn't work.

Any thoughts? (I searched and didn't come up with any help)

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 26th June 2006
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Last_straw Last_straw is offline
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There is a central locking control unit, under the dashboard, it's a black oblong shape. My central locking started working occasionally and I replced this with one from a scrap yard and it worked fine again.
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  #3  
Old 26th June 2006
4th_Saab 4th_Saab is offline
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Thanks!

You have to remove the top of the dash to gain access or find it from underneath?
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  #4  
Old 26th June 2006
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You find it from underneath, for a RHD car it's in the driver's footwell, LHD I don't know . you have to remove the cover and you should find it pretty easily, its held in place with a metal clip.
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  #5  
Old 27th June 2006
winddance winddance is offline
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If that doesn't work just pull the darn unit out and use the key. My quality of life improved greatly when did that.
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  #6  
Old 4th July 2006
4th_Saab 4th_Saab is offline
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Winddance...that's how it's behaving now. The '92 US models didn't have a keyless remote so central locking was activated by the key in the driver's door lock only. Right now, the car essentially has manual locks...unless the car has been sitting in the sun then the key locks/unlocks all 5 doors.

I guess the driver's door lock motor is working OK or part of it, because the alarm still arms when the key lock is locked...the system just gets confused from the control unit to the other 4 doors.
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  #7  
Old 5th July 2006
winddance winddance is offline
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I'll clarify: Pulling the central locking control unit out will shut off your power locks so you will then have only manual locks which will only be lockable manually inside the car or with the key. This really gets rid of the long term power lock problems that are bugging almost all saab owners.
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  #8  
Old 5th July 2006
HAL9000 HAL9000 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4th_Saab
Any thoughts? (I searched and didn't come up with any help)
Take the box out, remove the box cover, get a soldering iron and resolder each and every component there and you have a perfectly working central locking box until one of those soldering joints cracks again due to crappy printed circuit board laminate used in this cheap imitation of an electronics equipment.

The reason for working in hot but not in cold is bending of the board. In hot weather one of those soldering joints conducts properly but as the board bends in cold weather it does not anymore.

Why are some of the in car electronic devices constructed in such a bad way? Would it really have been so much more expensive to use proper materials like through hole plated FR4 laminate?
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  #9  
Old 5th July 2006
4th_Saab 4th_Saab is offline
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Thanks! That's a great idea!!!

On a similar subject...I've always wondered what the thinking was behind the DI cassette. I understand the efficiency of placing it where it is, but I never understood the logic of putting a circuit board loaded with power switching semiconductors on top of a hot engine...
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  #10  
Old 24th July 2006
4th_Saab 4th_Saab is offline
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OK...I found the silly ECM, it's essentially toward the firewall above the clutch and brake pedals (obscured by a piece of carpet attached under the dash). It's held in place by a single clip that releases when you pull down on it and then the module unplugs from the wiring harness.

I removed the circuit board from the case and resoldered the pads that weren't covered by a red conformal coating.

Plugging the module back in, the central locking still doesn't work. However, I also had some problems with the linkage in the rear door lock breaking so I was left with in operable central locking and a locked rear door that I couldn't unlock manually.

I removed the housing for the ECM (exposing the circuit board) and then plugged the ECM back in. Manually operating the relays (there are two) caused the doors to lock and unlock.

Could the driver's door lock motor be faulty? Is there a way to check it...continuity between the three leads in the locked or unlocked state or some other way? I'd prefer not to have to keep tearing the door apart if I don't have to...

I have a couple of spares, but I don't know if they're any good either...

Thanks for your continued assistance!!!
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Last edited by 4th_Saab; 24th July 2006 at 10:31 AM.
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  #11  
Old 4th August 2006
fn0w fn0w is offline
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Damn that central locking.... i have had apart all my doors at least once because of it. Earlier i had a problem with a relay plate (ECM) stuck in closed too, and now my rear right lock has started to malfunction

My car is falling to pieces, also because of those damn doors, totally rusting up. About time i look for another car. Don't know if im doing the right thing when I'm looking for a "non-saab"?
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  #12  
Old 4th August 2006
4th_Saab 4th_Saab is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fn0w
.... Don't know if im doing the right thing when I'm looking for a "non-saab"?
Probably...But then again, I always scream "never again" and then end up buying another one...

I'd say you probably got your use out of an '89 though...
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  #13  
Old 13th August 2006
4th_Saab 4th_Saab is offline
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Well, I finally fixed it...found a good used ECM and that did the trick.

Thanks to those who posted for their help!
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Former Saabs: '83 900 4 dr (Cherry Red...my first new car), '92 9000S, '96 9000CS, '02 9_3 SE.
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