Help! How to get the rotors off

[Rushtrack]

I know its elementary but this is my first attempt at doing my own brakes so bear with me.!

So i decided to save myself a whole bunch of money and change my pads myself. The rotors looked pretty rough so im taking them in tommorow to get them turned. I got the caliper off no problem, 4 bolts off and a metal hanger on each side to hold it up. So now the front of my car is up on blocks and im trying to get those big nuts off the rotors (im assuming this is how you take them off) but my wheels...or rotors rather keep turning so i cant get any torque to the nut. My car is in gear. why is the axel still turning?

[900t]

The rotors turn since the differential is there. Note the other side turns backwards as you turn one side.

Solution -> fit wheel on one side, drop it to the ground.

[900t]

Wait are you trying to turn the BIG nuts in the centre? No don't do that...

You need only remove the 10mm pin for the wheel there. Then it comes right off.

[Rushtrack]

Originally Posted by 900t

Wait are you trying to turn the BIG nuts in the centre? No don't do that...

You need only remove the 10mm pin for the wheel there. Then it comes right off.

Perfect! this is what i was looking for.

so the little pin that aligns the wheel is all thats holding them on now?

[Rushtrack]

Ok i removed the 10mm pin....

what about the torx screw on the oposite side? does that need to come out too?

[cdaly]

Sure does... You may need to hit it with a hammer to shock it before you try to loosen it.

[Rushtrack]

Originally Posted by cdaly

Sure does... You may need to hit it with a hammer to shock it before you try to loosen it.

good idea...Im letting it soak up some bolt breaker while i eat some dinner and then ill go give it a wack and try to turn it...when i tried it earlier it seemed like the torx wrench was ready to strip it it was so tight..

and why the hell do they make it so ****** shallow?



oh and what does that huge nut in the center of the rotor do? (I know im not susposed to turn it, 900T )

[woywitka]

you also have to remove the locating stud to get the rotor off. That is much easier as you can use a wrech, DON'T ROUND OFF THE 10MM nut, man what a mess that was (bad memories).

[Rushtrack]

Originally Posted by woywitka

you also have to remove the locating stud to get the rotor off. That is much easier as you can use a wrech, DON'T ROUND OFF THE 10MM nut, man what a mess that was (bad memories).

Its dark out now. Im stuck with that torx screw. Its pretty much stripped though not completely. Im going to try and easy-out it tomorrow.

not what i want to do....I was hoping to have the rotors turned and back in by this evening.....darn gremlins....

[cneglia]

Don't bother getting the rotors cut. Just buy new ones. They are not that expensive and the first time you hit the brakes hard on cut rotors they usually warp.

[Rushtrack]

Originally Posted by cneglia

Don't bother getting the rotors cut. Just buy new ones. They are not that expensive and the first time you hit the brakes hard on cut rotors they usually warp.

eeuroparts has them listed at about $70 for a pair of front rotors


a guy quoted me $20 to turn both......

I am a very poor college kid

[900t]

Rockauto has them at something stupid like 10 bucks apiece. They rape on shipping though.

Yes the torx screw must be removed. Many 900's are missing the torx screw by now

May I ask, what are you using to remove the torx screw? Obviously you need a proper size Torx (R) bit. But do you have the good kind, namely something like a socket that fits on the end of a 3/8ths ratchet? With mine I've never had a problem with them.

There are also on-car brake turning machines too yaknow. You stick it where the caliper is and start the engine.

[Rushtrack]

Originally Posted by 900t

Yes the torx screw must be removed. Many 900's are missing the torx screw by now

So is it a big deal if it doesnt have that screw? aka....if i destroy it pulling it out what would be the consequences of not putting one back in?

Originally Posted by 900t

May I ask, what are you using to remove the torx screw? Obviously you need a proper size Torx (R) bit. But do you have the good kind, namely something like a socket that fits on the end of a 3/8ths ratchet? With mine I've never had a problem with them.

Thats exactly the set up I have and its still stripping the screw. It seems as if the screw could have been made a hell of a lot deeper. The torx wrench doesnt go in that far at all.....stupid

Originally Posted by 900t

There are also on-car brake turning machines too yaknow. You stick it where the caliper is and start the engine.

Bleh..i wouldnt even begin to know where to find one...and besides the car is on blocks and the calipers are off and whatnot now....

[900t]

No you do not need the screw. Keep in mind you have four big bolts torqued up tight holding the disc flush to the hub - the pin and the torx bit are only to stop it from moving around when you remove the wheel.

[sleeper9kt]

drill out that annoying little shallow torx head screw and use a good, hardened steel ez-out. That has always worked for me. Then just put the 10mm locator pin when reinstalling the rotors and don't bother trying to find a new dished head torx...

And lastly, make sure you tighten your wheels bolts back on uniformly (90 ft-lbs at each lug, I believe).

edit: 900t beat me to it

[gorper]

Couple tips, in case someone comes along this thread in a search...

1. Yes, use penetrant.

2. Use a deep, 6-sided 10 mm socket to remove the pins.

3. For the torx bolts, I highly recommend an inexpensive impact driver. Home Despot or Sears have them for about $20. You put a torx bit in the driver, put the bit in the screw, and whack it with a 2 or 3 pound hammer. Works very well and is well worth the ~$20 (compared to the time/energy/frustration of dealing with a stripped torx).

Here's what I'm talking about:

http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00947641000

4. Put some anti-seize on the bolts when you button it all back up.

[Rushtrack]

Originally Posted by gorper

Couple tips, in case someone comes along this thread in a search...

2. Use a deep, 6-sided 10 mm socket to remove the pins.

It doesnt hurt to use a six sided socket on the 4 bolts to the caliper too. As ive learned on this little job; A six sided one will prevent alot of stripping in the long run....

[jameschong]

Originally Posted by Rushtrack

The rotors looked pretty rough so im taking them in tommorow to get them turned.

Are you talking about front or rear rotors? Where I am, the driven rotors (front in this case) need not be removed to be skimmed (you call it "turned").

The rotor skimmer grips the rotor while you throttle it and that's how it gets skimmed. Better than removing it, skimming it, and finding out the plane is off when it goes back in.

But you can't do it for the rear rotors....


James

[4saabstoomany]

what pins are you guys talking about? Locator pins? I've done my brake a million times and feel like a bit of a gooober.

[Rushtrack]

Originally Posted by 4saabstoomany

what pins are you guys talking about? Locator pins? I've done my brake a million times and feel like a bit of a gooober.

ya the locater pin. the pin that sticks out from the rotor and guides your wheel into place when you tighten down the lug nuts




I got them off this morning. got a bowl of cereal, headed out to the car with a drill and the easy out and in 3 minutes I had both off.

lord knows ill have another million questions when i try to put it all back together this afternoon...