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| Classic Saab 900 Workshop Classic Saab 900 (1979-1994) Technical Forum. |
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#1
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Give me some feedback on this event:
1987 8v non-turbo I've been attempting to solve a "rich running" problem. Read alot of threads about the area. I decided to pull the plug wires while at idle to see if a cylinder of not firing. Put on gloves and used a special pliers (insulated) to pull the wires from the plugs. Man, I barely got the first wire off the plug and there was sparks dancing all over the outside of the rubber plug boot, not to mention I was dancing while the high voltage pulse went through me! Wow, shocking. Anyway, I'd say this was not normal. I am thinking the plug wires are shot. I should be able to bare hand remove these and not get bit...right? There shouldn't be any voltage dancing on the outside of the boot-correct? I couldn't get the boot out very far for obvious reasons. Please let me know if I am on the right reason to replace the wires. What are the best plug wires to purchase? Original Saab (starts with a "B" manufacture) Thanks Pete |
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#2
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Electronic Ignition Systems run at much higher voltages than the old conventional systems. Exercise caution - they can be dangerous.
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#3
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I've had a HT lead shorting to the block, best off replacing plugs, leads, cap & rota as they are all reletively cheap.I think i got the bougicord ones which seem fine.
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Psytuned 1997 900 Sensonic coupe turbo |
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#4
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you should be able to remove leads by hand while it is running and not get shocked!
you could try running the car in the dark and see if you can see any sparking anywhere? |
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#5
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Bougicord! Again never had a similar issue to you.
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Turbo allows the valiant who has appeared at the wheel SAAB to gain momentum for 200 km/h Charm SAAB Turbo also that it to you not bad Porsche on it it is possible with speed of pregnant turtle feeling itself in full comfort which by the way our hero obeys a rudder reliably and confidently the truth management hardly will twirl a steering wheel by one finger uneasy. Without the hydraulic booster quickly enough perishes a steering shaft, but to change its hemorrhoids from the most fierce |
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#6
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I got an HT shock from the shorting king lead on set of Magnecor leads once. Now I just switch off the ignition before changing the leads!
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The path of my life is strewn with cowpats from the devil's own satanic herd |
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#7
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I always turn off the ignition before fiddling. The one exception is when making small adjustments to the dissy position when I use the vac capsule to turn it - 1) it acts as a slamm lever so can leave the clamp done up slightly so it doesn't move by itself and 2) it's earthed so I'm not going to xap myself
Whilst you're supposed to be able to touch ignition leads with the engine running, it only takes a bit of dirt to allow a little conduction leading to a zap.
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#8
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Removing spark plug wires will sometimes ruin your electronic ignition system. Voltages will increase to make the jump thus exceeding the safe limits of the electronics. Use a dummy spark plug grounded to the block to handle to electrical load of the particular lead you are experimenting.
No need for the insulated pliers. |
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#9
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Hey Juneau,
You solved that rich running problem yet? I have an '89 8v auto which up to now has had pretty bad MPG I'm now getting an extra 100 miles to a tank of fuel, than I was getting when I bought the car. With UK fuel prices, that's worth the time and investment (or will be in a year or so's time! |
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