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  #1  
Old 15th June 2006
Juneau Juneau is offline
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Default shocking experience

Give me some feedback on this event:
1987 8v non-turbo
I've been attempting to solve a "rich running" problem. Read alot of threads about the area. I decided to pull the plug wires while at idle to see if a cylinder of not firing. Put on gloves and used a special pliers (insulated) to pull the wires from the plugs. Man, I barely got the first wire off the plug and there was sparks dancing all over the outside of the rubber plug boot, not to mention I was dancing while the high voltage pulse went through me! Wow, shocking. Anyway, I'd say this was not normal. I am thinking the plug wires are shot. I should be able to bare hand remove these and not get bit...right? There shouldn't be any voltage dancing on the outside of the boot-correct? I couldn't get the boot out very far for obvious reasons.
Please let me know if I am on the right reason to replace the wires.
What are the best plug wires to purchase? Original Saab (starts with a "B" manufacture)
Thanks
Pete
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  #2  
Old 15th June 2006
Saab Driver Saab Driver is offline
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Default Electronic Ignition Sytems

Electronic Ignition Systems run at much higher voltages than the old conventional systems. Exercise caution - they can be dangerous.
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  #3  
Old 15th June 2006
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Default

I've had a HT lead shorting to the block, best off replacing plugs, leads, cap & rota as they are all reletively cheap.I think i got the bougicord ones which seem fine.
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  #4  
Old 15th June 2006
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Tomarse Tomarse is offline
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Default

you should be able to remove leads by hand while it is running and not get shocked!

you could try running the car in the dark and see if you can see any sparking anywhere?
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  #5  
Old 15th June 2006
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900t 900t is offline
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Default

Bougicord! Again never had a similar issue to you.
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  #6  
Old 10th July 2006
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Default

I got an HT shock from the shorting king lead on set of Magnecor leads once. Now I just switch off the ignition before changing the leads!
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  #7  
Old 10th July 2006
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Default

I always turn off the ignition before fiddling. The one exception is when making small adjustments to the dissy position when I use the vac capsule to turn it - 1) it acts as a slamm lever so can leave the clamp done up slightly so it doesn't move by itself and 2) it's earthed so I'm not going to xap myself

Whilst you're supposed to be able to touch ignition leads with the engine running, it only takes a bit of dirt to allow a little conduction leading to a zap.
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  #8  
Old 11th July 2006
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Default Did Juneau that you could ruin the electronics by removing the plug wire?

Removing spark plug wires will sometimes ruin your electronic ignition system. Voltages will increase to make the jump thus exceeding the safe limits of the electronics. Use a dummy spark plug grounded to the block to handle to electrical load of the particular lead you are experimenting.
No need for the insulated pliers.
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  #9  
Old 13th July 2006
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tonyw tonyw is offline
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Default

Hey Juneau,

You solved that rich running problem yet? I have an '89 8v auto which up to now has had pretty bad MPG , but that seems to have been fixed by replacing the thermo time switch. I had already replaced the cold start valve and warm-up regulator (after the usual tune up, plug change/gap check, oil change, air + oil filter change, tyre pressure increase, lead changes, etc), but they didn't improve the situation.

I'm now getting an extra 100 miles to a tank of fuel, than I was getting when I bought the car. With UK fuel prices, that's worth the time and investment (or will be in a year or so's time! ).
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