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  #1  
Old 16th February 2006
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jedi_master58 jedi_master58 is offline
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Post 9-5 Starter Replacement

Has anyone successfully change their starter motor? Where is it located and how might I go about to replace it?

Thanks

Last edited by jedi_master58; 16th February 2006 at 10:38 AM.
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  #2  
Old 16th February 2006
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Rear of the engine block, best accessed from below.
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  #3  
Old 18th February 2006
Nimisys Nimisys is offline
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disconnect negative battery cable.
go to upper radiator hose, follow it to the engine block, look straight down remove the 18mm bellhousing bolt that you see.
raise vehicle.
remove the two 13mm bolts holding the intake manifold strut
cut the zip tie around starter/solenoid
remove the 13mm nut holding the positive lead to the solenoid
remove the 10mm nut holding the switch lead to the solenoid
remove the 16mm nut at the bottom of the starter
pull the starter back and rotate it out between the cat, the axle and the right frame rail of the subframe.
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  #4  
Old 18th February 2006
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jedi_master58 jedi_master58 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nimisys
disconnect negative battery cable.
go to upper radiator hose, follow it to the engine block, look straight down remove the 18mm bellhousing bolt that you see.
raise vehicle.
remove the two 13mm bolts holding the intake manifold strut
cut the zip tie around starter/solenoid
remove the 13mm nut holding the positive lead to the solenoid
remove the 10mm nut holding the switch lead to the solenoid
remove the 16mm nut at the bottom of the starter
pull the starter back and rotate it out between the cat, the axle and the right frame rail of the subframe.
THANK!!!
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  #5  
Old 28th September 2008
neil1595 neil1595 is offline
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How involved is this job? Is the starter and all the bolts easily accessible? How long would this take for someone that is (moderately) mechanically inclined?

Thanks in Advance!
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  #6  
Old 28th September 2008
deanomyte deanomyte is offline
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I looked at it today, & ot looks like a pain in the ***.
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  #7  
Old 28th September 2008
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my88irocsaab95 my88irocsaab95 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neil1595
How involved is this job? Is the starter and all the bolts easily accessible? How long would this take for someone that is (moderately) mechanically inclined?

Thanks in Advance!

Im just guessin,3hrs,and 280+for labor at a saab dealership.
Its not hard, just takes time.
Id change the o/p switch also, if its original.
1-2 hrs topps, if you got the new starter with you.
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  #8  
Old 19th April 2009
Kbags Kbags is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nimisys View Post
disconnect negative battery cable.
go to upper radiator hose, follow it to the engine block, look straight down remove the 18mm bellhousing bolt that you see.
raise vehicle.
remove the two 13mm bolts holding the intake manifold strut
cut the zip tie around starter/solenoid
remove the 13mm nut holding the positive lead to the solenoid
remove the 10mm nut holding the switch lead to the solenoid
remove the 16mm nut at the bottom of the starter
pull the starter back and rotate it out between the cat, the axle and the right frame rail of the subframe.
Do you know if this is the same procedure for the 3.0L V6? I have a 2003 95 Arc Wagon (3.0L). From underneath I could easily remove the positive lead nut and the switch lead on the solenoid, along with the lower torx starter bolt. I could not find the upper torx starter bolt however. I just couldn't get to it, no matter how hard I tried.

Is the removal of the manifold strut and bellhousing bolts in the directions above, to simply give you access to the upper torx starter bold?

Thank you,
Keith
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  #9  
Old 23rd January 2012
Maarky Maarky is offline
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Default v-6 bolts on starter.

The 3.0 V-6 starter bolts both come out from the passenger side. The one on top of the starter is VERY hard to get to. Put a long extension and 3/8 ratchet from the bottom of the car by sliding along the top side of starter to the bolt and feeling with the socket until it is on the torx head. I am still trying tofigure out how to get the loose starter out of its' prison. It appears the manifold has to come off.

Fun an games with GM.
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  #10  
Old 12th May 2012
Cdn Saab 03 9-5 Linear Cdn Saab 03 9-5 Linear is offline
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Default Replacing Starter on 03 9-5 Linear, 2.3l, 4 cyl

disconnect negative battery cable.
go to upper radiator hose, follow it to the engine block, look straight down remove the 18mm bellhousing bolt that you see.
raise vehicle.
remove the two 13mm bolts holding the intake manifold strut
cut the zip tie around starter/solenoid
remove the 13mm nut holding the positive lead to the solenoid
remove the 10mm nut holding the switch lead to the solenoid
remove the 16mm nut at the bottom of the starter
pull the starter back and rotate it out between the cat, the axle and the right frame rail of the subframe.



All this is well and good and I did it all. Here is a bit more detail...

For those of you with large hands and arms this can be difficult. I have the bruises to prove it. Believe me, as a 200lb guy that frequents the gym and gets lots of exercise, you'll need some braun to loosen the 18mm bolt. Here is what I did...

1. Disconnected and removed battery
2. Disconnected Air Intake and shifted it. Much easier to work with this out of way. You don't want that to break.

3. Sprayed wd40 (penetrating spray) on 18mm bolt. This one can be a &*^%$ to get off. Most sockets sets do not have 16 or 18mm and you'll have to buy them. It is very hard to loosen (pull towards front of car). What I did is after I removed air intake and gingerly got the socket to fit on the 18mm bolt, moving the socket driver around with two fingers (which is located underneath CPS plug and etc with not much leeway for movement), I put the lug wrench handle over the socket driver for extra leverage and loosened. (if you don't have a longer handled socket wrench, there is the possiblity that you may crack it off without this extra leverage created by the lug wrench). It will tough to loosen but will crack when done. Because of limited movement, socket driver will only move one to two clicks at best. After I loosened this bolt (Not off yet), I raised the car.

4. I then proceeded with these steps...remove the two 13mm bolts holding the intake manifold strut
cut the zip tie around starter/solenoid
remove the 13mm nut holding the positive lead to the solenoid
remove the 10mm nut holding the switch lead to the solenoid
remove the 16mm nut at the bottom of the starter

(All from underneath the car). I was able to get my shop light to hang off the firewall to be able to see.

As I said for those of you that have average to large hands and arms, this is not easy. It all has to be done with one arm. To reach and further loosen the 18 mm bolt, used an 18mm chubby wrench (about 5 inches in length). To reach this 18mm bolt from underneath, and yes it was easier than from above, you will most likely be up to your armpit. This all takes patience and time - took me about 3 hours to job but half of that was getting this 18mm bolt off. Be prepared - wear crappy clothes, you'll be covered in grease.

5. Once all bolts off, starter taken out from below and new (used) one I got went in like a charm. I suggest that you afix the 13mm and 10 mm bolts back to wear the go before you put the replacement start in place for easier movement because it is hard to fasten 10mm bolt with unit in place because you cannot see it and are going by feel. I put the 18mm bolt on last because it takes a bit of time. Then I put on a new ziptie. Remember all of this can only be done with ONE hand and arm from underneath - have patience.

The connection of the new start takes about 20 minutes.

This DIY job will save you a 3-4 dealer/shop labour bill. I am in Canada, so used starter was $125 with warranty. Ebay has then for about $75. Needed to get car running again so, paid for part locally. Dealers would charge $400-600 for this job depending where you are.

Good luck and don't be afraid to use your vocabulary when doing this job. It is not that hard, it just takes time and some strength. Happy fixing.



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  #11  
Old 14th July 2014
xzl6b1 xzl6b1 is offline
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Default starter r and r

Great post very helpful (saved a lot of headaches locating the upper bolt, etc)
THANK YOU
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