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  #1  
Old 28th January 2006
Somberlain Somberlain is offline
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Question Water pump replacement

So what is an actual honest cost for this job? I've been quoted at $386, $232, had two places refuse to touch it and one rude ******* tell me "OH yeah, you have to remove the engine for that...."
I'm waiting until Monday to call a saab tech in Ann Arbor (not open weekends) and I'm hoping to get a more logical estimate from someone more famliar w/ the cars. I hate to say this, but this may be the end of the line for the car....$550 in the past month on it and close to $6000 total. We'll see...........

- erik-
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  #2  
Old 28th January 2006
16saabs 16saabs is offline
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its an easy fix. slacken the alternator belts, remove belts, undo 4 water pump disc bolts and it will literally fall off, undo the 6 water pump bolts, give it a tap and it will come free, clean the face of engine surface(old gasket residue) then get new pump and gasket and reverse the proceedure,experienced 1hr+ max inexperienced 2hrs. get yourself a bentley manual(even a haynes has this in) and it will show you and tell you almost everything,get a pump from "europarts" or "parts for saabs", pity your not in uk, i have a spare, cheap)
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  #3  
Old 11th February 2006
pznuttz pznuttz is offline
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dont despair yet all it is a $65 waterpump about 45minutes labor and you'll be back in business!! I did mine on the side of the road on my 900t 8v!! had the new pump in trunk. The 16v is abit more crammed in I'll say. Just dont give up!! on her yet.
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  #4  
Old 11th February 2006
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So here are the choices:
  1. spend $6000 and get the engine out
  2. Buy a book and a pump, DIY
  3. Find a servicer $150 max
  4. Go to a jy and remove one, a learning experience, goto 2
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  #5  
Old 11th February 2006
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@#$*(&#%@(#$&@*#)^$@$@^*!#$^!*!!!!! I wrote out this whole thing, it logged me out, and when I logged it in told me "Invalid Thread Specified" and when I hit back it was all gone! ARGH! OKAY, here we go again:



Do NOT EVER go back to the asshat who told you it was an engine-out job. The pump is right on top in your face once you unbolt the AC compressor (which is probably the hardest part of the whole thing), and even if you pull the engine you'll still have to pull the AC compressor, so basically he was talking out of his *** to try to rip you off.

If it were me, I'd buy/order the pump and gasket and do it myself. Wait, that IS what I did!

Autozone in Farmington Hills carries a pump which comes with the gasket. (If you're lucky, they may actually HAVE both of those. Don't get the remanufactured if you have ANY choice though)
Be very careful with the paper gasket, it rips very easily and will be formed in some awkward contorted manner from sitting in the box on their shelf for 30 years. Do NOT try to simply bend it flat. Instead, immerse it in water to let it become soft then lay it flat onto a clean surface.

I'll rewrite the How-To today or tomorrow for anyone who might be interested. I may just make it a companion to the haynes/bently...
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Last edited by ubermich; 11th February 2006 at 11:30 AM.
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  #6  
Old 11th February 2006
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ShadowWorks ShadowWorks is offline
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Has anybody posted a thread on how to remove and install a water pump? give the guy a link if so.


Its a simple job by all accounts, DIY it then pat yourselve on the back.
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  #7  
Old 11th February 2006
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Remove the motor?

That sounds like one of those garages that probably doesn’t even know what country Saabs come from…

I stopped for gas one day at this little small town garage and the guy pumping gas asked how did I like driving a German car….. so I guess even with all the technology there are still some people that should stick to changing points in their model T’s



“asshat” I like that one…..

Up around here we call them “hilljacks”, you know…. They same guys who’s wife is also his Aunt… or better yet, his sister, once removed……
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Old 11th February 2006
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Nah, hillbillies make much better mechanics than that ****er. A proper hillbilly would remove all the body panels before hoisting an engine... That is, unless his 6'7" 450lb cousin is around, then they simply have him stand on the roof and pull on a rope... But in any case, the extra charge would be one case of cheap beer.

In Texas you learn these things
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  #9  
Old 12th February 2006
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Bump, have you figured out which path you're going to take *cough*DIY*cough* yet?
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  #10  
Old 12th February 2006
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Jim Mesthene Jim Mesthene is offline
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Using air tools and a lot of experience, you can replace the pump in 17 minutes. No need to remove A/C. If you're real good, you can do it without loosening the belt; you have to unbolt the W/P pulley anyway.
Factory (warranty) flat rate used to be .8 hrs.
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Old 12th February 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Mesthene
Using air tools and a lot of experience, you can replace the pump in 17 minutes. No need to remove A/C. If you're real good, you can do it without loosening the belt; you have to unbolt the W/P pulley anyway.
Factory (warranty) flat rate used to be .8 hrs.
This is true, but if it's your first time doing it, removing the AC is by FAR the easier route. Else you really can't see what you're doing.
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  #12  
Old 12th February 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhich

That sounds like one of those garages that probably doesn’t even know what country Saabs come from…

I stopped for gas one day at this little small town garage and the guy pumping gas asked how did I like driving a German car….. so I guess even with all the technology there are still some people that should stick to changing points in their model T’s
Look at my ball(joints)... click to enlarge



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  #13  
Old 12th February 2006
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jonboy545 jonboy545 is offline
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LOL!!!


When I first got my 8V, the water pump honestly looked kind of intimidating. Then I just actually used some logic. Was a cake job.

Just make sure you clean the mating surfaces very very well.

One question I have for you guys... do ya'll use the blue silicone on your paper gaskets? I've heard some don't use RTV at ALL, some use the blue.
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  #14  
Old 13th February 2006
sbluejean sbluejean is offline
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Smile Blue RTV not required, ...but it helps.

Mine is a 900 Turbo DOHC. Had to change Water Pump and Head Gasket. The gasket that came with my $38.00 lifetime warranty water pump was made out of some strange paper material that came all bent and looped in the box and just rigid enough that when you tried to bend it into shape to place around the face of the pump,.. it cracked.

Bottom line, Blue RTV is the only thing that allowed me to mate the pump, gasket and block. Personally, I would never consider mating surfaces or joints connected with a car's cooling system without using some form of sealant. For now, Blue RTV seems to work the best for me.

All the best, enjoy.

Last edited by sbluejean; 13th February 2006 at 12:47 AM. Reason: Spelling
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  #15  
Old 13th February 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbluejean
Mine is a 900 Turbo DOHC. Had to change Water Pump and Head Gasket. The gasket that came with my $38.00 lifetime warranty water pump was made out of some strange paper material that came all bent and looped in the box and just rigid enough that when you tried to bend it into shape to place around the face of the pump,.. it cracked.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ubermich
Be very careful with the paper gasket, it rips very easily and will be formed in some awkward contorted manner from sitting in the box on their shelf for 30 years. Do NOT try to simply bend it flat. Instead, immerse it in water to let it become soft then lay it flat onto a clean surface.


But yeah, I learned that the hard way too...
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