axle boots

[screamingreen97]

i axle boots are shot, but the axles dont seem to be making any sounds like my mechanic said it would...i baught the boots for a non turbo for 14.99 a peice...can i just replace the boots or does the entire axle have to be replaced? if not, how do i replace the boots?

[9000freak]

So long as you have not gotton a spec of dirt inside the cv joint, there will be no need to replace the axle. As you said, as long as there is no sound when you turn, you havent harmed the cv joint. The directions are pretty straight forward: http://www.quasimotors.com/cv_boot_replacement.htm

You said that you have purcahsed the boots, however, it will be much better if you purchased the kit that comes with the boot, two hose clamps (one big and one small) and a tube of grease.

Also don't forget an extra tube of grease!!!

[Basre]

Hunt up the "Quasi Motors' Site (google) there you will find Photo instruction Follow it and with luck it will be a 3/4 hour adventure per side.
If experienced this could be a 20 min repair. G'luck.

[screamingreen97]

yea, it is the kit, comes with 2 clamps and grease

[bluebunny524]

My 92 had 2 torn boots. Who knows how long they were running it with torn boots. Since they weren't knocking I just did the boots. Several 1000miles later they still work great. My only advice is to find BETTER clamps, I like the screw type hose clamps. The clamps that come in the kits suck.

[AUSSIE JIM]

just do boots, carefull when using screw type clamps. don't over tighten and check that the screw bit on the clamp doesn't hit any thing. might look ok when the stub axle is hanging but soon as you drop it on the deck the screw bits can hit and rip the new boot off!!! don't ask me how i know this.

[bobbyd]

Originally Posted by AUSSIE JIM

just do boots, carefull when using screw type clamps. don't over tighten and check that the screw bit on the clamp doesn't hit any thing. might look ok when the stub axle is hanging but soon as you drop it on the deck the screw bits can hit and rip the new boot off!!! don't ask me how i know this.

. common sense my friend, that's what i lacked when i done the big end with a massive cable tie, clean off ,boot,grease lost,grease all over the place after i came back after a wee test run . ach well, you live and you learn

[chris_h]

It might be worth knowing the drive shaft nut is torqued to 210lbft, which is pretty tight. Unless you have a large breaker bar or a pneumatic impact wrench you will find it pretty difficult to get off. You can change the boots without taking this nut off by splitting the CV joint. When you take off the boot there is a large circlip holding the drive shaft in the CV joint, Using a set of circlip pliers just open the circlip and pull the drive shaft out. You nee to undo the 3 small bolts which connect the bottom ball joint to the wish bone first. This then allows you to pull the suspension strut (with the hub and CV joint) away from the drive shaft. It took 20 mins a side to do this. Just for information my boots lasted until 140,000miles before both splitting at the same time.

[Matthew]

Next weekend I'll be replacing both CV joint boots. 1994 9000 CSE, 195,000 miles.

The inner boots for the tripods appear to be free from visible cracks, but should I replace them anyway? They're not subject to the same degree of movement as the outer boots, but do they tend to need replacement at the same time as the outers?

I'd rather do just the outer CV joints.

[Marrk]

Just do the outer, the inner last for the lifetime of the car IMO, however when you pull the driveshaft off, which in my opinion is the best way to do it for accessibility you will find the inner joint either dry or the grease will pour out like liquid. So I recommend replacing the grease on the inner joint while you do the outer ones.