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| Classic Saab 900 Workshop Classic Saab 900 (1979-1994) Technical Forum. |
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#1
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I have a 900 8v T and I intend to store it for abouot 9 months under a tarpauling in a garage. I was wondering if anyone could recommend anything that i should do to the car (e.g over inflate tyres etc.) to attempt to keep the car in as best condition as possible so it needs little attention after 9 months.
I would appreciate a good long list and all the standard things one would think of automatically wouldn't apply to someone with my poor knowledge! Many thanks for all your help, aren't saab drivers friendly! |
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#2
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Some of it amounts to how far you are willing to go.
Be careful about just throwing a tarp over it, that can actually trap moisture and cause more problems than leaving it uncovered. Most car covers "breathe" -- allowing moisture to escape but keep the dust and such off. Definitely wash the car off first, let it dry thoroughly, and give it a good waxing. As for the garage -- make sure that it is going to be reasonably dry. If it is very damp, you are probably going to have problems. Also, critters are a real problem. Put a couple packs of rat poison under the vehicle and possibly set one or two up in the engine bay. A friend had a mouse rip the stuffing out of the seats and stuff it in several other places in the car for bedding... Other odds and ends: They sell dessicant (sp?) packs -- larger versions of those little silica gel packs you find in electronics and such -- to put in stored cars to keep them dry. Bring the vehicle up to operating temp to drive out as much moisture as possible. Then change the oil and top off the gas (petrol). Old oil can be corrosive if it sits and a full gas tank keeps moist air from accumulating. Add a fuel stabilizer to the gas tank to keep it from going stale. Inflate tires to maximum on sidewall and get the car off the tires. Use jackstands if possible. If using cinder blocks, put a block of wood between the cinder block and the car. If it will be stored long, consider taking the tires off the car -- that way you don't have to lift it as high (suspension droop). Pull the spark plugs and squirt a few tablespoons of light oil (Marvel Mystery Oil is good) into each cylinder. With the plugs out, turn the engine over briefly to lubricate the cylinder walls and then put the spark plugs back in. Use a rubber band a piece of thin rubber (a piece from an inner tube works well) to cover the end of the exhaust and the air intake on the car to limit moisture getting in from either end. This would be a good start. |
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#3
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Assuming it's a manual gearbox, I've read it is a good idea to keep the clutch pedal depressed to stop the clutch from seizing up. You can use a bit of wood to do this.
Simon. |
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#4
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I had not heard about the clutch issue before, but I could see it being a problem. I guess the question is whether you want to store it that long with the system under tension...
I am still new to Saabs... Is the clutch system a linkage or hydraulic? |
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#5
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If it's right hand drive there is a linkage going to the hydraulic system on the left hand side of the car!
Simon. _________________ 1984 900T16S 1991 900i 16V Convertible <font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Simon on Aug 29, 2001 9:22pm ]</font> |
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#6
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not to knowledgeable about this topic, although my friend stores his 1984 mustang convertable in the winters here in wisconsin. is there anything to do after you bring the car out of storage?
i would think that there should be something done, not just take it off the blocks and drive it 80mph down the motorway after 9 months...
__________________
A-Dawg is 6'2", caring, has a good sense of humor, and likes long drives in his 1989 900 Turbo along the highway. |
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#7
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Typically, you undo all the things that you did to store it! :wink:
Obviously, get the tires back on and to the proper inflation, remove any seals on intake and exhaust you may have put on, that sort of thing. I'd look everything over. Make sure that the mice have not made nests anywhere. Make sure the battery is properly charged. Actually, that is one thing that I did not mention before for storing it --> You probably want to disconnect the battery. You can also get "float" chargers -- not a trickle charger. I have one by Battery Tender for my motorcycle and leave the battery on it for about four months through the winter. Some say to change the oil again so that it is fresh. Also, pull the spark plug wires (so that it doesn't start) and turn the engine over a few times to get things re-lubed. Similarly, some people would change the brake fluid since it tends to accumulate moisture when it sits... Take it for an easy drive to make sure that things feel right, but drive it long enough to get things up to operating temperature. Take it back and go over everything again. As I said, I store my motorcycle for about four months each winter. Every Spring I go over everything very carefully. Better to be cautious than end up with a problem out on the road. |
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#8
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To Simon,
If the clutch system is hydraulic (as you say), I am not sure that I would want to store it under pressure. Typically you want to store hydraulic systems at rest. I have served some time doing heavy equipment repair and base my comments on that experience. I do agree that you could have problems with the clutch seizing. I'm just not sure whether you would be in for more problems by keeping the system under pressure. On a related note, I would not set the parking brake but would rather block the wheels (if it is not up on jackstands). I have heard of the brakes seizing up... |
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#9
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Storing your car for NINE months isn't storing Mate.. it's Parking !!
just drive it into your garage, add some fuel stabilizer, and worry about your battery charge. The thing probably sat longer waiting for some poor sod to buy it when it was new. |
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#10
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yes, but when it was new it was new. now it might have 10 years or so on it, which means the mechanical parts should be respected.
__________________
A-Dawg is 6'2", caring, has a good sense of humor, and likes long drives in his 1989 900 Turbo along the highway. |
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